Question about Whirlpool GR465LXLS Electric Kitchen Range

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The left front element shorted out and was replaced and now won't function or heat up with any element plugged into it. I already inspected the plug assemply that the elenent plugs into and its in perfect condition

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 19,396 Answers

Hi.

Your problem had been reposted.

If you have not fixed the problem yet do the following:


Check the element wiring and the temperature probe.

The temperature probe is tested reading Ohms at its terminals. At tem room it must return about 1,1 KHohms.

Posted on Dec 09, 2009

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I have a Performa Maytag dryer it will sometimes turn on run a few seconds and then cut off and it will do this in consistently as I left it plugged in and left it on it was run and then cut off run and...


DRYER OVERHEATING:

Heating Element
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.

Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.

Cycling Thermostat
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.

Felt Seal
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.

Blower Wheel
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m5NZvY9V5Q

Feb 20, 2015 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Breaker trips when heat goes on all other function are fine.....should I replace the heater's element?


heaters are normally on a independent breaker,inspect the element,any wiring .is the breaker the right size?possible short in switch are thermastat.may want a heat and air guy to look at that.

Jan 25, 2015 | Pool & Spa

1 Answer

We have a JennAire model CP220W-C01 cooktop. We use the old coil type heating elements. There was a flash and smoke from the right front element. A repairperson replaced the connector, only to have it blow...


Unplug the element from the receptacle and then disconnect the receptacle from the point where it plugs into the stove. Now, carefully, turn on power to this heating element. If nothing happens then you have removed the likelihood of a problem in the large portion of the stove's wiring. Next, plug the receptacle cable back into the stove without connecting the heating element. Again, carefully turn on the power to the heating element in question. If there is no spark then the cable, connector and receptacle are ok. If it does spark, replace the receptacle and cable assembly. No spark, then inspect the heating element where it connects to the receptacle. Look for melting or signs of damaged insulation that would allow for a "dead short". If you see damage to the element then replace the element. No damage, clean the connections with a toothbrush, and plug the element back in and turn on the juice. If it sparks again, replace the element. Good luck and be careful. Don't attempt any of this if you are inexperienced in working with electricity. 220 Volts can cause death or serious injury... just the flash from an arc can cause blindness and burns.

Nov 05, 2013 | Jenn-Air Cooktops

1 Answer

Heater will not shut off it will run 24hrs. even when temp. is above heater setting


seethis procedure and fix it. God bless you
    • 1 Connect the test leads to your DMM. Insert the black lead in the black "common" socket and push the red lead in the red socket labeled "volts, ohms, milliamperes." Set the function switch on your DMM to the "ohms" function.
    • 2 Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove the space heater's back cover and disconnect the power cord from the switch and heating element
    • 3 Check the power cord for a broken wire. Touch one test probe to first one blade, then the other blade on the plug and then touch the other probe to the other end of the power cord. If the wire is working, there should be an indication of 0.00 to 0.5 ohms between each blade on the plug and a different end of the power cord. If the meter indicates "O.L." on one or both sides of the cord, the wire is defective. Most often, the wire will be broken right at the molded plug or inside the plug. The easiest way to fix this problem is to replace the cord set.
    • 4 Check between the two sides of the power cord for a 0.00 to 0.5 ohms reading indicating a short between the two sides of the line cord. If the heater tripped a circuit breaker, there is a short circuit somewhere in the heater wiring. Shorts in a power cord usually occur inside the molded plug. The short could be inside the cord set, if it has been pinched or cut. Fix by replacing the cord set.
    • 5 Check the thermostatic switch by placing one test probe on each of the switch terminals. Turn the switch slowly through its complete range. The DMM should indicate a continuous 0.00 to 0.5 ohms throughout the switch's full range of movement. An "O.L." indication here indicates a faulty switch, and you need to replace it. The reason that a functional switch could read 0.5 ohms and not 0.00 ohms is that some DMMs read their internal fuse's resistance.
    • 6 Check the heating element for an open circuit or short circuit. A typical radiant heating element will have a resistance of roughly 15 to 30 ohms. A burned out heating element will read "O.L." and need to be replaced. A reading significantly lower than 15 ohms indicates a shorted or partially shorted heating element, and it needs to be replaced.
    • 7 Reconnect the wires that you disconnected earlier and plug the heater in. Check the blower motor voltage if the heating element gets hot but the fan does not work. This is the only test that you will have to make with the heater plugged in, so use caution here.
    • 8 Set the DMM for "AC volts" and touch the test probes to the motor leads. A reading of 115 volts here indicates a defective fan motor, and you need to replace it.

Sep 30, 2012 | Comfort Zone CZ1500WC Infra-Red...

