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Pushrods are unhooking while engine is running,even after valve adjustment engine has no reason to do this right side cylinder apx. 850hrs.

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Yes I understand you must be talking about the intake pushrod that is made out of aluminum and is prone to bending because of heat there is a replcement that is made of steel steel is an updated version of the aluminum I am sure that this will help you out with your problem, thank you.

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

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A freind told me when adjusting valves on 1994 camaro twist pushrod while tightning locknut until pushrod no longer twists then go an additional one and a half turns is this right cuz car won't start


try this link on how these valves adjustments are done
gee i wish these links would highlight every time
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves

need to read the whole artical
but this sort of answers your question



Gauging zero lash by hand is not an exact science. When setting the valve lash with the engine not running, you can get close enough by doing the "spin the pushrod" method. Loosen the rocker arm until you can feel slack in the pushrod to rocker arm. Spin the pushrod with your fingers while tighening the rocker arm back down. The instant you BEGIN to feel drag while spinning the pushrod, you are at zero lash. Pay close attention. If you get it too tight, loosen and retry. If you don't like the spin method, use the up/down slack method of gauging when the slack is gone. Once zero lash is reached, stop and add your preload.


The hydraulic lifter has an internal plunger that has a specific amount of travel. On stock engines, the purpose of preload is to compress the plunger so the pushrod will be riding on a "cushion" (acts like a shock absorber). With stock lifters, turning the rocker nut another ½ to ¾ turn, will normally put you in the ballpark for quiet operation without being too tight and the adjustment should last a long time. Most books show stock preload at up to 1 turn. Specific lifters like the Comp Cams "Comp R's", have less internal travel. ¼ turn preload is more than plenty, with 1/8 or just barely any preload being better for high revving engines. Comp actually recommends .002-.004 preload on a warm engine for those lifters.
For reference:
3/8" stud: ½ flat = .003472"
7/16" stud: ½ flat = .00416"
Rotating the nut 1/6 of a turn (until the next flat side is in the same position as the previous flat side) is a "flat".

Consequences of improper adjustment:
Too tight - the valves will not completely close and you will lose compression. The engine will run rough, if it will run at all.
Too loose - the rocker arms will make noise from the slack and pushrods could be dislodged. Possible damage could occur from either extreme.

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Oct 17, 2016 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

My 46 inch rider MTD, motor bogs down when deck is engaged


most likely has a 2 cylinder B&S engine. tendency toward bent valve pushrods, meaning might be running on one cylinder causing no power with deck engaged. take one spark plug out at a time and run the engine. if it will run with one plug but not the other plug, then pull off the little valve cover on the dead side and check for bent rods. get new ones at small engine repair shop and find someone to put them in and adjust them for you. if you are not mechanical, do not attempt adjustment yourself.

Jul 14, 2011 | Garden

1 Answer

You said youknew the torque specs for my rocker arms on the 92 chevy s-10 pickup 2.8 liter v-6


  1. Crank the engine until the mark on the Harmonic Balancer lines up with the "0" mark on the timing tab and the engine in the number one firing position. This may be determined by placing fingers on the number one valve as the mark on the damper comes near the "0" mark on the timing lab. If the rocker arms are not moving, the engine is in the number one firing position. If the rocker arms move as the mark comes up to the timing tab, the engine is in the number four firing position and should be turned over one more time to reach the number one position.
  2. With the engine in the number one firing position as determined above, the following valves may be adjusted:
    1. Exhaust: 1, 2, 3
    • Intake: 1, 5, 6 (Even numbered cylinders are in the left bank; odd numbered cylinders are in the right bank; when viewed from the rear of the engine).
  1. Back out the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod then turn in the adjusting nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrod while turning the adjusting nut (figure 7). When the play has been removed, turn the adjusting nut in one and one-half additional turns (to center the lifter plunger).
  2. Crank the engine one revolution until the timing tab "0" mark and vibration damper mark are again in alignment. This is the number four firing position. The following valves may be adjusted:
    • Exhaust: 4, 5, 6
    • Intake: 2, 3, 4

Jun 05, 2011 | Chevrolet S 10 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Valve adjustment


To adjust the valves on your Ironhead, the engine must be stone cold. You want to adjust the tappets so that you have zero backlash on the cold engine. As the engine heats up, the cylinder and heads expand upward creating valve lash in the valve train. This is why you want zero lash with the engine cold. If you get the valves set too tightly, it'll hold a valve open ever so slightly and make starting difficult.

