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Our freezer part of our beko cda556f fridge/freezer is not freezing properley, what can we do to fix this issue or do we need a new fridge/freezer?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

peyton32034
  • 410 Answers

SOURCE: beko cda653f

I'm not familiar with this brand of refrigerator but sounds as if you have a defrost system failure. most refrigs have a defrost timer that you can maually advance into defrost. if you can loate this on the unit then advance into defrost cycle if the heater comes on youll hear a sizzling noise from the ice melting on the heater. this means you have a bad timer. if the heater does not come on then you have a bad heater or defrost termination switch. I tried to find some service info for this mod but was unable to locate anything. good luck peyton

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Fridge freezer running continualy, freezer cold

both freezer and fridge part not working fridge seems to be on, there is a click sound on every so often however 30seconds later another click sound is heard turning off something.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Beko frost free fridge freezer but the

have you checked the door seals, if it has split it won`t freeze 100% as warm air will get in and keep the temperature up, bit like leaving the door slowly open hth

Posted on Oct 12, 2009

  • 523 Answers

SOURCE: Fridge/freezer not working

check the condensor fan if that aint it unit may be low on charge

Posted on May 05, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: BEKO AB910 Frost Free Fridge/Freezer Ice build up

I have the same model + problem. You should not need to defrost this model manually if it's working correctly, but the ice build up you describe is probably due to a blocked pipe in the auto-defrost system at the back. You need to defrost properly to prevent recurrence.

Behind the upper freezer drawer there's an aluminium tray behind a plastic grille. Every few days this tray warms up to melt any accumulated ice behind this plastic grille (full height of the freezer). A pipe should take the meltwater down to a plastic tray below (pipe + plastic tray are visible if you take the lower panel off the back). Your problem is too much ice blocking that pipe: the heater can't cope and it doesn't melt, so the ice 'cascades' down the back behind the bottom drawer.

When you manually defrost, you must ensure that this pipe is clear, otherwise the auto-defrost won't work, and you may have to defrost manually again within days.

I have found that the best way to defrost the pipe is to remove the lower back panel, disconnect the corrugated flexible plastic pipe from the stub that comes from the bottom of the freezer, + pump steam into the stub (gently) using a hand-held steamer (with tube + nozzle). You don't have to empty the freezer or move your food as the door stays closed, and no steam gets into the freezer until the pipe is unblocked. Be sure to unplug the freezer before taking the back off! [There is a fan in this area that could start up without warning]

Check how much of the pipe is blocked by gentle probing with a pencil: the aluminium tray is about 105mm above the bottom of the stub. This measurement is important…

When the pipe is clear, there may still be too much ice in the aluminium tray above (not sure how much is 'too much') if you only created a narrow 'chimney' though the block of ice (likely to get blocked again). You need to widen that chimney by melting more of the ice in the aluminium tray. I use a simple steam nozzle made from an old-fashioned Bic pen with a couple of 1mm holes drilled just below the coloured bung at the end. This directs steam onto the walls of the 'chimney' rather than upwards.

There's no point steaming the walls of the plastic 'stub' pipe, so only use the home-made nozzle when your probe reaches 105mm (i.e. when you have melted all the ice in the plastic stub tube but before your 'chimney' has broken through the block of ice in the aluminium tray). If you judge this right, you'll melt almost all of the ice under a still-frozen top surface: no steam will get into the freezer and your food will stay frozen. With a probe it will be clear when you've broken through the top surface of the ice. When you have done so, it's time to look inside the freezer to see how well you have cleared the aluminium tray.

It's perfectly feasible to get all this done in 30 minutes.

Don't forget to replace the corrugated plastic pipe + valve at the bottom. It stops humid air from going into the freezer and icing up in exactly the area we've just been defrosting.

Take a lot of care with steam jets as they can burn you badly. You should check a first aid website so you know what to do BEFORE it happens.

Some of these tips may be helpful: (1) run the freezer at -18 degrees (the 'warmest' setting) so it's not working so hard. (2) Leave a big gap (>100mm) between the back of the freezer and the wall. (3) Clean the matrix of delicate tubes to the left of the fan whilst you have the back off [a small bottle brush is ideal; remove the fan for better access]. (4) Put something between the middle of the freezer and the wall to prevent the warm air that's being blown out behind the fridge from being sucked into the air intake behind the freezer (there is a baffle built in underneath, but nothing behind. (5) Mount the fan on spacers (with longer screws) so that it's closer to the heat exchanger… this means that a larger area of grille can act as an air intake. (6) Raise the unit off the floor a little to free up the air intake path beneath the freezer.

Posted on May 10, 2010

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1 Answer

Beko tda531w


First thing is do not put product all the way back in the refer box. There has to be room for the air to circulate around in the fresh food compartment. If you restrict the flow, the very cold air will concentrate as it comes out of the freezer and "Bingo", you have a really large freezer now...

That is very very likely the fix on this. If not, post it again and we can go to step 2. Lets keep it simple though. This is not rocket science.

kindly,

Jim

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have you checked the door seals, if it has split it won`t freeze 100% as warm air will get in and keep the temperature up, bit like leaving the door slowly open hth

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Sorry I don't have a solution for you, however would like to know if you found out what was wrong. I have an identical problem with my Beko fridge/freezer. It's only 14 months old and the freezer just wont freeze. I've turn it off for 24 hour and let it defrost completely (even had the panel off to make sure there was no ice left). I've turned it back on again and it still wont freeze. Everything seems ok, ie fan blowing, motor running etc. I really am beginning to regret buying Beko. thanks

Apr 12, 2009 | Freezers

1 Answer

Beko cda653f


I'm not familiar with this brand of refrigerator but sounds as if you have a defrost system failure. most refrigs have a defrost timer that you can maually advance into defrost. if you can loate this on the unit then advance into defrost cycle if the heater comes on youll hear a sizzling noise from the ice melting on the heater. this means you have a bad timer. if the heater does not come on then you have a bad heater or defrost termination switch. I tried to find some service info for this mod but was unable to locate anything. good luck peyton

Jan 21, 2009 | Freezers

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AS A FRIDGE ENGINEER I HAVE COME ACROSS THIS PROBLEM BEFORE IT COULD BE A LOSS OF REFRIGERANT ALTHOUGH THIS WOULD STEADILY WORSEN IN USE,MORE LIKELY THERE IS A BLOCKAGE IN THE SYSTEM STOPPING THE REFRIGERANT REACHING ALL THE PIPEWORK THE CHEAPER FREEZERS USE THE SHELFS AS PART OF THE FREEZING SYSTEM.
THE ONLY SOLUTION IS A COMPRESSOR CHANGE AND REGAS (COSTLY IF NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY/GUARANTEE ETC)

IF FREEZER IS MORE THAN 5 YRS OLD BEST TO SCRAP IT UNFORTUNATELY..

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