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I have a noise in front of engine near valves when running, 12HP what could cause this ?

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  • onewalker Sep 10, 2009

    it is a tapping to knocking noise that varies depending on engine rpm,s

  • bozcro
    bozcro May 11, 2010

    what kind of noise?

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  • Master
  • 867 Answers

If engine is not smoking to much, valves and piston rings must be alright, but it could be the cam or connecting rod. but before taking the engine apart, as it may be sticky valves or piston rings, buy a can of engine tune up from automotive store (4$), one that says it removes gum build up in engine. only use half the can, run engine for half hour, drain and place in new oil. and first thing to try would be premium fuel, because low octane will cause ping in some engines

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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What is causing loud knocking?


If you went off the road and the snow jammed into the engine compartment look for something bent and striking when the engine is on. If you find nothing bent or broken and the noise is coming from inside the engine you may have a bent valve or connecting rod. When an engine is abruptly stopped thing can get damaged. Take a wood shaft like a broom handle and place it near the bottom of the engine when running on the block and place you hand on the end of it and then place your ear on your hand and lesion for a knock. If in the bottom could be a bent connecting rod or also called a piston rod. If noise is in the top more likely and bent valve and the engine may run rough. If you not sure have a mechanic lesion to it. You can consult your repair manual for further test. Good luck.

Mar 06, 2016 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

My elantra 2013 has developed a clicking noise under the hood.


It could be as simple as a frayed belt hitting as the engine is turning.

First visually inspect the belt.

Then get someone to assist you and rev the car while you listen for the noise under the hood.

A long screwdriver is sometimes helpful if you touch parts of the engine and components while the engine is running (carefully) to see if you can identify where the ticking is coming from.

If it's a valve you ought to be able to hear/feel it through the long screwdriver when you touch the engine valve cover.

make sure engine fluids are properly filled.

also, sometimes it can be a fan component that ticks even after the car shuts off.

Feb 21, 2015 | 2012 Hyundai Elantra

2 Answers

What is causing my 12hp kohler engine to backfire and quit running when given any throttle?


That sounds like either bad (old) gasoline or the carburetor needs cleaning very badly - it's running very lean.

Jul 19, 2014 | Kohler Engine 12hp Cs Command Horizontal...

2 Answers

2002 Toyota Echo running louder


YOU GOT IT. I'm sure the oil pressure went low when the car was on ramps causing a CE light. The louder noise poss wrong belt or exhaust leak!?

Mar 09, 2017 | 2002 Toyota ECHO

2 Answers

2005 chrysler 300-can hear the engine noises when the ride used to be more quiet?


Hi there:
Check this information about "engine noses"...

ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Jul 19, 2012 | 2006 Chrysler 300

1 Answer

2004 Cavalier Engine Noise


Hi there:Check this information about "engine noses"...

ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.

First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.

COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.

VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.

To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).

On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.

DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.

RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.

Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.

Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.

ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day

Mar 02, 2012 | 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier

2 Answers

Noisy valves not lifters on 1997 ford v6 econoline van


you could have carbon build up on the back of the valves that is bad enough that it could cause a noise like pre-ignition and if its bad enough it could cause a problem.it usually will cause the engine to sometimes run bad or have hard starting when the engine is cold as the carbon soaks up the gas until it can`t assorb any more.this can be possibly repaired by having a fuel system service that runs a chemical through the motor by use of a machine..it could also be bad valve guides or valve springs allowing the valve to not move up and down straight but on an angle.kind of like holding a pencil in your hand with some resitance and moving it up and down and then lossening your grip on the pencil and doing the same thing it won`t try to travel straight.

Feb 24, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My car is making a clicking noise in the front near the belt, and the check engine light came on. what could this be?


Clicking noise could be a sticking lifter or a rod knock both of which can be caused by loss of oil flow to critical engine parts requiring constant lubrication to minimize friction. Do not drive the car any further until you can get it into a shop to have it checked out and repaired otherwise you run the risk of starving the engine of oil and causing a catastrophic failure requiring a major rebuild or a new engine both of which can run into the thousands of dollars.

May 29, 2011 | 2005 Mazda 6

2 Answers

12hp brigg & stratton engine gas mixing with oil in engine block..when start engine runs high rpm can not idle & look like gas come out carb air cleaner overflows & flood out & stop engine...


Sounds to me like the float needle valve in the carb is leaking. This will cause fuel to over flow out of carb, and will even get into the engine oil. Check to be sure that float is not got gas in it the can go bad. Also check float adjustment. Check needle and seat very carefully for dirt or wear. Just the slightest bit of dirt or wear can cause it to leak. Hope this helps.

Sep 17, 2010 | Parks Optical 13.5hp Briggs And Stratton...

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