Question about Maytag M6X08F2ACOM Air Conditioner

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Not sure how to get access to fan ballbearings to lubricate them. I got the front piece off but don't know how to slide the motor out to see the fan. I didn't buy the unit so I don't have the manual.

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You cant access the fan motor from front you have to take the outer metal cover off and then the guts or inside part of the unit will slide out then you need to take the insulated cover that wraps around where the motor is on some of those units some of the styrofoam even has to come out till you can get to it, but dont be suprised if once you get to the motor it may be a sealed motor with no oil ports depends on how old unit is .its actually a real pain to get to and then putting it back together will take patients.good luck i hope that helps

Posted on Sep 15, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Fan sweaks, is it a bearing?


Vornado makes several fan models. Whether yours has ball bearings, sleeve bearings or another type is unknown. Most manufacturers of consumer grade fans use "permanently lubricated bearings" and require no additional lubrication by the owner "for the life of the fan".

If yours does accept lubrication, you should find a "filler neck" at the front and rear of the motor housing - directly over the motor's shaft (that the fan blade is attached to). A few drops of a light bodied machine oil in each should quiet the squeaking sounds (if coming from the bearing). If there is no such filler neck on the fan, you could unplug the fan and rest it on its back - fan aimed straight up. Squirt a couple drops of oil on the shaft - close to the motor. Because the fan is pointed straight up, gravity will draw the oil down the shaft into the bearing. You may not be able to access the shaft at the rear of the motor without some dis-assembly however. You should not attempt dis-assembly if you're not sure how to go about it. After the oil has run into the bearing, you should spread out newspaper or rags under the fan(or better yet - brought outside - before powering it on, as some oil may be cast off the shaft if it spins fast enough or if there was an excessive amount of oil applied to the shaft.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Jul 28, 2012 | Vornado Circulating Fan

1 Answer

Error 5100


solution 1:
  • Look inside for a tiny object like a piece of paper, a staple...

Solution 2:
  • The purge cap (the white sliding mechanism that the print head parks to when it's not in use) may be not lubricated well enough . Lubricate the sliders with some white grease (don't get it on the small wipers or the black caps); this repair probably require to remove the right panel off of the printer to gain access to the purge mechanism.

Solution 3:
  • Clean the timing strip: there is a thin plastic strip running across the width in front of and below the drive belt: there are fine black vertical lines on this strip. If the strip gets a piece of crud on it, you get an error during the start-up sequence.Gently clean this strip with a damp lint-free tissue.

Dec 07, 2011 | Canon Office Equipment & Supplies

1 Answer

It says i have error 5100 on the pixma ip2600 i got it from a friend and he didnt give the manual with it


Error Code 5100

It can have a lot to do with some obstruction in the print path, the gears, or ink on the clear plastic encoder strip. The purge cap (the white sliding mechanism that the print head parks to when it's not in use) was not lubricated well enough from factory. If you lubricate the sliders with some white grease (don't get it on the small wipers or the black caps) the mechanism can now slide more freely, and the unit can park the head properly without giving you the dreaded head homing error 5100 (or E-2-2 on the LCD display) Keep in mind that this repair will probably require you to remove the right panel off of the printer to gain access to the purge mechanism. There are two screws behind the printer, and two in front for each corresponding side panel (the front screws are behind the grey front panel of the printer - open the top cover to see the clips which hold the front cover on) Hope this helps some of you out.


Also try:

Opening up the case so you can get to the side where the power pack is located and then disconnecting the small plug connecting it to the printer circuit boards, wait 10 seconds, reconnect the plugs again the printer and then re-connect the external power lead.

Also try :


Solution 1:

  • Clean the timing strip.


Solution 2:

  • The purge cap (the white sliding mechanism that the print head parks to when it's not in use) may be not lubricated well enough . Lubricate the sliders with some white grease (don't get it on the small wipers or the black caps); this repair probably require to remove the right panel off of the printer to gain access to the purge mechanism.

Aug 18, 2011 | Canon Pixma iP2600 Photo InkJet Printer

1 Answer

I have a Crosley in window air conditioner squecking. It's abuot 13 years old never had any trouble with it. I sure its the fan don't know how to fix? Could ypou please hglp?