To adjust the valves, bring one piston to TDC on the compression stroke, both valves closed with tappets in their lowest position. Pop the pushrod covers loose and loosen the lock nut on one of the tappets. Adjust the top part of the adjuster outwards until the pushrod can no longer be turned with your fingers. Turn the lock nut down but don't lock it yet. Gradually turn the top adjuster downward until you can spin the pushrod with your finger and finish locking the lock nut. Recheck the pushrod to see if it still spins but has no up and down movement. Do the same with the other pushrod on that cylinder. Remember, if's better to get the pushrods adjusted slightly loose rather than slightly tight. It might rattle a bit more but it'll start easier as well. Put the pushrod tubes back together and then do the same thing with the other cylinder.

May 21, 2011 | 1979 Harley Davidson XLH 1000 Sportster

1 Answer

Well we tried adjusting the valves and then it will start and make a werid noise and then will be about to shut off and it doesnt sound right plezz can you help me? its a 1997 gmc 5.7 1500


With the Engine in the number 1 firing position, adjust the exhaust valves for cylinders number 1, 3, 4, and 8 and the intake valves for cylinders number 1, 2, 5, and 7.
Turn the valve rocker arm nut counter clockwise until the valve lash is felt in the valve pushrod.
Turn the rocker arm nut clockwise until all of the valve lash is removed (zero valve lash).
Zero valve lash can be felt by moving the valve pushrod up and down between your thumb and forefinger until there is no more up and down movement of the valve pushrod.
When all the valve lash is removed, then turn the valve rocker arm nut clockwise 1 additional turn (360 degrees).


With the engine in the number 6 firing position, adjust the exhaust valves for cylinders number 2, 5, 6, and 7 and the intake valves for cylinders number 3, 4, 6, and 8.

Follow the same steps as above.

Apr 01, 2011 | GMC Suburban Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Trying to find correct method to set or adjust tappets on my 1973 Harley-Davidson Shovelhead engine which has a stroker motor and solid lifters


If your Shovelhead has solid lifters, you set them exactly like you would set the tappets on an Ironhead Sportster. With the engine stone cold, Bring either piston to top dead center ON THE COMPRESSION stroke. Both valves on that cylinder should be closed and the tappets on the heel of the cam at this point. Now, adjust the pushrods longer until you can no longer turn them with your fingertips. Now, back them back down until you can barely spin them with your fingers. Lock the locknuts down. Then bring the other cylinder to TDC COMPRESSION STROKE and adjust those pushrods.

You are adjusting for Zero backlash just like on an Ironhead Sporty. As the engine heats and the cylinders and head expand, they do so away from the cases which gives you more backlash the hotter they get. If you get the pushrods too tight, when the engine cools down, they'll hold the valve open just slightly making the engine difficult to get started.

Now, if you have hydraulic tappets, with the engine cold, back the pushrods off until they are loose. Bring them back down to zero backlash and then come down four additional turns and lock the locknut. Wait until the tappet bleeds down and you can spin the pushrod before you turn the engine.

Good Luck
Steve

Mar 20, 2011 | Harley Davidson FLHT Electra Glide...

1 Answer

1970 flh When the throttle is backed off the valves make a tapping noise, is this normal?


Your engine is equipped with hydraulic tappets and they shouldn't make a noise however, a 1970 model had probably got a lot of miles on the entire engine unless it's been overhauled. Even then, a lot of mechanic overlook a few things that would cause that problem.

First let's start by adjusting the valves. Take the plugs out of the engine and raise the rear tire off the ground. Put the transmission in fourth gear and bump the engine over until the front cylinder is at top dead center. Remove the pushrod tubes. Loosen the lock nut on the pushrods and back the off until they are completely loose. Then, turn the adjuster downwards until all the slack is our of the pushrod. Then continue turning the adjust exactly four more complete turns and lock the lock nut. Do the same with the other pushrod for that cylinder. Allow time for the hydraulic units to bleed down until you can spin the pushrods with your fingers. Now, you can turn the engine over.

