What settings do i use to test the fuses on my ic board to see if they are working and what kind of readings should I be looking for. Iv had new IC put in but my green is still blurry. Red, Blue I can manually move left right up and down just it will not match the green because its blurry or out of focus. Please help.
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Re: settings on a multimeter
A fuse is just a piece of wire so it has very low resistance. To test it with a multimeter select Ohms and the lowest range. The resistance will be nearly 0 if it's good and very high or infinity if it's bad.
If the set is working at all it's probably not the fuses, though.
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F9A04 and F9A05 are the two picos to test. They are both 5amp pico fuses they will appear lime green and look like resistors without color bands. They are located on the same board as the convergence Ics. Just test them for continuity with a ohms meter.
There is likely a voltage regulator or a diode burned out in the vicinity of the power supply. If you have the schematic, start at the power supply and work through the circuit to the I.C. Also look up the pinout on the internet for that I.C. With the power on test the voltages at each pin on the I.C. You should not have supply voltage readings on any of the signal pins. This is an indication that the I.C. is also burned out. Use a volt ohm meter with a D.C. voltage setting. Also hopefully your meter should have a diode test function. If not you can still test them with the resistance test function.Here is a link to an explanation:http://www.elexp.com/t_test.htm I hope this helps.
The most common reason for this is one of the 2 pico fuses that protect the convergence circuit is blown. Changing the fuses will not help! They are green in color and soldered into the middle circuit board and are F9a04 and F9a05----look like resistors but are 5 amp fuses.
99% chance if one or both are blown---you have to have someone change the STK-393-110 convergence IC that this set uses----the IC can be purchased on Ebay for under 14 dollars and the same seller sells the pico fuses 5 @ 2.95.
The best thing to do here if you or someone you know is able is to unplug the set and look for the fuses---middle board towards the back---there are 5 of them and the two closest to the back of the row are for the convergence IC----If someone checks them (like testing any other fuse) you will know--if either or both is blown--the convergence IC got them.
I have start to finish, step by step instructions and photos of the fuses etc----If you or someone you know can solder and is handy--you may be able to do the repair yourself.
If not, shops usually charge 300-400 for this kind of repair in this set.
Just had new Ic?? Meaning single?? The symptoms you're describing are a convergence failure. That unit takes Stk392-040 Sanyo Ics and be aware there are a ton of Chineese knock-offs out there that can cause you real trouble, so purchase them from only a reputable part distributor... You need to change both amps, test all 3.9 ohm-2w resistors in that circuit, like Rz123 and Rz124 and check Fd102 3.5a pico fuse for open. That's actually a really easy set to work on for convergence problems because the entire convergence amp board is easily removed.
To check the pico fuses you're merely testing for continuity. If you get an infinate reading you're in good shape - if it doesn't budge the meter the fuse is open... That's a really easy set to work on for convergence problems - the convergence board is easily removed..
Another cause for mis-alignment like that are the youke return resistors... There are several out front of the convergence amps that may have changed in value. They are 3.9 ohm - 2w resistors and will look identical to Rz123 and Rz124 (same banding). For those simply select a low ohm setting on the meter and check to see if any of them have some way low or way high reading...
Need anything else just ask...
You must focus to mainboard of LCD monitor find the voltage regulator IC. Voltage test the regulator IC use digital or analog multimeter range 10v dc connect the negative to cold ground, these regulator providing a constant supply of 2.5 - 5v to all IC in the mainboard. check the scalar IC. Because scalar IC will convert analog input signal of Red, Green & Blue. Lastly check the controller board, check the ribbon cable connector from mainboard to
controller board for lose, check the fuse inside controller. I think the exact problem of your monitor could be either the (mainboard) or (LCD panel where the controller board is located).
Sorry no pic, but if you look from back of set on deflection board(board with HV transfromer)big part with about 4 wires coming out going to your picture tubes. Looking close to leftside of board the last IC with heatsink shield standing up has a small 7 pin ic if looking on it you should see TDA8177 or something to that affect. This is the verticle IC. Since you have found the IC's (convergence) then the only thing left is to look for open fuses like 1300, 2004, 1900 etc and see if open. Concerning cost if you buy from www.bluestaronline.com these part are inexpensive so it wouldn't hurt to buy all. Rule of thumb, if set has color problem then Convergence IC, if no problem just went out one day while playing fine then Vertical, then the alternative if no sound the audio area, which is not common for this set. Hope this helps!