My GE TFX28PB Side-by-side refrigerator shows an FF error light. occasionally, the "Warm Temp" light shows. The fridge side is warm, but the freezer side is cold (although not cold enough to freeze a bottle of water).
I read somewhere it may be the defroster system may have a problem, or maybe the cooling fan. I don't know anything about refrigerators, but I'm very handy with tools, and very DIY inclined. with some guidance, I would be able to fix and replace any part. I have all the necessary tools too (including a multimeter). If you can include a link to a service manual, or some type of illustration or diagnostic guide, that would be very much appreciated (by me and anyone else with this similar problem).
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Re: I have a GE TFX28PB with an FF error light.
FF probably stands for "Frost Free". Yes. Your defrost circuit must have a temp sensor to tell it when the defrost is working. And for your fridge...it isnt.
The warm fridge/barely cold freezer are both common symptoms of extreme frosting of the cooling coils.
You need to manually defrost this unit and replace the defrost element and/or the controller board/power supply. You can buy them pretty cheaply online. Replacement is a lot easier if you just shut off the fridge and let it come to room temp before removing the coil cover.
Go to the GE website and get an online diagram of your fridge so you can see where the parts all reside. If you timer is mechanical it should have a way to manually trigger it to confirm the heater element works. IC based boards need special commands to go manual.....but you should be able to get this info from GE.
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Your refrigerator is getting up in age but I will give you a few things to check. 1st you could have a bad temp control that is actually stuck or out of calibration. All you can do in this case is replace the control.
2nd, this will sound a little strange but I'll try to explain. If you develop a problem with the defrost system, the frz section starts to build up excessive frost. The frost causes loss of air flow to the fresh food side which at first causes the refrigerator to run excessively and you get too cold fresh food temp at first. As the defrost problem continues and more frost builds, eventually the FF temp will start to go the other direction and get too warm.
3rd and the worst case, is that your main cooling motor(compressor) is getting worn out from age. It is a pump that has to circulate the freon. When they get old, its called low capacity and it runs all the time again causing too cold temps at first before going the other direction temp wise. Also check things like the coils under the fridg for dirt build up. You can clean them somewhat from the front under the doors with the crevis tool of a sweeper. With older refrigerators they need all the help you can give them.
You say " all thermistors check fine " , how did you check them ? Did you check for the 5-8 DC volts at the main control board , for the thermistors ? Did you do the diagnostic check for the thermistors from the control panel ? I'm sure you know there are 5 thermistors , since the refrig has the dual evap . Possibly the # 5 is bad , since it is the freezer temp " controller " , yet if it tells the board it's not cold enough , it still sends refrigerant to the refrig evap . Since the refrig evap has 2 fan motors , can't remember if there is a damper there also . Maybe when the # 3 thermistor is satisfied , it only cuts the fans off , even though refrigerant is still going thru the refrig evap .
There are three temp sensors in my GE side-by-side model GSS20IEMDWW
(two in the freezer and one in the fresh food side). Replacing the
temp sensor in the fresh food side was enough to allow the compressor
to finally turn off.
For me, the problem manifested with an iced-over evaporator coil inside
the freezer compartment. Since the compressor never cycled off
(presumably because the temp sensor was providing faulty data about the
temp inside the fresh food side, thus causing it to continually attempt
to cool), the coils were constantly chilled. Eventually the ice on the
coils would block the air flow and the freezer side could no longer
I purchased a pair of inexpensive thermometers from a kitchen store and
put one in the freeze and one in the fresh food side so I could
occasionally look at the temps to see if it made sense for the
compressor to be running - ie, was it really a warm-enough temp for
cooling to be required, or was the computer reading faulty sensor data.
Six months later I also needed to replace both temp sensors in the
freezer compartment. My refrigerator is about seven years old. I would
recommend replacing all of the temp sensors just to rule that out.
We need to have a look at the main control board part number WRO2X11838 Tell me if the compressor is running while no cooling or if stopped. Unplug refrigerator and see if the top of compressor is too hot to keep you hand on. My drawing show the control bord in the area of the compressor and inside a box. Let me know if it has burn marks on both sides. Thanks, Let me know, Sea Breeze
ER FF is a freezer fan error. Basically the mainboard is not receiving a feedback signal from the freezer fan motor within 65 seconds. When this happens the error code will come up and then none of the buttons will work.
You can clear out the error code by unplugging and plugging the machine back in. The error code will come back if the problem persists. Check around the freezer fan motor fan blades to see if ice buildup is interfering with the operation. Clearing out this ice may fix the issue.
If the problem comes back, then the fan motor may be getting ready to go out or the unit may not be defrosting properly.