a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
We have just had our old system boiler replaced with a vaillant ecotec plus 837 and sounds like a similar working operation to ours. At first I was a little concerned,but I was told by our installer that he was told by vaillant that these very latest boilers size the system on start up for about 10 mins, then take temperature to target flow which you set boiler at.
So even by setting target flow temperature very high you still get the initial sizing cycle, which ours was about 30-35c temp.
These boilers seem to run biased for efficiency as after a while they modulate the boiler burner down and the radiators run more on the side of warm than really hot like the old type boilers. You also get better efficiency as at lower temperature the boiler condenses better. You will also find you get a more constant temperature in your home rather than over shoots.
I was concerned at first, shame there was no info/explanation in user manual as people do need to know that this is normal operation.
We are used to ours now, took a month and by the way these boilers can make a creaking noise but was told this normal expansion/ contraction but annoying when sited in bedroom cupboard.
Best of luck!
clicking rads are due to pipe expansion when getting hot. If the hot water [secondary circuit] gets hot and the boiler stays on [does not keep going on and off] even with a constant low water flow then the diverter should be ok. there is a valve to prevent the primary circuit [central heating] [ CH] from sending water to the rads. this or its control may be at fault. both the Both the CH pipes to & from the boiler should have manual valves to turn off. do this then try the hot tap-full on. If the boiler goes into overheat mode and the overheat stat kicks in to turn the boiler off -- then :- Check also the heat exchanger, it may be furred up especially if you are in a hard water area. It means taking it off and manually checking [pour water through] If you're lucky it will be just muck to be forced out with hose pipe pressure, if not a new one
Combi boilers are unlike regular boilers in that they have quite a few moving parts, it's vital that these are serviced annually if you want the boiler to remain reliable and to avoid expensive failures.
In your case, the diverter valve has most likely failed. Normally, when the heating is on this senses when there's a demand for hot water and temporarily diverts the primary hot water circuit to feed the domestic hot water heat exchanger. When the demand for hot water ceases the primary hot water circuit is diverted back to the central heating heat exchanger. The valve has a number of moving parts including a rubber diaphragm which can wear out and split and moving shafts which can seize.
When the valve fails it can leak and also can divert hot water to the central heating heat exchanger when hot water is used. The reason that only the highest radiators in the system are affected is probably because the failed valve does not necessarily cause the central heating pump to activate and circulate the hot water throughout the system (it does on some boilers though). If hot water is introduced into a cold heating system it will rise via convection to the highest points in the system like an old fashioned gravity circulation system which was unpumped.
Call a heating engineer out as soon as possible; I'm not going to advise how to do the repair yourself as gas appliances MUST be serviced by qualified persons only for reasons of safety. If you're lucky then the valve simply needs cleaning up and a few new diaphragms plus other minor seals and rings. If it's gone too far then the valve and possibly the manifold it's attached to will need to be replaced.
In the UK the part alone typically costs between £100 to £200 depending on whether it's just the valve or the manifold as well. The diaphragm kit typically costs up to around £15 and is routinely fitted when the boiler is annually serviced, and a new valve will already have new diaphragms fitted. For a routine service expect to pay for up to two hours labour (many can be done in one hour), but if the valve/manifold have failed it will be longer as one failure often causes other parts to need further inspection/repair.
I hope that I've helped you today, if so please return the favour by rating my answer.
there should be a pressure rellief valve fitted.
it also sounds like the heat exchanger is blocked if the hot water is not as good as it used to be and the boiler reaches temperature too quickly then there is scale in the heat exchanger and needs to be cleaned or replaced
you could have a flow problem due to sludge or scale in the boiler, it could be a pump problem as it may not be circulating enough water around the system. or it could be a faulty thermostat if it is not cutting out soon enough.
1st try turning the boiler stat down to its minimum, if it still over heats then it is probably the stat.
if you have a switch on your pump to increase the speed make sure it is on setting 3. if the pump is old then it may be time for a replacement.
Is your boiler heating your domestic hot water if so i would turn water off to water maker and see if your boiler pressure stays down below 20 psi. If so water maker is bad. The other thing that could cause this problem would be the boiler pump is out.
the problem there a relay stuck or thermostat bring on the pump & you can lower your high limit aquastat!! also the flow valves can bypass hot hot water risers time to put in a seperate water heater domestic coil are not energy efficient !!!! aquastat high limit set @ 180f deg low limit set @ 140f deg!!!
good luck!!! tim