Turn the engine over until the rear cylinder is at top dead center and adjust the pushrods the same way. Once finished, reinstall the pushrod tubes, spark plugs, put the transmission in neutral, and lower the bike. This should stop you ticking if pushrod adjustment was the problem.

Now, the hydraulic tappet units just sit in the top of the tappets. While you've got the pushrods loose, you can take the hydraulic units out of the tappet. To test the hydraulic units, pull it apart and use mineral spirits to clean all the oil out of the unit. Blow the unit dry with compressed air. Put the unit back together and squeeze it all the way together and hold it for ten seconds. If the center pops back up when you release it, the unit is good. If the unit bleeds down and does not pop back up, the unit is worn out.

Another source of "ticking" in the valve train is the rocker arm bushing and shafts. These wear rather quickly. If they are not replaced, they will make a ticking noise. Other than that, there is nothing that will cause he valve train to tick. Now, you can lose a roller bearing on the cam end of the tappet but it'll make a knocking type noise much more noticeable than a ticking noise. Hope this helps.

Good Luck
Steve

Nov 11, 2010 | Harley Davidson FLHT - FLHTI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

Rocker arm torque specs on a 97 gmc jimmy 4.3


  1. For the 4.3L engines which are equipped with screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, tighten the rocker arm adjusting nuts against the stop shoulders to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm) on 1994-96 models and 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) on 1997-99 models. No further adjustment is necessary, or possible.
  2. For most 4.3L engines which are not equipped with screw-in type rocker arm studs and positive stop shoulders, properly adjust the valve lash. For details on valve lash adjustment, please refer to the procedure in Routine Maintenance . (see below)
4.3L Engine

The 4.3L engines may be equipped with either of 2 rocker arm retaining systems. If your engine utilizes screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, no valve lash adjustment is necessary or possible. If however, you engine utilizes the pressed-in rocker arm studs, use the following procedure to tighten the rocker arm nuts and properly center the pushrod on the hydraulic lifter:
  1. To prepare the engine for valve adjustment, rotate the crankshaft until the mark on the damper pulley aligns with the 0? mark on the timing plate and the No. 1 cylinder is on the compression stroke. You will know when the No. 1 piston is on it's compression stroke because both the intake and exhaust valves will remain closed as the crankshaft damper mark approaches the timing scale.

Another method to tell when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke is by removing the spark plug and placing your thumb over the hole, you will feel the air being forced out of the spark plug hole. Stop turning the crankshaft when the TDC timing mark on the crankshaft pulley is directly aligned with the timing mark pointer or the zero mark on the scale.
The valve arrangement is as follows:



E-I-I-E-I-E (right bank-front-to-rear) E-I-E-I-I-E (left bank-front-to-rear)

  1. With the engine on the compression stroke, adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 1, 5 & 6 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 1, 2 & 3 by performing the following procedures:
    1. Back out the adjusting nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod.
    2. While rotating the pushrod, turn the adjusting nut inward until all of the lash is removed.
    3. When the play has disappeared, turn the adjusting nut inward 1 3 / 4 additional turns.

  2. Rotate the crankshaft one complete revolution and align the mark on the damper pulley with the 0? mark on the timing plate; the engine is now positioned on the No. 4 firing position. This time the No. 4 cylinder valves remain closed as the timing mark approaches the scale. Adjust the exhaust valves of cylinders No. 2, 3 & 4 and the intake valves of cylinders No. 4, 5 & 6, by performing the following procedures:
    1. Back out the adjusting nut until lash can be felt at the pushrod.
    2. While rotating the pushrod, turn the adjusting nut inward until all of the lash is removed.
    3. When the play has disappeared, turn the adjusting nut inward 1 3 / 4 additional turn.

Sep 23, 2010 | 1997 GMC Jimmy

1 Answer

Looking for instructions to adjust valves on 1987 H.D.


If the engine is stock, there is no adjustment to the valves. The engine is equipped with hydraulic tappets that take up for any wear or heat expansion of the cylinders. The pushrods are non-adjustable but are of different lengths. They are color-coded as to what position they go in.

