Question about Whirlpool Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
For a whirlpool kitchen aid,kenmore and inglis.The top section(clothes mover) of the two piece agitator is removed by first pulling off the agitator cap then removing the inner cap. Underneath those there is usually a 7/16? bolt which will need to be unscrewed. Once removed, the top agitator half can usually be pulled straight up to access the agitator kit components.
At this point you can make the repair of the defective parts.
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Posted on Feb 01, 2009
SOURCE: Old Washer won't spin or agitate
You found a belt? Most w/p washer do not have a belt they are direct drive. take off the pump and motor to replace the motor coupling, 2 plastic pieces w/ a rubber in between
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
Now...a washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
Take note of your symptoms:
1. Washer fills, may or may not agitate, will not advance to the rinse cycle, and will NOT drain - lid switch.
2. Washer fills, does NOT agitate or spin, but WILL drain - motor coupling.
If you still have questions, please let me know. If the suggestions I have listed do not match your washer symptoms, please post back and elaborate more on what the washer is/is not doing. That way I can provide you with better assistance. I hope this information is helpful to you.
PS The age of the washer is determined by the Serial Number on the appliance. If you post back with the number I can tell you the year it was manufactured.
Posted on Jul 10, 2009
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