Question about Microwave Ovens

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Same problem! Just happened to ours too. The nacklight is gone!Tried to mend it and it worked for a week or 2. But it has gone again! If you look through the black screen, you will see the black digits behind it, but there is no blue light! Possibly a faulty lcd panel.

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We regularly repair such control units for customers nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in about a week or so with a one-year guarantee.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number from the tag on the unit) for more information & help.

NOTE: The FixYa system is not currently notifying me when folks reply to my posts

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller, AS-EET
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com
Microwave Oven Control Panel Repair Nationwide

Posted on Sep 11, 2009

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Our microwave, a Summit OTR 24 (built in cabinet with venting), will tend to shut itself down if we cook something longer than, say, 8 minutes straight. No power, lights on panel out. Then a few...


Sounds like the electronics overheated. You'd have to pull it and examine the insides to see what has gone bad. It could be pretty much anything.

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It sounds like you have a shorted cook relay on your control circuit board.

That can usually be repaired more economically than replacing the circuit board.

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Replace the magnetron, safety fuse and diode as a set and check the door interlock switches.
That should get it working for another year or so.
Don't forget microwave mains fuses are special sand filled and semisurge type.

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Magnetron may have died or internal fuse may have blown.Its could be all sorts of things.
May be time to buy a new one!

DO NOT TAKE OFF THE COVER YOUR SELVES, AS THEY MAY BE ELETRIC CHARGE STILL PRESANT EVEN WITH THE PLUG DISSCONNECTED

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If it stops heating it needs a new magnetron. our oven is less than 2 years old and has gone thru 2 magnetrons so far. Hoping to get some help from GE.

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We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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After having it on to say pop corn, after 4 minutes it goes dead. Then 2 hours later there are 2 letters that appear. Then it will work again. I have had it for 2 weeks and this has happened several times.


I'll bet the letters are "PF", as in power failure, right?

If it is going dead, sounds like the magnetron is overheating and opening the thermostat.

This can be caused when the internal cooling fan is not running or by a magnetron that is failing.

When I say internal cooling fan, I do not mean the hood vent exhaust fan which you can turn on and off manually.

I'm instead talking about the internal fan which comes on automatically whenever you microwave.

It is vital that the cooling fan runs, or the magnetron will be destroyed.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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We have the R530ES service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our site here to help you. It's close enough to the R530EK and EW models, in case that's what yours is.

You will need the free Acrobat Reader to view or print it.

Actually you have two separate problems, and both are easily solved..

(1) The reason that only the inside light comes on when you try to cook is that your secondary (bottom) door interlock switch is bad, or its mount is misaligned or broken.

Door switch or mount trouble can be caused by slamming the door or by opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

There are plastic mounts inside the microwave which hold the door switches and onto which the door latches lock when you close the door.

The screws on these mounts may be loose. If they get too loose, the switches will not be activated properly.

Sometimes it's a broken tab on the switch holder, allowing the switch to rotate just out of position. This tab can be hard to see, since it is under the bottom edge of the switch.

If you only need a switch, you can order one from us for $5 postpaid or local appliance parts stores, hardware stores, or places like Wal-Mart, Lowe's or Builder's Square.

(2) The display problem is something we regularly repair these for customers nationwide with our guaranteed $39.95 service in about a week.

Feel free to contact me directly for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com


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1 Answer

F6 error... microwave not working


is the microwave itself working? because same thing happened to us apparently the guy who changed the bulb didnt unplugg the thing first and well it burned a part of the circut board cost us about 90 dollars to fix it.....

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1 Answer

Microwave stopped working


Sounds like it blew the fuse, and when the fuse blows immediately upon hitting the START button, I'd say you have a shorted high voltage capacitor. But it may also be an open thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or just a fuse. If you or a friend decide to work on it, we have *critical* safety, disassembly, and troubleshooting info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your actual model number (like JVM1860B01, not XL1800 or Spacemaker) here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

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