Now, if your engine has been modified and adjustable pushrods installed, they should work the same way unless they are way out of adjustment. Then, it depends on "whose" pushrods they are as not all pushrods have the same threaded ends on them. But, all is not lost.

Take one of the pushrods out of the engine and adjust the pushrod as short as it will go. Now, turn the end out until it makes the pushrod exactly 0.100" longer while counting the "flats" on the adjuster. When you install the pushrod, make sure the tappet is at it's lowest point in the bore. Put the pushrod in, don't forget the tube and the new O-rings, and adjust the pushrod out until you have zero backlash. Then adjust it out the additional number of "flats" that it took to make it exactly 0.100" longer. Lock the adjuster down. What you're doing here is the plunger of the tappet has a travel of 0.200" total and you're adjusting the pushrod so that the plunger is halfway in the middle of its travel so that it's got equal travel in both the up and down direction.

Good Luck

Jun 02, 2010 | 2003 Harley Davidson FLHTC Electra Glide...

2 Answers

There is a ticking sound coming from teh drivers side of the motor top end when i start it up when i drive it goes away but its there when i start it or ideling


In order to give you a solution to your problem, I need to explain a little bit about the valve train in your engine, the engine itself, and how it works.

1.You have an Internal Combustion engine. It is a Four Stroke engine. The engine has a Cylinder Block with cylinders inside. There is a piston for each cylinder which goes up, and down. The piston/s are connected to a crankshaft. The crankshaft turns the transmission, which in turn turns the driveshaft, to the rear differential. The rear differential has axles, which the rear wheels are bolted to. The four strokes are , Intake Stroke, Compression Stroke, Combustion Stroke, and Exhaust Stroke.

The piston goes down the cylinder drawing the fuel/air mixture in. (Intake Stroke) The Intake valve opens. The piston comes back up the cylinder, and Compresses the fuel/air mixture. (Compression Stroke) Both the Intake and Exhaust valve are closed. The spark plug fires igniting the fuel/air mixture, and shoves the piston down. (Combustion Stroke) Finally the Exhaust valve opens, and expels the burnt gases. (Exhaust Stroke)
This page on Wikipedia.org, may help explain the process. The third 'photo' down on the right is an animation showing the process.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine
The animation shows an engine with an Overhead Camshaft. Your camshaft is located in the Cylinder Block, and not in the Cylinder Head, as shown.

2.Your Camshaft is a shaft with egg shaped lobes on it. As the tip of the egg shape comes to the top, it pushes up on a Hydraulic Lifter. This lifter in turn pushes up on a Pushrod, which pushes up on a Rocker Arm. The Rocker Arm in turn pushes down on either the Intake Valve, or the Exhaust Valve, opening them.

A Rocker Arm is shaped a lot like a See-saw. Just like the one's at a child's playground. As one side goes up, the other side comes down. The Pushrod pushes up on one side of the Rocker Arm, and the other side of the Rocker Arm pushes down on the valve, opening it.

A Hydraulic Lifter is a small cylinder that has a piston in it. Oil goes through a tiny hole in the side of the lifter, and this keeps the piston in a certain position. (That's why this lifter is named 'Hydraulic', because it uses oil inside) The Pushrod rests on this piston. The hydraulic action of the Hydraulic Lifter, keeps slack out of the valve train. The pushrod to rocker arm distance, and the rocker arm to valve distance.

What you are hearing, is a clicking sound from clearance being created, in-between the pushrod to rocker arm, and/or rocker arm to valve stem. A metal to metal clicking sound.

Solution? Depends on how mechanically inclined you are, or you may want to refer this job to an auto repair shop. The valve cover needs to be removed, and the nut on each rocker arm needs to be adjusted. Adjusting the nut down, (Clockwise), pushes the rocker arm down on the rocker arm stud, a little. This removes the slack, and makes things nice, and quiet again. Your engine will also run better, and you'll get better gas mileage.

DON'T do this, or have it down, and eventually the slack that is in there will increase. This will break parts! There IS a technique in doing this. If you know of someone who is good at adjusting valves, they can do it. They MUST be good however. If you adjust the Rocker Arm Nut too far down, you will lose power, and the exhaust valve face will burn. Not far enough down, and you get the clicking sound you hear now. About 1/4 turn down, to 1/2 turn down, should do it.

Jul 26, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

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