Question about Refrigerators
It sounds like you are on the right track.
Most compact and modular units work in similar fashion. When the thermostat senses the chamber is cold (usually 18 to 19°F) is assumes any water in the mold is frozen and starts the heating/ejection/refill cycle. If you unit is attempting to rotate...take a hair drier to the bottom of hte mold until the cubes release. Let the unit rotate and refill. If it tries to rotate again after the water freezes but the mold does not warm up...bad heating element or bad electrical contacts for that cicuit. If it does not try to rotate again you may have a bad thermostat. Both parts may be hard to find to replace and it is usually easier just to replace the entire module.
As for the test points, if you have a multimeter you can check the following: (looking for AC volts)
120-volts between L and N means the unit has power from your freezer.
120-volts between H and N means the heater has power
120-volts between V and N means the water valve has power
120-volrts between M and N means the motor has power.
If you have your icemaker removed (disconnect power first) and have access to the heater power connections, you can test it for resistance with an ohm-meter. It read between 60 to 80 ohms. If not, it is bad. I hope this helps.
PS: there is a nice description of operation and troubleshooting at http://www.american-appliance.com/old_site/service_pages/Ice_Maker/modualimdiag.htm
Posted on Sep 10, 2009
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