Question about Amana 22.6 cu. ft. Side-By-Side Refrigerator with FrontFill Ice and Water

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Amana fridge/freezer compressor problem

I have an Amana side-by-side unit w/ through-door ice, cold water etc. Can't get at the plate just now so I don't know the model, but it's about a 1991 vintage. I went in the kitchen one night and heard the condenser fan running but not the compressor. Just then something clicked; the overhead light dimmed for a few seconds and the compressor hummed, then the thermal cutout tripped. A few minutes later, the cutout reset and the lights dimmed etc. This cycle repeats over and over. Is it more likely to be a start-capacitor problem, or that the compressor is locked up? What can I do about this? Would a 'hard start kit' be worthwhile?

P.S. Every fridge, freezer, and A/C that has ever existed in this house has used R22 refrigerant, yet I keep seeing references to R12 being use in fridges / freezers etc. Which one is more common?

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Unplug unit.

It's not possible to tell which without replacing the starting system. Hard start kit would be fine. RCO410 is common. If it starts the unit the next check would be an ampmeter clamped onto one of the power leads. The ampmeter for refrigerators of that age may read around 2-5 amps when running. If it's much higher than 5 Amps after it's running be prepared to replace the compressor. Maybe it won't quit today...but it won't last with high amperage. If it doesn't start with this kit you need compressor.

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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LEAKING WATER UNDER CRISPERS, NOT COLD


Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer

Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out.
Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor.
However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick.
Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also.
Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.

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Have an Amana fridge, 22.6 cu ft, 12 years old, side-by-side, water/ice on door. Freezer quit working over a 3 day period. All the food thawed. Not sure if the fridge part is getting warmer also -- not...


Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing thencheck out the last two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

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It sounds like the condenser coils , the coils by the compressor , need cleaned badly . This (and the compressor cooling fan) , can cause the compressor to cut off on overload (due to the heat) , thereby not circulation refrigerant thru out the freezer coils .
The water line goes from inside the freezer door ( cold ) , under the refrig ( warm ) , then to the inside refrig water reservoir ( cold ) . After that , you should get cold water , until the reservoir is drained of cold water .

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First of all the worst thing you can do is set your fridge on the highest setting even though it has it. That's live reving your car to the red line just because it has it. As far as your challenge is concerned, it sounds like a breach in the seal of the fridge or dispenser. Check to see if the ice despenser is closing properly after use and check the door seal to make sure it's closing tight when the door is closed. To do this, simply inspect it for any bad wrinkles, cracks, folds, etc. if none are visible close the door on a dollar bill and make sure it holds securly all the way around the door. I f it doesn't, the seal may need to be replaced and/or the door is warped. If you continue to have issues, post again, we will work this out.

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1 Answer

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Thre is a fan inside the freezer which circulates the cold air around both the fridge and the freezer compartments.
You should be able to feel cold air blowing around the inside, particularly at the top of the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat fails open, the internal fan (depending on freezer) will stop and this can be the cause of the freezer being warm at the top and no ice.
You say the bottom of the freezer is blowing cold, but are you sure its blowing, as it can feel like a cold blow. Of course the fan could have failed or may be the defrost heater itself.
Have a look at this site for some useful trouble shooting
And a good site for troubleshooting and general info
Refrigeration Help Section, Fridges, refrigerators, not cold enough, frost free problems and how to test, noisy fan motors, clicking on and off compressors, door gaskets
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