Cooling fans dont work wont shift i hook a test light to ground and hot it shows ground loss of

Hooking up a scan tool an checking for codes would be the first place to start . Then viewing a wiring diagram to see what all is involved in the cooling fans electrical circuit's . Then testing the electrical circuit with a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter is how to find the problem . More then likely the cooling fan that's not working is bad an needs to be replaced .

op
why not post symptoms first and not a barrage of parts.
must we decode that to a symptom,. kinda hard right.

I will not guess. what is wrong, nor what is not working on your car. now what fans you are talking about, up to 4 fans on cars.

cab blower fan (wild guess blower is ok) and so is HVAC, ?
radiator fans
Condenser fan.

my wild guess to , engine over heats?????????
if yes, the scan it first. no not last FIRST.
it dont work like you think its not a 1988 Samurai.
sorry,
on modern cars, they got smarter, the engine goes
gee the PCM knows water temp why have a fan temp regulator.
hark , now it dont. (saves cash on useless parts)
but has a relay , (well until you have my car and the relay is now 100% electronic, called a huge transistor)
we've used this tech in industry for years, but car makers just learning how still.
i digress. but evolution and history helps diagnosis.
what is there?

Ill look for you, ive posted this 100s of times
the book is 4 bucks to see online. the real deal
lets look now.
XL-7 (the dash matters big time)
answering for , overheats engine, and fans on RAD dead.
(some are staged, PCM brains... now. and also chain ops based on if A/C is on or not) facts.
first I see 2 fans... ok.
the next page shows nice block diagram of the fan system
yup, NOT Simple.

ill post those words for you.
"The engine cooling fan system consists of 2 electrical cooling fans and 3 fan relays. The relays are arranged in a series/parallel configuration that allows the engine control module (ECM) to operate both fans together at low or high speeds. The cooling fans receive positive voltage from the cooling fan relays which receive battery positive voltage from the underhood fuse block.
During low speed operation, the ECM supplies the ground path for the low speed cooling fan relay which is fan 1 relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the low speed fan relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the fan 1 fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the left cooling fan. The ground path for the left cooling fan is through the series/parallel relay which is fan 2 relay, and the right cooling fan. The result is a series circuit with both fans running at low speed.
During high speed operation the ECM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. The ECM grounds the high speed fan relay, which is fan 3 relay, and the series/parallel relay, which is fan 2 relay through the high speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the series/parallel relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and provides a ground path for the left cooling fan. At the same time the high speed fan relay coil is energized closing the relay contacts and provides battery positive voltage from the fan 2 fuse 1 on the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the right cooling fan. During high speed fan operation, both engine cooling fans have their own ground path. The result is a parallel circuit with both fans running at high speed.
When the request for fan activation is withdrawn, the fan may not turn OFF until the ignition switch is moved to the OFF position or the vehicle speed exceeds approximately 16 km/h (10 mph). This is to prevent a fan from cycling ON and OFF excessively at idle.
end quote.

i bet you didnt scan it , like 99.9 % of all posters here dont.
DTC Descriptors
DTC P0480: Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit
DTC P0481: Cooling Fan Relay 2 Control Circuit
DTC P0691: Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0692: Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit High Voltage
DTC P0693: Cooling Fan Relay 2 Control Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0694: Cooling Fan Relay 2 Control Circuit High Voltage
Diagnostic Fault Information

is the ECT showing overheat, yes no?
if yes, it must operate a fan or 2.
the book even covers all tests for fans dead, in a large truth table.
both the FSM and alldata.com have that, its no secret ,its published in 4 major places.

lets back up
if the engine coolant is low (no that side tank the engine and rad)
the ECT will lie. if that happens the fans may not come one
that is because the ECT is useless measuring air, for water.
that water must touch ECT for ECT to work.
this is FIRST
then scan the ECT does it show overheating, IT must if it IS overheating. fix that next if it lies to you,(IR gun in hand)

The system has staged fans.
i cant find the trip points in my crappyy online pages.
but is like 225f then 250f trips. is my guess...
about. if the engine over heats, check fuses first then scan it.
it will simply tell you why its bad.
eg, fan1 output dead.
or if you hot wire a fan and its dead, then it is.
(only on cars with non modulated fans,,hot wire them,else not.)

now the link to the 4 buck real book.
the non dash XL7 (my guess) you this pick yourself... cant see car.
https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/10182-2007-xl7-service-manual.aspx

this is how it really works
the ECU has software that decide trip points for fans.
hard coded, this is. based on how hot it is and if A/C is on not.
its way smarter than 1988 and better.
the DTC errors can see an open line, shorted to ground or stuck 12v.(runs all time error)
(tells you relay is good or not)

no scanner no joy , sorry, tis a fact.....

