Question about Maytag Dryers

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Maytag Dryer element melted after replacing thermal fuse.

I have a Maytag Dryer model HYE3658AYW. Recently it just quit altogether, would not function, no light, nothing. After troubleshooting I determined it was the thermal fuse (I disconnected the leads and shorted them with an alligator clip lead and the dryer started right up). So I replaced that and the hi-limit thermostat. It started right up but within 10 seconds or so the heating element melted right where the wires come out of the ceramic block - the dryer kept running but obviously no heat. So... is it possible I put the wires back on the fuse or thermostat wrong ? Does the fact it kept running after the element melted indicate I did put the wires back on correctly ? Or was I possibly not gentle enough with the heating element and it gave up the ghost (back to the parts house) ? Not sure which way to go here - I fear if something is wired wrong I may just melt a new heating element. Please advise.

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  • Scott Howard Sep 10, 2009

    During test with fuse circuit bypassed, if heating element was shorted seems like that element would have blown/melted then but it didn't. Aren't those elements a bit on the fragile side ? Is it possible I bumped it around moving it in and out while replacing the fuse ? Do the 2 wires going into the fuse and the thermostat matter which contact they are plugged into (still wondering of that's where the problem is) ?

  • Scott Howard Sep 10, 2009

    "did the element actually melt i.e. molten metal?"

    No, not exactly, the wires that go into the ceramic post did melt I suppose, since there is now a gap where they used to be, I have burned pieces of wire down in the bottom as a result.

    I was none too gentle with the element getting it out the first time, could that be what introduced the weak and therefore Hot spot as you said ?

    By "Re-String" you mean a reman part ?

    So the ceramic post won't be part of the replacement unit ?

    Not sure I understand this statement:

    "...make sure your
    neutral connection is very solid and secure that breaks and it wont
    heat correctly or at all"

    I understand getting a good connection... you mean if I don't it will possibly do again what already happened - ie, break/melt/vanish, etc



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  • Maytag Master
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Did the element actually melt i.e. molten metal? it sounds like it had a "hot-Spot" in that area, also you could have had a high resistance connection there and that could be your source of "melt down", there is NO way you could wire it wrong it either will work or it won't, when you put in your new element make sure if its a "Re-String" element that you wire the nichrome coils in that you DO NOT get any SHARP bends anywhere especially at your connections at the ceramic posts because this can result in a "Hot-Spot" connection, and also make sure your neutral connection is very solid and secure that breaks and it wont heat correctly or at all, there should be a wiring diagram somewhere on the machine anyway.

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

  • daniel  hendrickson
    daniel hendrickson Sep 10, 2009

    A "Re-String " kit is two coils of nichrome wire made for your particular size-make dryer i.e. 3,000watt
    4500watt or 5,000watts, the posts and ceramics normally come with the kit and you restring it by hand, its usually a round pan type w/many small insulators to feed wires thru,the others are rectangular box type elements, as for the neutral line, its the one that is connected between the two nichrome coils, its for your return current balance it is normally in between the two hot wires on the assembly and is usually white in color per the (N.E.C.) nat electrical code the other two hot wires 120volts each(240)volts can be almost any other colors i.e. general electric is purple and orange per companies discression for the hot conductors, call appliance pros or visit their web-site w/your model,make,etc. they will have and know what all you need for repairs and ship time and price is great


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  • Maytag Master
  • 19,396 Answers

The heating element may have been "plugged" to ground. That will meen that heating element staid always on because of a contact to ground, either on element contacts, or at a different point in wiring harness.

This caused the thermal fuse to blow.
The dryer kept working with element blown because the contact was keeping the circuit close.

Replace element, and if needed also element wiring harness. Inspect wiring harness from element to temp sensor, and to timer control.

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

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