Question about GE Profile JS998 Kitchen Range
I have the exact same problem with my stove - over night the display went dead - no oven light either when the door is opened. What is the part number of the power board that is mentioned. Any tips on how to replace it? Thank you!
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's either a problem in the board or one of the elements is shorted to ground. Most likely one of the relays on the board is bad so the board would have to be replaced. If you have a multimeter you can check this. Unplug the range and take the back panel off to get to the elements. Take one wire off of each of the elements. Set meter to ohms to check resistance. Put one meter lead on one end of the element (where you disconnected the wire) and the other lead to ground. If that shows resistance then the element is shorted to ground. Do this with both elements. If neither element is grounded then replace the oven control board.
Posted on Oct 10, 2007
SOURCE: Wall Oven No Power
yes the oven thermal fuse blew when the fan went off its also called a tco switch if you pull out the oven and take the top off there will be a tech sheet there that will give the location of the tco some are on top some are on back this can also happen if the oven is too tight in the cabinet not enough room around it to let the heat dissipate its a round metal disc with two wires on it
Posted on Jan 30, 2008
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
The TCOs you need to be concerned usually with have all black or white wires only. Please reply with photos of your interior if you have questions.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's likely a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
Sounds like you are only getting 120 volts. All heating elements require 240 volts to operate. Start by taking the covers off the back of the range and looking for loose or burnt off wires. Look first at were the range cord connects onto the range. If all OK with range wires, check wires inside range receptacle (where the range cord plugs in) and also the connections on the household circuit breaker or fuses. If you use a meter to test for 240, you may see it, but if a connection is poor, it may not be good enough to supply the required power.
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
I didn't catch the first line in my first response "Lost power, now oven won't work and display shows..." I am 99.999% sure when the power company restored your power they hit you with a surge that wiped out the low voltage transformer on your ERC (main oven control board). Call your power company and report it. I doubt they will cover the cost to repair but they should! Can't hurt to ask and have them file a claim
Posted on Dec 18, 2008
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