Question about Kenmore 92002 / 92004 Kitchen Range

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Inner part of Triple element on 790.9912940 won't turn on

I just experienced the same problem I've been reading about here and on other appliance repair sites: the inner element of my Kenmore Elite's front-right triple element will not turn on, despite the control panel saying it's "on." The range is about 2 years old, just like many other people have said. Also, Sears naturally wants to charge $65 to even come look at the part, and then several hundred more for a new element.

From reading other comments and after talking to Sears, it seems like there is no extra warranty or recall on this part. This triple element is apparently a defective design if I can find so many reports of this exact same issue with only a cursory Google search. Would not have bought Kenmore anyway if it hadn't come with the house, because I've heard of this kind of thing with them far too often, despite their obvious good looks and nifty features... I'd rather not have to spend hundreds of dollars just to keep my $1.2k range working properly - for that price it should have a 5-year warranty at least in my opinion.

I'm going to see about removing the element and putting in a new one on my own, as getting the part itself (Sears Direct Part Number 316216702) is only about double the cost of getting a technician to come out in the first place.

You can see a handy part diagram of the range top at this link, by the way:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http%3a%2f%2fc.searspartsdirect.com%2flis_png%2fPLDM%2fR0610001-00003.png

The element that has failed on my range is part 15B in the diagram.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 311 Answers

SOURCE: The inner right front element

inner element burned out. Either burner needs replacing or control switch is bad. Take out burner and see if coil has a break in it. IF not, then switch is bad. I cannot see your repyl due to some tech issue w/ the site, so it may be a day or so before I can reply again. Please leave feedback for me if appropriate. Thanks

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Front right (6IN) radiant element went bad

Congrats on your troubleshooting efforts. The element you speak of is called a "dual element". Unfortunately, you can only purchase it as an entire assembly. This is a fairly simple repair that you should be able to perform yourself. Just follow these steps:

First, please review your Warranty Information. Most warranties DO NOT cover cosmetics. That is, if your cooktop paint starts to wear off, most manufacturers will not replace it. Warranties also DO NOT cover accidents such as dropping something on the top and breaking it. Warranties DO cover blistering, warping and heat related breakage (if you are using the recommended cookware). This is why it is important to follow all the manufacturer's use and care instructions that come with your range. I know this does not include ALL manufacturers, but this is true with most.

I would recommend you have someone assist as this should be a two-person repair job. Please read through the instructions carefully before starting the repairs, and follow any safety recommendations.

1. UNPLUG the range before servicing. There are dangerous voltages still present even with elements turned off.

2. There are a few screws located under the front edge of the cook top. You will need to open the oven door to see them. Remove these screws and the top should lift up. If the range is not equipped with any kind of hinge supports, the top will have to be propped up.

3. On some ranges, there is a disconnect plug for the surface element wiring harness. If you have this feature, you can unplug the entire top panel and move it to flat surface to work on it.
If not, you will have to prop the top panel up.
NOTE: If moving the cooktop to another work surface, place the whole cook top assembly face-down on a soft surface (like some old towels, or a blanket).

4. Remove the defective surface element by disconnecting the terminal plug wires. Make sure you label them.

5. Next, locate the two tabs that hold the element in place. Take note of the numbers that the tabs are inserted into. These are alignment marks and you will need to install the new element in the same manner. Take a pair of pliers and slightly bend these tabs by turning them so you can remove the element. NOTE: You may have to remove the bracket guard that holds the element in place. If so, leave the bracket face down when you remove the screws. This leaves the existing good element from being moved around and reduces the risk of damaging it. Lift the bracket up slightly,and slide the defective element out.

6. Remove the old element and discard. Install the new element making sure you handle with care. They are very fragile. Care also must be taken not to handle the element coils or ceramic material. Try to handle from the underside of the element only. Oil from your hands can cause damage to the element and/or premature failure. NOTE: Ensure you use the same alignment marks.

7. With the element installed, lock the tabs in place and install the wire connectors. Reinstall the screws on the bracket guard.

8. Lower the cook top back into place and secure with screws.

If you have questions along the way, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

PS You may experience a bit of smoking when you turn on the new element for the first time. This is normal.

Posted on Jun 29, 2009

RED92JEEPER
  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: I have the same problem with the inner coil.

their is no aftermarket element just oem element as far as the repair manual they have a service manual for it

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: Sears Kenmore Elite Oven 790.99123405 Caught Fire!!!

The PF indicates a power failure.
The range experienced a loss of electrical power.
This code is usually cleared by pressing the CLEAR/OFF button.
If you continue to get this code, you may need to unplug the range and check the wiring connections of the power cord on the back of the range.


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Posted on Sep 23, 2010

  • 417 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore 96313402 range keeps tripping the

There are 2 reasons why a breaker trips one is overcurrent i.e. the current flowing thru is greater than its rated capacity or if there is an earthfault causing the same condition. You have to establish which it is.

From what you say it would seem as if the total current exceeds that of the breaker capacity. In which case you can either ensure not all elements are used at the same time or up rate your circuit and breaker.

Posted on Dec 14, 2010

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Surface Element Switch If the surface element won't work, and there is another element of the same size on the stove, try switching the elements. If it still won't work, the surface element switch is probably defective. The surface element switch can't be tested or repaired, it will have to be replaced.

Surface Element Board If a surface element won't work the surface element board might be defective. Each burner is switched on and off with the help of a relay on the surface element board. If one or more relays has failed the surface element won't work. If two or more burners fail at the same time, this is likely the problem. If only one surface element won't work and the element itself checks out to be good, the surface element board might be defective.

Coil Surface Element If the surface element won't work, the coil surface element might be burned out. Most coil surface elements can be pulled out of their socket and checked with an Ohm meter for continuity. If the surface element won't work, check to see if there is any visible damage to the coils. Also, check to be sure the element is pushed all the way into the socket.

Radiant Surface Element The most common cause when the surface element won't work is the radiant surface element itself. The radiant surface element - or heating element - can burn out similar to a light bulb. If the surface element won't work and it doesn't have continuity, it will need to be replaced. The radiant surface element is not repairable.

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Terminal Block If a surface element won't work, there may be a problem at the terminal block. The appliance has a power cord which is attached to a terminal block. Over time, the connections at the terminal block can fail and burn open. When this happens, normally all of the surface elements won't work. The solution is to replace any burned wires and replace the terminal block.

Loose or Burnt Wire Connection If surface element won't work, there might be a burnt wire supplying power to the surface element. Sometimes the wire supplying power to the element burns out right near the element itself. Check for this by just looking at the wires leading to the element. If they're burned out it is usually easy to spot.
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