Did you check the cooling fan relay's ? Your vehicle has three of them . Free wiring diagrams at http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on engine , then under subsystem click on cooling fans . Then click the search button then the blue link . Learning how the fans work then testing the electrical circuits is how we as Technician solve problems like this . We don't ask if anyone has this issue an knows how to solve it . Someone else's fix maybe different from what it will take to fix yours .
The cooling fan's are computer controlled ,by the PCM - powertrain control module . When the engine coolant temp. gets hot enough the PCM see's this through the use of a coolant temp. sensor . When it reaches 212 degress the PCM energizes relay # 1 sending B+ voltage through both cooling fans to ground causing low speed .
Relay Driven Dual Cooling Fan Diagnostics

if engine at long stand still,the engine temperature will rise about 190 degrees the cooling fan suppose to automaticaly turn on when coolant temperature sensor get hot it cause its resistance decrease causing pcm to send power to coolant fan relays and cooling fans, when you turn on AC the cooling fans suppose to turn on to cool down AC CONDENSOR, IF NOT AC WONT WORK COOLING FAN COOLS DOWN REFRIGERANT SO IT CAN RECYCLE THROUGH THE SYSTEM AGAIN.your cooling is suppose to turn on when engine at a sit still if vechicle not moving as coolant temperature rises at a set point the cooling fans will turn on cool down engine.cooling fans dont turn on when you first cold stsrt vechicle unless you have AC SWITCH ON.if cooling fans dont turn on when vechicle at a long stand still or moving along slow traffic.if coolant temperature sensor been replaced and fuses and relays okay have dealership check see if pcm driver circuit working faulty pcm will cause cooling fans not to turn on.

connection to radiator fan switch could be bad.

If I take out the connector from the fan switch (thermo switch/fan control switch) that light acts just as you described.
So check the fuse box on top of the battery, take out the fuses and make sure nothing is melted. Now check if you are getting power to the switch connector. red wire is hot wire, 2 striped wires can be used as ground. Make use you get around 12 volts, not mV.

if you got no power there then try checking continuity in the wiring... you need power there to make thing work :D

learning from experiencing.

HOT WIRE COOLING FAN USING JUMPER WIRES TO BATTERY.IF FAN DONT RUN WHEN HOT WIRED FAN MOTOR BAD NEED REPLACING. IF FAN RUN WHEN HOT WIRED. CHECK COOLING FAN FUSE AND RELAY.IF ALL IS GOOD.YOUR ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR NOT WORKING.IT CONTROL COOLING FAN AT SET TEMPERATURE IF SENSOR OPEN OR FAULTY THE COOLING FAN WONT TURN ON.CHECK COOLING FAN WIRES FOR DAMAGE.IF ALL STILL CHECK OUT GOOD HAVE VECHICLE SCANNED FOR PCM FAULT.IF IT FAILS NO COOLING FAN WONT TURN ON.

You sound pretty good at this
Go to a local repair shop and have
them print out a wiring diagram
They will have to be successful enough
to subcribe to All Data,Mitchell,etc

Chevy dealer says will not come on until temperature reaches 219 f

First are you sure the fans are good. Unplug the fans and hook directly to the battery and see if they turn. One fan is for the engine and should come on when the car gets hot. The other generally comes on when the a/c system is on. If both fans work hooked directly to the battery they are good go to the cooling fan switch or temperature switch (same thing different name) and make sure it is good. This tells the fan to kick on when the car gets hot. The other one kicks on when a switch on the a/c system tells it to kick on. Check and make sure you are getting power to the fans. Get a test light and ground it to a good ground on the car and probe the plugins going to the fans and insure there is power coming to them when the car is running. If no power fuse is bad or the sending unit is bad.

Check for a fuse that is blown first.Then look for a cooling fan relay.Check the relay to see if it will turn on the fan,by using a test light.Clip the end on the test light to a good ground,maybe the ground on the battery.While the car is running,pull the fan relay out just a little so you can touch the prongs on the relay with the test light pointed end.When you touch the right prong,the fan will come on.The test light is actually grounding the relay.This is the safe way to activate the relay without damaging the relay circuit.If the relay clicks,and the fan comes on,replace the coolant sensor.If the fan does not come on,and the relay clicks,then run a hot wire to the positive wire on the fan to see if it will work.If you don`t get the fan to run that way,and you are sure the fan is hooked up correctly,then replace the cooling fan.If you cannot get the relay to click,and the fan is good(because you have checked it)replace the relay.If I can help,let me know.