If you can access both ends of the fan shaft, use an aerosol lubricant (not WD40 since this evaporates) and direct it toward the sleeve bearings in which the shaft rides. This may flush out the dust lodged in those bearings and extend the life of the motor. If the motor finally fails, try Johnstone Supply for a replacement. Their prices are far less expensive than those the manufacturers' of the whole unit and they often use catalog motors made by specialty companies.

Aug 07, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Not sure which pedestal fan it is. Speed is a dial, not three distinct speeds. Just found and cleaned it, but now it will not start up unless I spin the blades by hand 6-10 times to get it going. Seems...


Here is a write up I did for Humidifier fan motors---
the same principle applies to pedestal fans, too-- You are right-- the bearings get dried out-- and the shaft 'STICKS!!
Let me know what you tihink of this write up-- try it and let me now what I left out-

Mack B

Have you considered checking to see if the fan motor might just need cleaning and lubricating?
Most small fans and heaters, have small fan motors, in which the bearings have dried out over the years. If you have made an electrical check on the motor leads-- and you have electric going into the windings, likely the motor feels warm? (If not-- possibly a bad splice where the supply wire attaches to the tiny armature wires?-- check , and check continuity)

If you want to tear into the fan motor, and clean up and lubricate the bearings-- here are some tips:

First you need to get inside the heater of the fan housing-- by removing the protective covers.
Note the screws, sizes, locations, and how the protective covers will go back on when you are ready to reassembly-- Mark where the screw holes are that line up with the matching other parts.

Then remove the motor from it's bracket (Possibly have to remove the fan first?)
You will have to remove the fan, to lubricate both front and real bearings.
Next you will need to remove the 4 long screws that hold the motor frame together-- Be sure to mark the original alignment, so you can reassembly correctly.

Now, with the fan removed, gently separate the Front and rear half's of the motor. Usually the windings will stay with the portion of the motor where the wires are still attached. Either way, you are going to have to get the bearings to slide off both Shafts of the armature-- without breaking the delicate winding wires-- the wires are hair thin on small motors!

Now clean up the caked on residue on the shaft where the bearings ride, with rubbing alcohol. Clean up the internals of the bearings as best you can- making sure the pores of the oil-lite bearings are not plugged with solids. Now begin the gentle process of getting the bearing wicking to soak up new oil. When you are sure the reservoirs are well saturated, then generously lubricate the shafts, and slip them thru the bearings again-- retracing all your steps above, The motor shaft should turn freely now. You can test the motor without the fan on-- to be sure you have the motor itself reassembled properly.

Double check all the splices, switches, and any high temperature limit switches for continuity-- and trace the wiring all the way back out thru the power supply cord.

What did you find, and what do you need to do next?

Jan 27, 2011 | Vornado 280CS Stand (Pedestal) Fan

1 Answer

I have an Essick air D46 720. The fan is not running. :(


Here is a solution I wrote up for another Humidifier with a fan problem:

Have you considered checking to see if the fan motor mightjust need cleaning and lubricating?
Most small fans and heaters, have small fan motors, in which thebearings have dried out over the years. If you have made anelectrical check on the motor leads-- and you have electric going into thewindings, likely the motor feels warm? (If not-- possibly a bad splicewhere the supply wire attaches to the tiny armature wires?-- check , and checkcontinuity)

If you want to tear into the fan motor, and clean up and lubricate thebearings-- here are some tips:

First you need to get inside the heater of the fan housing-- by removing theprotective covers.
Note the screws, s, locations, and how the protective coverswill go back on when you are ready to reassembly-- Mark where the screw holesare that line up with the matching other parts.

Then remove the motor from it's bracket (Possibly have to remove the fanfirst?)
You will have to remove the fan, to lubricate both front and realbearings.
Next you will need to remove the 4 long screws that hold the motorframe together-- Be sure to mark the original alignment, so you can reassemblycorrectly.

Now, with the fan removed, gently separate the Front and rearhalf's of the motor. Usually the windings will stay with the portion ofthe motor where the wires are still attached. Either way, you are goingto have to get the bearings to slide off both Shafts of the armature-- withoutbreaking the delicate winding wires-- the wires are hair thin on small motors!

Now clean up the caked on residue on the shaft where the bearings ride,with rubbing alcohol. Clean up the internals of the bearings as best youcan- making sure the pores of the oil-lite bearings are not plugged withsolids. Now begin the gentle process of getting the bearing wicking tosoak up new oil. When you are sure the reservoirs are wellsaturated, then generously lubricate the shafts, and slip them thru thebearings again-- retracing all your steps above, The motor shaft shouldturn freely now. You can test the motor without the fan on-- to besure you have the motor itself reassembled properly.

