Whirley crank spins without spinning the popcorn bars in the pot
The crank spins but doesn't spin the popcorn bars in the pot. The bar that the gray cog surrounds rotates, but the gray cog doesn't spin when I'm trying to pop popcorn. Is my transmission shot? Should I try AAMCO or is there a simple repair? My e-mail is firstname.lastname@example.org
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The DC17 doesn't use a clutch-based brush control system, so you may be referring to a different Dyson model. So we can determine exactly which machine you own, and offer the support you need as quickly as possible, please get in touch with us directly. You can call us free on 08002980298 (UK), or 1866MYDYSON (US). We'll look forward to hearing from you.
The belt is rubbing the foot plate.Check to see if the foot plate is damaged.Allso check the bearings in the brush bar are free and spin without the belt on.If you cant spin the brush bar by hand with the belt not attached then your bearings are seized.Get a new brush bar
HighnTools posted this solution a while ago. This might be related to your problem:
have finally fixed my sister's dyson dc 15 beater bar problem. It was just 2 tiny broken wires
connect to circuit board lead to the beater bar. The wires broke where
they go through the black rubber gommet. You need a torx screwdriver tx 15 to
remove 2 plastic covers to access the wires. When looking at the front of the
vacuum, the gray covers located on the right side of the vacuum. 1 big cover
with a black rubber gasket and other small gray cover is on the rotating ball
area. The above was from HighnTools.
Usually when the belt breaks immediately, this indicates that your roller brush has gone bad and needs to be replaced. I have never seen the motor shaft being damaged and causing belts to break before. When the roller brush can't spin because it's bearings have worn out, the motor shaft continues to try and turn the belt, but since the belt can't spin the motor shaft at that point burns right through the belt.
To make sure that it's your roller brush, remove the brush from the vacuum cleaner, and hold it using just your two pointer finger tips, holding just the bearings caps at the end of the bar, and not the bar itself.
Try to spin the brush using your thumbs. Does the brush spin freely without resistance? It should spin completely around 3-4 times on each spin. If it doesn't spin, then your bar is bad.
If the brush doesn spin, and it continues to break belts, this means that the belt is being installed incorrectly, and is being pinched by the roller brush. Pull the belt forwards after installing to make sure the brush spins freely.
This is a little about how your washer spins. When time to go into a spin cycle, the motor is already running and the washer is in a pump out mode. The timer advances and closes contacts in timer that make electrical circuit through the lid switch to the spin solenoid. This is normally done through a gray wire from timer to lid switch and then a red wire from lid switch to the spin solenoid. A white common wire completes the circuit. This spin solenoid is on a magnet bar with the agitate solenoid also on it. You will see it under the machine moving back and forth as the motor runs. This magnet bar is called a wigwag in the appliance trade. When the spin solenoid is energized, it sucks a plunger pinned to the spin cam bar up into the solenoid. The plunger pin goes to a different level in the cam bar and pulls it in the direction of the motor and keeps it there until spin cycle is over. When cam bar is pulled back, it allows the clutch to drop down and engage the spinning center pulley attached to the spin tube. The spin tube turns, the wash basket is locked to spin tube, therefore it spins. Now for your question. What goes wrong? 1. The solenoid can be open. Watch it and if it doesn't **** the plunger up, check with an ohm meter. If solenoid good, assume no power to it. 2. No power to solenoid. You will need to check the circuit from timer, through lid switch, to solenoid. Most likely place seems to be lid switch. check it. 3. The wires coming to the solenoid are constantly moving back and forth as the machine runs. This puts tension on the wires and they tend to break inside the insulation of the wire. To check for break internally in the wire, read from one end of it to other with ohm meter. Another way is to grasp wire (unplug the washer) about 8 inches back from end and pull hard on end of wire. If broken inside, it will pull apart and stretch insulation. Replace wire. There are mechanical operations that can give problems, but most spin problems are in the area that I just addressed. Another common trouble maker has cropped up in the last few years. The set screw on the clutch assembly backs out and this will keep the brake on all the time and the washer will either spin very slowly or not spin at all. Sometimes the hole in the spin tube will become damaged and requires the clutch to be replaced, but sometimes the sets screw can be reinstalled. (unplug the washer) You must remove the set screw and line up the holes by slowly turning the inner basket around. I usually use a piece of hard wire pushed into the hole, once the set screw hole and the spin tub holes are lined up you will be able to push the wire in...add some lock tight to the screw threads and reinstall the set screw. Picture of where this set screw is.