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I am taking a 6.5 briggs ohv engine apart to find a knocking noise that happens on start up and when mower gets bogged down in heavy grass . sound like connecting rod knock but running without a load sounds great. I need the specks for connecting rod torque, valve clearance settings and instructions for reassembly

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CHECK YOUR FLYWHEEL KEY FIRST also check to see if your blade is loose, sounds like a timing knock to me

Posted on Sep 14, 2009

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Your mower doesn't have enough power to handle very thick grass at high speed. You need to go slower across the lawn. That's easy to do if this is a push mower (just don't walk so fast) or if it's a self-propelled model with a speed control. But if it's a single-speed model you'll have to mow the lawn in fits and starts: squeeze the lever to move it forward; release it when you hear it bogging down; wait for the motor to reach full speed; squeeze the lever to move it forward again; repeat. Also, is the grass very high? If so, try setting the cutting height higher on the first pass, then lower it for a second pass. Finally, make sure the blade is sharp.

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There is the possibility that the valves need adjusting. As you probably know, if they are too far out of adjustment, starting will be difficult and there will be "runnability" issues. The Briggs OHV engines all have adjustable overhead valves. Just remove the little cover stamped OHV, careful with the thin gasket behind it and get a feeler gauge, possibly a Torx head driver and box wrench to do the job. Some of the set screws for the rocker arms have slotted heads maybe. The Briggs site has the instructions for this and ALL the specs on all their engines pertaining to valve clearance on intake and exhaust. Many of their OHV engines also incorporate a compression release feature which correct valve adjustment is critical for it's correct operation. If you need more help or links to the Briggs help (under FAQ), then post back.
Most Briggs OHV engines are set at 1/4" past TDC on the power stroke. Many adjust them at TDC (with both valves closed), but for the sake of the compression release (works off the cam), Briggs specifies 1/4" below TDC on Power Stroke.

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i gess you busted the crack shaft push rod so the piston is not now moving up and down the bore
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Your engine is about to blow. That knocking sound is indicative of a connecting rod bearing out of tolerance. This condition never gets better; it'll finish out by breaking the endcap on the rod, and usually puts a hole in the block. Sometimes, it can be caused by a bolt coming loose from the endcap, and I've had success by taking it apart and tightening the bolt, fixing the problem for at least several years. This can only be done if there isn't any deformation from it knocking.

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you can remove the cover on the valves and turn the engine slowly to see if the valves are closing. Otherwise you have a piston problem.

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