You can take it to a repair place, the screws on the bottom are not designed for the everyday person to open them. a special screwdriver is used. But I do think if it is not holding water the tank has been cracked somewhere. I would be cutting the end of the cord and binning it.
I would recommend a Phillips Steam iron GC4430. It is comfortable to hold and light enough that you hand/wrist/arm doesn't get sore. Price is quite good, under 200. You can also purchase extra warranty on this item.
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The mountains of Mt. Fuji have blessed you. Just kidding, have you ever dropped this iron? Mold may be growing where there is a leak in the holding tank. Water and electricity do not mix, time for a new unit.
It is quite possible that this is a defect in the shark G1490F... I had the same problem and it was a crack in the water holding tank caused by tightening the two front screws (hidden) that hold the tank to the base... It seemed fine at first but after a full heating it developed a crack where it had been weakened when it was assembled... I suggest returning it or if warranty is up , throw it away and get something else..
There is a rubber grommet that lives between the water tank and the heating plate chamber. If the iron was dropped, this grommet might have become disloged. Another possibility is that there is a problem with the chamber, and lastly with the heater plate.
Irons are easy to disassemble if they don't have those special little screws that attempt to thwart the efforts from a standard screwdriver. (Please have the iron unplugged. Connectors in there love to hit stuff and you when disassembled.)
I have submittted the photos to one of the expert gurus on fixya and I cannot remember his name. If I remember correctly it is not a screw but a plastic pin (3) that sticks up fom the plate and is secured by a circular disc with fingers in the center that push up when they slide it on and one must open these fingers up, unuslly one will do so it will release. If you try to force it off it will/may snap off the pin. If some one can help you, you might want to get two of those $1.00 screwdriver kits and have one person, or a vise, hold the iron and the two of you slide the small flat screwdrives under the fingers and pry up together, if you can get to it. Remember the one I had was glued together with minimal screws throughout.I have never seen an appliance so difficult to access for the simplest repair. Good luck and God Bless.
I had the same problem. There is a thermal cut-off switch mounted to the top-side of the base-plate. Unfortunately, you have to completely disassemble the iron to get to it. It is an easy replace, just make sure you take good notes on how it's all wired and put together. To disassemble the iron, I did this:
- Mount it in the cord base and move the switch to the "wireless" setting to remove the cord assembly from the iron.
- There are 2 small while nubs on the bottom of the blue plate in back. These are plugs. Pull them out to expose 2 screws.
- Remove these two screws plus the one in the center of the back blue plate.
- Pull the blue plate from the back of the iron and MARK all wires so you know where they go, then remove them.
- You will see 2 screws into the blue plastic base-plate at the back. Remove these.
- Open the door at the front of the iron where you pour the water in.
- Pry the spray nozzle at the bottom out (pry it forward). This will expose a third screw into the blue part of the base-pate. Remove this screw.
- Pull the white plastic and blue reservior away from the blue plastic base-plate. This will expose three screws into the metal bottom plate. Remove these three screws (on in front, 2 in back).
- Pull the blue plate away from the bottom metal plate. This will expose the thermal cut-off. There is a screw with a small metal clip holding it down. This is the part you will need to replace.
I bought my replacement part from a local electronics store. On mine, it was a 240 degree C cut-off. The part I used was from NTE. Part number is NTE8242. It cost me $1.40.
I suspect the reason this blew on my iron is because Oreck engineers didn't expect it to be plugged in all the time (my wife did not like the 'wireless' mode as it did not stay hot long enough so she uses it in 'corded' mode). If you use the iron on it's hottest setting in this mode, it appears that perhaps the plate gets hotter than 204C. That, or Oreck just got a lot of bad thermal cut-off parts and they are cutting off at a temperature lower than 240C.
This was happening with mine - leaving trails of water behind as well when I ironed. I took it all apart (figured it was already broken, what could I do worse?) I discovered that there is a rubber gasket around the hole that lets water move from the reservoir to the heating plate. The two surfaces (reservoir and plate) are held together by screws, which compresses and seals the gasket. The bottom surface of the reservoir section had been cracked (due to a drop on the cement floor, probably, and the two surfaces could no longer fit tightly together, the crack allowed it to flex, and water leak out. In other word, once it's leaking like that, it's time for a new iron. Sorry I can't offer a fix, but at least a explanation!