I just got a used Xl-115 air purifier. When I turn it on in automatic mode the ozone generator does not activate. Is it supposed to come on right away? I would assume my currently un-purified air would cause the ozone generator to activate immediately and stay on until the proper ozone levels are achieved. ?? It does not make a difference what room size setting I have it on. When I switch to manual mode it starts hissing and I smell the ozone immediately. I'm just not sure if something is wrong with it or the automatic mode only turns on the ozone once in awhile. Help. Thanks
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Re: Xl-115 Automatic setting not working?
Your sensor board has failed , a realy common problem , most if not all are dead and no parts are made for it ...... you do not need the sensor anyway it was only installed as a knee **** reaction to fda worrys of ozone levels over 0.05 ppm in bedrooms . so the board was installed to cut at 0.05 ...... it was a failure , so a bypass switch was added to get around the problem board ... just set on man , adjust for your sq ft ... you will be fine
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Easy. You need new plates in the machine. They cost about $15 a piece. Google 'ozone plates for XL-15' & sources will come up on where to buy them. Remember to clean the plates every 30-45 days w/ 50-50 solution of ammonia & water & a tooth brush on these plates. Dry thoroughly w/ hair dryer before putting back in machine.
the UV lamp does produce some ozone .. this one specifies .04 ppm .. thats not very much but might be detectable as a slight fresh air odor .. some other types use electrostatic filtering and some even have strong ozone generators .. ozone does kill bacteria, fungus and such and will freshen the air removing many odors but is not considered healthy in large or concentrated amounts or for prolonged periods .. the UV lamp will also kill bacteria and fungus without producing so much ozone.
Purifying Method: Photoplasma, UV, ions, and ozone.
You might be able to fix them.
There a couple of things that can go wrong with these units, dirty plates, bad contacts, and bad reostat.
The ozone is generated by the purification plates. They should be cleaned once a month with a solution of one part amonia and one part tap water. Use a soft bristle brush like an old toothbrush and scrub the metal contacts on the plates with the amonia solution. Be sure to do both sides. Allow them to sit with the solution for 10 minutes, then rinse off with tap water and allow it to dry completely.
There is a couple of metal strips that make contact with the purification plate. Check the contact strips and wires for corrosion. The metal strips can also be cleaned with the amonia solution as well.
The reostat is the part that attaches to the control knob that sets the purification levels. Sometimes it can go bad. The easilest way to check them is to use a meter and verify that as the knob is turned that the resistance changes with the position of the knob.
The Classic XL-15 should have 2 individual indicator lights. The 'red' light is the ionizer indicator, and the 'green' light is the ozone level indicator. Both lights should be illuminated, if the unit is operating properly. The red light should be pulsing, and the green light should be dimly lit, and brightened as the output knob is turned up - indicating a higher ozone production. If the green light is not lit, you likely won't smell the ozone. The first thing you should try, is cleaning the filter and glass ozone plate. Unplug the unit and remove the rear air filter. Clean the filter with clean water and allow to COMPLETELY air dry. Removed the glass plate by depressing the lever behind the glass plate, and gently pulling it out. Clean the glass with a half water, half ammonia (or distilled white vinegar, if ammonia not available) and an old toothbrush to clean between the mesh. Dry plate with a hair dryer and re-place plate into unit. Replace dried air filter, making sure the little tab on the bottom is secured into the interlock. Power the unit on and you should see the indicator lights and smell the fresh ozone!
You can pull off the rear filter, pull the ozone plates, defeat the safety interlock, turn the unit on, and place a screw driver (holding the plastic handle) one one of the ozone bars, and try to make an arc between the screwdriver and the other bar.
If you get an arc, the ozone plates are dirty. Clean well with a brush and sudsy ammonia. If no arc, either the hv transformer is bad, the main circuit board is bad, or the ozone control is bad.
There's one other thing you can check: The two wires that connect to the ozone bars can arc to the chassis sometimes. You can inspect the insulation on those wires to make sure it is intact.
...and so you should be! Worried, I mean. And not just about this particular machine. Ozone is an atmospheric pollutant (good news up in the stratosphere - bad news down here where we breathe it) and primary irritant of mammalian airways. It is a powerful oxidizer of organic matter, so it kills bacteria (good news) and can adversely affect anything else organic that it comes into contact with - leather, rubber, and you (bad news).
Personally, writing as a qualified chemist and biologist, I would not want to be in the same house as an ozone generator, let alone be in the same room as one.
If you really feel the need to "purify" your air. Do it without generating a toxic impurity!