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What is the valve clearance on 5 hp engine mod 12H802-2349-B1 I"m installing a new valve seat on the intake the old one just came lose and fell out there is zero on the exhuast side, I'm at 18 thousands right now for intake

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  • firehead May 11, 2010

    Brand of Engine and model #

  • kerry littleton May 11, 2010


  • kerry littleton May 11, 2010

    what make of motor????

  • kerry littleton May 11, 2010

    what make of engine?



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valve clearance(cold)
intake 0.005 to 0.007inch
exhaus 0.007 to 0.009inch


Posted on Sep 23, 2009


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Clogged PCV Valve
The main purpose of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is to recirculate blow-by gases back from the crankcase area through the engine to consume unburned hydrocarbons. Blow by is a mixture of air, gasoline and combustion gases forced past the rings on the combustion stroke. The PCV system usually has a tube leading from the crankcase to the carburetor or intake manifold. Vacuum within the engine intake manifold pulls blow by gases out of the crankcase into the combustion chamber along with the regular intake of air and fuel.
Worn Piston Ring Grooves
For piston rings to form a good seal, the sides of the ring grooves must be true and flat - not flared or shouldered - and the rings must have the correct side clearance in the grooves. Normally, automotive ring groove side clearance should not exceed .002-.004. As the pistons move up and down, the rings must seat on the sides of the grooves in very much the same way that valves must seat to prevent leakage. New rings in tapered or irregular grooves will not seal properly and, consequently, oil will pass around behind the rings into the combustion chamber. Worn grooves are usually flared or tapered causing increased side clearances which permit more than the normal amount of oil to pass the rings into the combustion chamber. Excessive side clearances also create a pounding effect by the rings on the sides of the piston grooves. This promotes piston groove wear and, if the condition is not corrected, breakage of rings lands may occur.
Cracked or Broken Ring Lands
Cracked or broken ring lands prevent the rings from seating completely on their sides and cause oil pumping by a process similar to that described in #7. In addition to this, they also lead to serious damage to the cylinders as well as complete destruction of the pistons and rings. Cracked or broken ring lands cannot be corrected by any means other than piston replacement and this should be done as soon as there is the slightest indication of a crack.
Worn Valve Stems and Guides
When wear has taken place on valve stems and valve guides, the vacuum in the intake manifold will draw oil and oil vapor between the intake valve stems and guides, into the intake manifold and then into the cylinder where it will be burned. If this condition is not corrected when new piston rings are installed, an engine is likely to use more oil than it did before because the new piston rings will increase the vacuum in the intake manifold. When gum or deposits on the valve stems are removed - a procedure recommended when overhauling an engine - the seal previously formed will be removed and leakage will be more pronounced. This is particularly true on overhead valve engines where loss of oil may occur on the exhaust valves as well as on the intake valves. High oil consumption caused by too much valve guide clearance can frequently be cured by reaming or nerraling the valve stem. In some cases new valves may also be required. Use of a permanently bonded valve stem seal will give added insurance against oil leakage on complete engine overhauls or on valve jobs. Large Oil Leaks Leaking valve cover gaskets, leaking crankshaft front and rear seals.

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22R and 22R-E
See Figures 3, 4, 5 and 6

  1. Start the engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
  2. Turn the engine OFF . Remove the air cleaner and housing, along with the hot air and cold air intake ducts.

CAUTION Components will be hot. The engine head, block and radiator will be very hot.

  1. Remove any other hoses, cables, or wires attached to the valve cover. The valve cover (or cylinder head cover) is the domed steel item with the oil filler in it.
  2. Remove the small nuts holding the valve cover, then lift the cover off. Retrieve the rubber gasket and put it aside; it can be reused if not damaged or crushed out of shape. Beware of hot oil dripping from the inside of the cover.
  3. Use a large wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt to turn the engine clockwise until the timing mark on the pulley to 0 on the scale. Turning the engine will be easier if the spark plugs are removed, but this is not required.

CAUTION Do not attempt to align the engine by using the ignition switch to turn the engine. Doing will splash hot oil onto everything in the area, including you.

  1. Check that the rockers on No.1 cylinder are loose and the rockers on No.4 are under tension. (No.1 is closest to the radiator; No. 4 is closest to the firewall.) If this is true, the engine is aligned with No.1 piston at top dead center. If it is not true, turn the engine one full revolution clockwise and realign the timing mark at zero; recheck the rockers.
  2. Adjust the clearance 0.008 in. (0.20mm) intake and 0.012 in. (0.30mm) exhaust. Insert a feeler gauge and check for proper clearance between the top of the valve stem and the bottom of the rocker arm on the No. 1 intake valve. To adjust, loosen the locknut on the end of the rocker arm and turn the adjusting screw until the clearance is correct. Tighten the locknut and recheck the clearance; there should be a slight drag felt when the feeler gauge is pulled through the gap. Repeat the procedure for No 1 exhaust, No 2 intake and No. 3 exhaust.

Fig. Fig. 3: Adjust the clearance of half the valves, do the arrowed ones first


Fig. Fig. 4: Use a gauge to measure the distance between the stem and the rocker arm


Fig. Fig. 5: Hold the adjusting screw in position, then tighten the locknut

  1. Turn the crankshaft pulley one full rotation clockwise until the marks align at 0 and for the remaining valves.

Fig. Fig. 6: Adjust the second set of valves the same as the first

  1. Clean the valve cover thoroughly with a lint-free rag. Wipe any oil off the cylinder head edges in the area of the valve cover gasket.
  2. Fit the gasket into the valve cover, making sure it is not crimped or twisted. If the half-moon rubber plugs came out of the valve cover, clean them and apply sealant to the part of the plug contacting the valve cover; install the half-moon plug.

The use of sealants on the valve cover gasket is not recommended.
  1. Install the valve cover onto the head. Make certain is squarely seated and not pinching any adjacent wires or cables.
  2. Install the valve cover retaining nuts. Tighten them to 43-60 inch lbs. (5-7 Nm) This is little more than finger-tight; overtightening will deform the cover and cause leaks.
  3. Connect the lines, hoses and cables which were removed for access. Make certain electrical and ignition wires are firmly held by their clips or brackets.
  4. Install the air cleaner with the hoses and duct work.
  5. If still in place, remove the wrench and socket from the crankshaft pulley.

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I have worked on many gx160 engines and have found that the most economical way to repair an engine with worn valves/guides is to replace the complete head with a clone usually available on ebay for around 60 bucks or so. A honda gx runs perfect with a new clone head. To repair the head properly you need special tools to cut/shape re-seat etc. Then when you consider the cost of honda parts and the chance of making an error, well even the best small engine mechanics make bad calls. However on the other hand, there is great pleasure in rebuilding an engine that has given you great service. Small engine parts/supply outlets like Rotary inc. sell valve guide cutter kit that comes with instructions. You should also use new valves and cut the valve seats.(another kit) If all you want is a great running motor, consider the clone head. Good Luck on your project.

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