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Re: main water valve
Your house is all ran in pipes and fittings. A lot of fittings, every turn, every time it splits off. When you turn off and on the main water, there is some air that gets into the line. When you turn it on the water pushes the air out with water preasure. That makes a water hammer, a pounding of water. the work hammer should say a lot. Like anything else, all those fittings can leak. So turning the water reduces the preasure you put on the 100's of fittings you have in your house. Why take the chance, turn it on slowly.
Don't mind the title it made me choose one. Main water supply valve was not one of them
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This is your water tank drain or boiler ****. If it's plastic, it cannot be repaired so replacement is necessary. Of course you will need to drain the tank* first before replacing the valve.
* First turn off the circuit breaker for the water heater. Turn off the cold water supply to the tank. Open all of the hot water valves at each faucet in the house for proper drainage. Connect a garden hose to the tank drain with the other end emptying into into your basement drain or to outside of the house. Open the tank drain valve slowly and allow it to drain completely.
Once it has drained, use a pair of channel-lock pliers (aka water pump pliers or arc joint pliers) to turn the base of the valve counter-clockwise and remove it. Take this valve to a plumbing, hardware of home improvement store and ask for a replacement. I recommend a brass replacement valve but a PVC one is acceptable. Pick up a roll of 1/2" teflon pipe tape too.
Wrap the pipe thread on the new valve with 2 or 3 wraps of the teflon tape. Start the valve into the drain hole by hand, then tighten with the pliers until snug and valve oulet pointing down. Make sure the valve is closed. Turn on the cold water supply valves then turn off the faucets in the house once they are purged of air. Allow the tank to pressurize and check for leaks. If good, turn on the circuit breaker and you are good to go.
Turn the water off. Remove r=the top section of the fill valve. Slowly turn the water on while holding a cup over the open end of the Fluid-master fill valve. This is to wash out any debris. Turn the water off. take the rubber seal out of the fill valve cap and wash it under warm water. Replace the seal and reinstall the cap. Slowly turn the water back on. If you still have problems after completing this task. Replace the rubber fill valve seal or the whole valve. I do not think the supply line is the main problem.
There will not be a one word solution to this but if we test the areas beginning with the water supply line we will come to a answer. You need to look at where and how the water line is connected to the water service line. Shut the water supply off at its source. remove the water line on back of refrigerator and point water line into a pan or bucket and have someone turn the shut off back on. If flow is poor then the suppline has a blockage at the tap valve that is (not recommended) or a crimp in the feed supply line to refrigerator. If that turns out to be OK then we move to the dual water control valve part number 67006322 It also may be that the valve is not opening well due to being worn out, I am ready to assist you when you are, Sea Breeze
Good day, First, measuring the coil Resistance doesn't work. A valve can measure fine, but refuse to open. First, shut the water off to the house at the meter. remove the line from the valve, put the line into a bucket, and have someone turn the water valve on full for a 15 second or so count. The water must come out and strongly. Unlike an automatic washer, the ice maker is a time fill. 7 seconds period. Second, it is not unusual for the file tube that runs from the back of the machine and into the back of the ice maker to ice up. Common problem, and is caused by the water valve on the back rear of the machine to leak slowly on the off cycle. Water valve must be replaced with new. Remove the ice maker to inspect that fill tube. If iced, thaw out. Beware of hair dryers. Too much heat can cause serious problems if plastic and/or vinyl parts get melted. I don't recommend heat. A pain, but unplug the machine for 12 hours with the freezer door open.
To clean it, shut off the discharge valve at the water heater. Then, you shut the valve off of the main water supply. After which, you can start cleaning the single knob shower cartridge. After the cleaning job, you can open the discharge valve of the water heater, then, the valve of the main water supply.
This is what I found for the E4 code...hope this helps...and thanks for rating my effort...The Fang.
Machine won't fill or won't fill high enough(LX18, LX30 display shows "E0," "E2," "E3," or "E4")
1.Low water pressure — check for clogged hose strainer; check that site water pressure meets minimum flow pressures. 2.Make sure probes are clean. 3.No water pressure — main water supply valves may not be working. 4.Drain valve open - turn machine off to drain machine, then on. Repeat twice (this assists in clearing any drain valve obstructions). Wait for machine to reach READY mode and press WASH. Slowly open door several seconds later and note water level. Close door; 30 seconds later, open door slowly and check that water level is the same as it was. If not, repeat the OFF-ON procedure. 5. Delime machine.
Many new supply lines have a safety valve built in to prevent flooding in case of major malfuction. Floodsaver is one of the brands. They can be identified by a small silver cylinder at the water valve end under your sink. I have found that then valves can close under certain conditions other than a malfunction. Try turning off the supply valve and then very slowly, reopen it. Sometimes, I have had to turn off the water supply valve, disconnect the line to relieve the pressure, reattach and SLOWLY turn the water back on. If this fails, next try the diagnostic procedures here: