My 13 inch delta planer will not feed the stock through the planer. Any suggestions why?

Sounds like the thermistor is killing it. Probably the new brushes are generating too much heat. Did you put them in correctly, so the curved surface matches the armature sleeve?

Do you mean replacing the cutter head drive belt?

With power off start the ribbed belt on the motor pulley, insert allen wrench into cutter head shaft. slowly rotate cutter head while feeding belt onto cutter head pulley. While rotating head, alternate between pulleys feeding it on one rib at a time. Softening the belt in hot water is NOT necessary to install the belt in this fashion.

Complements of
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/delta-22560-type-planer-parts-c-3275_3571_3579.html

Cheers

Billy of Hayward Delta 22 560 Type 1 Planer Parts

With any of these portable planers, the sniping can be a problem that you can minimize. Of course you can use a board longer than you need... but more practically: 1. Take light cuts 2. Make sure your infeed and outfeed tables are at the same height and are parallel to the suface of the machine below the cutter. 3. Provide additional in-feed and out-feed support beyond the little in-feed and out-feed tables to keep your material moving consistently in the same plane from start to finish. you might use support rollers. Take care to get the whole setup adjusted all in one plane. Good luck.

Hello Ken,
The black marks you are seeing are most likely from the rollers that feed the material threw the planner. The marks are left on the board when the board stops but the feed rollers are still spinning.This occurs when the feed table is stickey with items such as pitch. I would clean off the table completly and wax it ( or some type of lube).
Another cause could be the matrial that you are using, if the stock is real rough it will not slide as easy as a smooth board.
I hope this helps.

Shop Dog.

P.S. after waxing or lubing the table run a scrap piece first to wipe off any excess.

My planer does the same thing.

1) I don't make the final cuts on my boards until after planing.

2) I discovered why the planer does this. I don't have a planer table. I use the two metal stands that came with the planer, and they don't really hold the board flat & steady like a planer table would. The planer has 2 rollers >>> one roller is on the feed-end and one roller is on the finished-end. When the end of the board goes past the feed-end roller, it is no longer held flat by two rollers. The weight of the board causes the board to tip up into the planer blade on the last 3 inches. So sometimes I just hold up the end of the board as it finishes ... but it still takes a nip out of the board now and then.

Up-vote if the information helped you. Thanks for the feedback.

Check on www.owwm.com. You will probably find your machine on their and resources to help you in your quest. It's a great site for old tool hounds.

I had this problem with a Grizzly that is chain-driven. One of the links broke. I replaced the link, and it's been fine ever since.

I use denatured alcohol to clean the rollers on my Makita, and it doesn't seem to have harmed them over the years, but I do this infrequently. If your rollers are coated with pitch and or chips they won't feed well, no matter how they're adjusted.
(I don't think this planer has the capability to adjust the spring tension on the rollers, but I could be wrong.) You can consult the manual online at http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/DocumentView.aspx?productid=22538&typeId=7605&documentId=21151
If you can attach dust collection to the planer it will probably help.
Also, the direction of the grain makes a difference when trying to plane boards as dense as poplar, (which has a kind of weedy, roey grain sometimes, that would prefer to tear out.)
For example, if you were feeding the board from right to left of the page, the grain on the side of the board should look like this//////// instead of this\\\\\\, which will have a tendency to tear out and jam the planer. If you can make sure the boards feed through in the right direction, this may solve your problems.
I heartily recommend the wax, as well. And possibly compressed air with a nozzle to blow chips aside.
Also consider the length of the boards and the effect of the drop weight on the planer's rollers if there is not an extension roller in place (or a worker) to hold the board as it makes its pass through the machine.
If you feed the board with the cup side down to begin with, taking light passes to smooth the top face, then flipping it over end over end and feeding the other side in the opposite direction, flattening first one face, then the other, you might have better luck.
Aside from all this, a surface planer isn't a jointer, which is designed to straighten & flatten boards, and portable planers in general won't perform as well as industrial models of the same capacity.
If you will continue to be running a lot of stock through your machine, you might want to consider investing in a used 13" Rockwell or Delta or some such cast iron planer, with rollers top and bottom to facilitate movement of course material. They aren't as portable, but might save time in the long run.
On a final note, there's no replacement for sharp knives. Even the best planer won't drive stock well when the knives get dull.
Best of luck!

If you are trying to remove too much material at one time, this will definetly happen. Try removing less material per pass.