1 Answer

I replaced fuse, high limit thermostat and thermal cut off, still heater does not cycle on and off, just gets hotter and hotter., is this the thermistor or something bigger?


I would first check to see if the heating element is shorted out. When the vent or blower housing of the dryer get built up with a lot of lint the dryer won't vent out the heat properly and it can cause the heating element to warp and short out against the cabinet. To check for a shorted element you should unplug the dryer and remove the bottom panel. On the right side you will see the heating element, remove the two wires that connect to the element. With a multi-meter, check to see if you have continuity from either side of the element to the cabinet that hold the element. You should NOT have continuity when you check for this, if you do the element is shorted out and will need to be replaced. You can also pull out the element and do a visual inspection, sometimes you can see where the element coil is touching the housing. When the element is shorted out, it will continue to heat when the dryer isn't calling for heat. They will even heat with the dryer not running, so make sure to unplug it for safety reasons.

Jul 27, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Iron won't come on or heat


Hi
The problem could be the power cord or the element.
Try replacing the power cord first and see what happens.

Feb 28, 2012 | Irons

1 Answer

Will not brown the top


1. Make sure the browning contol is set to at least 4.
2. Let the iron pre-heat at least 4 minutes
3. Carefully, touch you hand to the top with a quick touch or about 1/4" away.
4. The top and the bottom should feel the same. CAUTION THEY ARE VERY HOT
5. If the top isn't very hot the element inside isn't working.
6. Unplug the unit and let it cool
7. Remove the top lid cover with the assembly screws
8. Remove the element shield under the lid
9. With the element exposed, chech the wire connection to ensure no lose connections
10. With volt meter connect to the element, plug the unit in CAUTION ELECTRICITY CAN KILL!
11. There should be 110 house voltage at the element terminals
12. If not power is seen. disconnect the power and the meter.
13. Reassemble the shield and lid.
14. Remove the control panel from the front face of the iron
15. Locate the adjustment knob electrical terminals
16. Locate the supply side terminal and the output terminal
17. MAKE SURE THE POWER IS UNPLUGGED
18. Inspect the thermostate control for any lose wires or debrie entrapted in the contacts area.
19. Clean and re-inspect the thermostat, then reassemble.
20. If the units still fails to work, unplug it again to check the contacts in the rotational housing
21. At the rear of the until locate the area where the wires are routed from the front panel control to the top rotational housing
22. Closely inspect the area where the wires are routed to the top of the unit.
23. If any of the wires seem worn replace them.
24. After inspecting the heating elemement, its connections, the temperature control and the wires routed to the top of the Iron - you should have found the problem. To further troubleshoot you will need specialzed equipment that could be hazardous such as a cheater plug to apply house current directly to the top element to ensure that it is functioning. If this is done and the element still does not heat then the element is bad.

Feb 12, 2011 | Waring WMK300 Professional Belgian Waffle...

1 Answer

Surface burners , when turning on left front the left back burner comes on,


Hello,

You should first check the wiring on your knob to be very sure that it is not malfunctioning or having partial contact by touching the back burner mapping or control. if everything is okay there, then you van check the below as well but if not, please fix the partial contact on the knob.

Secondly,Inspect the element to determine whether it plugs into a receptacle, as most do, or is wired directly.

Remove the plug-in element and inspect the prongs: Lift up the front of the element, then pull the element straight out.Check to see if the prongs are burned, pitted or otherwise damaged. If they are, you'll need to replace the element and the receptacle.

Take care.




May 15, 2010 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

I have a Bosch WTL5410 dryer, which has no heat going to the otherwise functioning tumbler. Do you know where I could purchase another heating element and where I can get instructions regarding the...


Open front panel, remove heat exchanger and clean.
Unplug the dryer. remove the panel in the back of the dryer that covers the heating element. ( the inner panel). On top of the heating element you will see a thermal sensor with a small red button on it. Thats the manual reset button To test if the heating element is working properly you can disconnect the wires from the sensor and clip the connectors together . Plug the dryer back in and start it. pay attention to the heating element. It should begin to glow shortly. if it doesn't then your heating element is bad and needs to be replaced.

Unplug the dryer. Connect the wires back to the thermal sensor. Plug the dryer back in. Before you start the dryer, press the red button on the switch. This is your reset button. Start the dryer. If the heating element doesn't come on and dryer doesn't heat, then you need to replace that sensor.

Mar 24, 2010 | Bosch Axxis WTL 5410 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

0ne of the surface units does not heat. Frigidaire Electric Range


HI, You will need to change the burner switch. When the element shorted, it took out the switch also. If you need help with part#, please let me know

Thanks
Vic

May 17, 2009 | Kitchen Ranges

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