Question about Troy Bilt Tb425cs 26cc 4 - Cycle Curved - Shaft Gas Trimmer with Ez - Start and Speed Spool
My trimmer worked fine for a few months. Now when I give it gas it acts as if it's getting too much or too little gas. I tightened the 4 screws on the carburator a little bit. (the pushbutton section) They seemed a bit too loose. Worked good again for a couple weeks. Now it's doing it again.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Dont replace the carb! The gaskets are what wear out on walbro carbs and the like. Specificaly the fuel inlet membrane which is under the removable plate opposet of the throttle plate.It is a black gasket with a small metal button in the middle. This regulates the fuel supply. If if is still flexable then it is good. Usually they become crisp after sitting for a couple years. Start with a gasket set( 5 to 10 bucks) Then try adjusting your fuel and air mix needles if need be.
Posted on Jun 08, 2009
If this is an old unit, then the diaphragm is probably hardened.
Tests before hand would be:
1. Is the gas fresh and water free?
2. Is the spark-plug clean and snugly fastened?
3. Are you using the correct gas to oil mix ratio in your fuel?
4. yes...yes...yes...= bad diaphragm. Probably less than $5 for the part and a 1/2 hour to replace the part.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
1) Change out the old fuel (not just adding fresh but pouring out the old and replacing it entirely) and check the engine oil.
2) Check muffler and/or spark arrestor screen for restrictions.
3) Clean and reinstall spark plug (check gap).
4) Replace inlet screen INSIDE the carb. (It is located directly under the inlet needle.)
Try each of these as needed.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
Remove the angle drive gearbox near the string head and spin it to see if everything is moving properly. You may have stripped the gears out of it.
Posted on Sep 23, 2012
Hi Kevin Whitaker
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting a bright blue spark at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope...watching the plug for spark.
If you are getting a nice blue spark then skip A below and go to B.
A...If you do not get a nice blue spark then you may need to replace the electronic module.
Note: If you have to replace the module be sure to measure the position it is in, it is critical to starting.
B...Also take some fine grit sandpaper (not emery) and lightly sand the flywheel where the magnet is located to clean any rust or corrosion from the magnet area.
Then follow the procedure below:
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws and weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil if your using a two cycle chainsaw or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture...too much oil as it can cause hard starting and excessive smoking.
If the chainsaw/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indention in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
I will also include a drawing of how the fuel lines connect
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Posted on Oct 15, 2012
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