I have it hooked up to new polk 8 ohm speakers, with a self powered sub. If I go over 50 on the vol dial it will run for aprox 10-15 min, then turns its self off. I let it set for less than a min and I turn it back on and it works fine for another 10 min or so. If I turn the vol down to under 35 or so..OR listen to a movie that has NO loud explosions, or yelling..it does not have this problem. I have had this thing for about a year and a half now..and it never did it before. I it on a new open shelf system. It WAS enclosed before..now it has plenty of room all around it, and now it starts to over heat. I could have understood it before..??
I put a table fan behind it last night and set it on low, and it SEEMS to fix the problem. I dont know if I have a fan that died in the machine its self, or what the problem is? any ideas? Thanks in advance.
No mention of speaker wire size or length but the internal thermal shut down circuit is very sensitive, if even one channel goes into thermal protection it shuts the unit down, quick fix is cans of compressed air for computers and clean the inside of dust the factory set thermal cut off is 39.1 to 43 degrees celcius with an impedence check of not less than 4 ohms, your fan trick sounds like the right start the volume setting is not absolute there fore it may be your units actual voltage, amperage wattage conversion output is at its limit, heat is electronic death take great care to avoid heat, large amps have massive heat sinks your sony is not one of them
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OK what you are saying now is that your speakers are dual voice coil; models? 4 Ohms per Coil? I have always used single 4 Ohm Voice ciol speakers since amps are mostly based on 4 Ohm outputs. but you can get 8 Ohm dual voice coil subs also. With 8 Ohms per coil you can get 4 Ohms if you parallel the wires. What is best for you and will get you the most stable power and still will be in the specs of that amp is to run the amp in BRIDGED MODE running each subs voice coils in series with each other then run those 2 subs in parallel to the amplifier giving it a 4 Ohm load. So, your will have two sets of wires from your amp 1 for each speaker. Then you will take a short piece of wire that will connect the + to the - of each voice coil then hook up the wires from your amp to each sub What it will be is 4 Ohms + 4 Ohms = 8 Ohms per speaker the 8 Ohms in parallel each speaker to the Bridged amp output using just the + from one channel and the - from the other will give you a total of 4 ohms and power out put of 600 Watts so that ends up being 150 watts per voice coil or 300 watts each speaker
No, you don't want to do that. The Ohm output on the amplifier must match the speakers. Run 8 Ohm speakers on 8 Ohm and run all your speakers on the same impedance (Ohms). Your gonna burn your amplifier up if you run different impedances.
It measures in at just under 4 ohms, so assume a 4 ohm speaker. You can replace this with any number of similar subs, using perennial DIY favorite PartsExpress, there are two under $30 that would meet your needs (Dayton SD215-88 and Goldwood GW408). Looks like they both have dual 8 ohm coils, so you would simply wire them in parallel for your application.
do not use those speakers with that amp, those are 4 ohm speakers, which could damage your 8 ohm yamaha amp. you will have to get a 4 ohm capable amp to run the highs, and another 4 ohm amp to run the subs.
car amplifiers are currently 4 ohm, or even 2/1 ohm stable, but few, if any modern receivers can run at anything lower than 8 ohms without a danger of overheating. you may have to get a vintage amp(s), like a 1970's marantz receiver, or a 1980's to early 1990's kenwood power amp, because 4 ohm home amps are pretty scarce nowadays.
whatever amp(s)( you get, verify that they are DEFINITELY 4 ohm stable.
In general higher speaker impedance is safer than lower impedance for the amp. Don't expect anything impressive re: audio output from a passive (unpowered) sub if your HTS says it pushes only 25 watts. Without frequency bandwidth and distortion noted the spec is virtually useless as a comparison.
The BU-1 is a powered sub that accepts either RCA Line Level or HIGH LEVEL amplifier power. If you use the latter, impedance is a non-issue because the input feeds the BU-1's internal amp, not the speaker directly. You should be okay.
Perhaps if we knew some specifics about the HTS we could do more than guess.
You don't name the electronics, which can be the source of the problem. See #3.
1. If you suspect the cable why don't you just swap in another RCA cable? BTW: there's no such thing as a "subwoofer" cable. Monster makes their money on those beliefs. Cables don't wear out but they can go bad if one or more conductors fails. Oxides devolp at either end which can inhibit conductivity. Remove each end and reinsert it with a twisting motion.
2. Maybe. You need to ensure the sub is defined. Run speaker level check. If no sound at the sub, prove the LFE/sub channel has output by running the RCA cable to a recorder or your TV (low volume). If there's no signal, duh, no speaker will work with it.
3. Mmm, not if it's exhibiting the same problem as the old one and the Polk 450. Have you looked at the setting of the Standby/Auto/On Switch? And the Power Mode LED's? Red is bad.
+ output from amp to + input of 4 ohm to + input of 8 ohm AND - output from amp to - input of 4 ohm to - input of 8 ohm is a parallel circuit = 2.66 ohm impedance load for amp
+ output from amp to + on 4 ohm - on 4 ohm to + on 8 ohm - on 8 ohm to - of power amp is a series circuit = 12 ohm impedance load for amp. Clear as mud??
Clear as mud?
can you tell me how your sub is hooked to your amp. is it via the speaker cables or using the amplifier source sub wooker rca connections.
i suppose you have checked all your power cables. if the sub is connected to the amplifier rca output then check the bass sub out level if high enough to drive the auto power switch of sub wfr input. subwoofers normally use an auto power cutoff when no signal. if sub vol level is too low it might not triegger the autopower on.