Double check all the splices, switches, and any high temperature limit switchesfor continuity-- and trace the wiring all the way back out thru the powersupply cord.

What did you find, and what do you need to do next?

I hope this helped-- Let me know If I can help further--

Mack B

Jan 26, 2011 | Essick Air D46720 6 Gallon Humidifier

1 Answer

Fan does not blow. Believe we need a new fan motor.


Have you considered checking to see if the fan motor might just need cleaning and lubricating?
Most small fans and heaters, have small fan motors, in which the bearings have dried out over the years. If you have made an electrical check on the motor leads-- and you have electric going into the windings, likely the motor feels warm? (If not-- possibly a bad splice where the supply wire attaches to the tiny armature wires?-- check , and check continuity)

If you want to tear into the fan motor, and clean up and lubricate the bearings-- here are some tips:

First you need to get inside the heater of the fan housing-- by removing the protective covers.
Note the screws, sizes, locations, and how the protective covers will go back on when you are ready to reassembly-- Mark where the screw holes are that line up with the matching other parts.

Then remove the motor from it's bracket (Possibly have to remove the fan first?)
You will have to remove the fan, to lubricate both front and real bearings.
Next you will need to remove the 4 long screws that hold the motor frame together-- Be sure to mark the original alignment, so you can reassembly correctly.

Now, with the fan removed, gently separate the Front and rear half's of the motor. Usually the windings will stay with the portion of the motor wher the wires are still attached. Either way, you are going to have to get the bearings to slide off both Shafts of the armature-- without breaking the delicate winding wires-- the wires are hair thin on small motors!

Now clean up the caked on residue on the shaft where the bearings ride, with rubbing alcohol. Clean up the internals of the bearings as best you can- making sure the pores of the oil-lite bearings are not plugged with solids. Now begin the gentle process of getting the bearing wicking to soak up new oil. When you are sure the reservoirs are well saturated, then generously lubricate the shafts, and slip them thru the bearings again-- retracing all your steps above, The motor shaft should turn freely now. You can test the motor without the fan on-- to be sure you have the motor itself reassembled properly.

Double check all the splices, switches, and any high temperature limit switches for continuity-- and trace the wiring all the way back out thru the power supply cord.

What did you find, and what do you need to do next?

Let us know--

Mack B

Jan 23, 2011 | Lakewood 798240 Utility Heater

1 Answer

I need help assembling the front forks/handlebar assembyl


The front fork slide in through the head. You must make sure that you have the headset ( a ballbearing assembly) in place. Not rusted. Make sure there is some grease in it .The pin of the fork slips through. The handlebar fits differently depending on the bicycle. Basic models fit directly on. More sophisticated models have a t-piece . There are shorter and longer extensions. They fasten with allen keys.It is actually easy to assemble.

Aug 13, 2010 | Cycling

2 Answers

I have GE profile Model DPSR473EW with loud squeak when drum turns ? I also need to learn how to access the drum etc...


I have experienced two problems with "loud squeeks" with the DPSR473EW. First, if you take the top off (open door, remove two screws under top door lip releasing the top), then.., remove two small screws (inside up high - one on each side) holding the front panel/door assembly on. Pull the front panel/door assy away from the main unit - can't seperate due to some wires near the blower. On the door/front panel assy..., you will see four "teflon slides" that fit into a plastic semi-circular assy (the drum rides on those four teflon slides). Most of the time, this is where the squeeks come from - I've seen them worn thru..., and the drum riding on the plastic (just order the teflon slides - qty 4 - WE1M333). If the plastic piece that the slides fit into is worn, replace it - WE2M26 (top bearing). This should do it. If the slides look OK (so the squeek hasn't been fixed), the other place for a squeek is...., the back bearing. This bearing is basically a male rotating plastic sleeve running in a metal female hole. I have seen those wear thru the plastic bushing..., causing lots of noise. To inspect that bearing, you will need to a) remove the belt (plenty of instructions on the internet), then b)remove the drum..., then..., you can inspect that back bearing (two pieces - one piece on the back of the drum, the female piece mounted on the heater shroud.. If you need to replace that bearing, or one half of it - you can order pn WE25M40 - it will have both pieces. Good Luck

Nov 15, 2009 | GE Profile DPSR473EW Dryer

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