Question about Maytag Neptune MDE4000 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Just went from a 3 to 4 prong hook up have 230 across terminals and 110 from neut to hot the only thing that comes on is the light on the inside no controls at all ?

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  • stross03 Sep 07, 2009

    yes

  • stross03 Sep 07, 2009

    when first plugged in, the new recpt wiring had this config: neut. hot, hot instead of hot ,neut, hot. how bad is it fried?

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  • Master
  • 1,714 Answers

Is there 240 on the two 'side' prongs with 120 from either side to the top or bottom prong at the recepticle?

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

  • Craig Butler
    Craig Butler Sep 07, 2009

    Was everything fine before? The power is correct. You may want to undue the bonding jumper on the neutral to ground in the back terminals where you made the new connection, although it really should not matter.

  • Craig Butler
    Craig Butler Sep 07, 2009

    You may have gotten 240 volts across the 120 volt control circuitry. Not good! You may have damaged the electronics. All you can do is open up the console (top part) and look things over. Hope things are OK there for you .....

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Maytag Neptune dryer went from 4 prong to 3 prong...cabinet light works but dryer we won't star


It's not wired right. You're only getting 110 vac to the machine which is why you are seeing some lights but no operation. Make sure when you went to the three prong plug you connected to both 110 vac lugs and common.

Feb 17, 2014 | Dryers

Tip

3-prong to 4-prong Power Cord Conversion.


This advice is on how to correctly install an ELECTRIC DRYER or ELECTRIC RANGE 220-240VAC power cord (US Standards).

3-Prong or 4-Prong – The Difference:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.
GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Which One to Use: According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire. If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it. You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.

Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong: Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs. CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in. Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed. You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:

  1. With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters.
  2. With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached. The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end. NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.
  3. Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place. CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.
  4. Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug. NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame.
  5. Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord. NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one. This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose. This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.
  6. Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws.
  7. Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White). The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame. There’s usually a green grounding screw for this. NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point.
  8. Re-install access cover. Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in. With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on. In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance. Safety first.

on Jul 16, 2008 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

2 Answers

I have a crosley cde7500w dryer that does not start it doesnt make any sounds. i had to change the power cord from 3peong to a four prong


I would check the terminal block for damage from the arch if nothing found then i would call for service to get a look over

Feb 24, 2013 | Crosley Dryers

1 Answer

I dont understand the digram im tring to hook a plug outlet to plug the the timmerin to the wall and out from the timmer i would like to put a outlet to be albe to plug in my lights


You posted under T102 timer.
This timer is 240Volts, and you can't hook this to ordinary outlet.

Look at inside of timer door to see brand and model number, and then add a comment.
Once I know model number of your timer, I can help you with wiring.

If you have T101 timer:
1) Your power outlet has two prong openings: 1 is wide and 1 is narrow.
2) Black Hot wire from narrow prong connects to Terminal 1
3) White Neutral wire from wide prong connects to Terminal A

4) Black wire going to new outlet connects to Terminal 2, and also connects to brass screw on new outlet.
5) White wire going to new outlet connects to Terminal A, along with other white wire, and also connects to silver screw on new outlet.
6) Bare ground wire connects to green screws.

7) This is code wiring. Black is for Hot and White is for Neutral.
Hot wires connect to brass screw on outlet. White to silver screw on outlet.
Narrow prong on outlet is Hot; Wide prong on outlet is Neutral.
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on timer or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Jan 26, 2011 | Intermatic T102 Indoor 120-Volt 40-Amp 1...

1 Answer

I just got a used kenmore model number 110 88752792 stackable washer and dryer. it had a 4 prong cord.I live in a travel trailer, it has a 24 inch wide space for a stackable washer and dryer that the 110...


You will need to get 230v to allow the dryer to work if your service panel has 230 you will need to get a 30 amp two pole breaker and run 3 wire #8 in size. Then get the socket and plug for the dryer. The 110 in the model number simply means made by whirlpool and is a pretty good machine but requires 230 volts to dry with heat.

Jul 28, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Rhow to hook up a ge dryer change from a THREE


Put the green wire to the frame of the machine

White to nutral, red to a hot terminal, black to a hot terminal and make a place for the green.

You need a white wire in this case because the timer and light bulb are 110 V while the heater is 220 V. The green is for your safety.

Let me know if this works for you

a

Sep 23, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Switching to a 3 wire plug from a 4 wire plug for maytag dryer. what do i do with green ground screw


This advice is on how to correctly install an ELECTRIC DRYER or ELECTRIC RANGE 220-240VAC power cord (US Standards).

3-Prong or 4-Prong – The Difference:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.
GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Which One to Use: According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire. If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it. You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.

Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong: Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs. CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in. Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed. You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:



  1. With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters.
  2. With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached. The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end. NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.
  3. Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place. CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.
  4. Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug. NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame.
  5. Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord. NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one. This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose. This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.
  6. Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws.
  7. Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White). The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame. There’s usually a green grounding screw for this. NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point.
  8. Re-install access cover. Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in. With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on. In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance. Safety first.

These steps will work for nearly all appliances that require a 220-240VAC power cord conversion. The power cords are usually rated at 250VAC, 30 amps, and are carried by any hardware store or appliance parts retailer.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:


  1. If you desire to convert an appliance from a 4-prong to a 3-prong, make sure you reconnect the bonding strap and/or ground wire to the Neutral (white) wire at the terminal block.
  2. On some newer appliances, it is REQUIRED that you use a 4-prong plug in order for the timer or clock circuits to function properly due to the way they are configured. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct recommendation. Even if you currently have a 3-prong receptacle, you still may be required to upgrade to a 4-prong if you encounter this situation.
  3. In many circumstances, new appliances are NOT sold with the power cord due to the various power configurations in homes. Always refer to the contents description on the shipping container the appliance comes with to see what additional items or tools may be required for installation.

Aug 03, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Wire 3 prong cord


Electric Dryer How To Hook Up Cord pixel_trans.gifFor Three Prong Cords
the Center cord wire goes on the center terminal,
the left on the left ,
and the right on the right.

Note: There should be a ground strap or wire that runs from the center terminal to the dryer case.

For Four Prong Cords
the White cord wire goes in the center,
the Red on the Right,
the Black on the Left.
The green cord wire goes to the case or the external ground screw.

Note: Be sure to disconnect the ground wire or strap that runs from the center terminal to the case. In this Photo (A Whirlpool Dryer) I have ran the wire that runs from the center terminal, the Light Green wire, back to itself rather than cutting it off, just incase I need to put a 3 prong cord back on it some day. The whole purpose of this 3 prong / 4 prong thing is it separates the neutral from the ground. pixel_trans.gif pixel_trans.gif3 Prong Cord Whirlpool Dryer Example terminalblock.jpg 4 Prong Cord Whirlpool Dryer Example 4prongcord_small.jpg

Jul 02, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I change from a 4 prong wire to a 3 prong wire on a kenmore h34t washer


3-Prong or 4-Prong – The Difference:

3-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – Usually grounded to the equipment frame via a jumper wire or metal strap.

4-prong color code:

BLACK (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L1
RED (HOT – 110-120VAC) – May also be referred to as L2
WHITE (NEUTRAL – 0VAC) – DO NOT ground to equipment frame.
GREEN (GROUND) – Attach to equipment frame.

Which One to Use: According to the National Electrical Code (NEC), Article 250, installations after the year 2000, require the use of a 4-prong plug which incorporates a separate ground and neutral wire. If you currently have a home that uses the 3-prong receptacle and cord, you can continue to use it. You will have to upgrade to a 4-prong configuration, however, if you plan on relocating your current receptacle, or if the internal wires of the receptacle become damaged in any way and require repair.

Converting from 3-prong to 4-prong: Make sure you UNPLUG the appliance prior to any repairs. CAUTION: Voltages dangerous to life are still present even with the appliance turned off and still plugged in. Notably in the area of the terminal block where the power cords are installed. You will need to remove the old cord by following these steps:

1. With the appliance UNPLUGGED, remove the access panel on the back of the unit where the power cord enters.
2. With the cover removed, you will see a terminal block where the power cord is attached. The terminal wires will be colored with the WHITE wire in the middle, and the BLACK and RED wires on either end. NOTE: There should be a green jumper wire or metal bonding strap attached to the NEUTRAL (white) terminal wire.
3. Remove the terminal lugs holding the old power cord wires in place. CAUTION: Use care not to drop any nuts or screws inside the appliance.
4. Remove the bonding strap or ground wire from the Neutral terminal lug. NOTE: If disconnecting a ground wire, make sure you re-attach it to the appliance frame.
5. Loosen the screws on the strain relief connector that holds the power cord in place and remove old power cord. NOTE: If your appliance does not have a strain relief that clamps down and hold the power cord in place, it is highly recommended that you install one. This prevents chaffing of the power cord against the appliance casing, and prevents the terminal wires from being pulled and broken loose. This could pose a potential shock hazard or cause damage to the appliance.
6. Install new power cord by threading it through the strain relief connector and tighten down the screws.
7. Connect the new power cord to the corresponding colors at the terminal block (Black goes to Black, Red goes to Red, White goes to White). The difference is going to be a Green (ground) wire that will connect to the appliance frame. There’s usually a green grounding screw for this. NOTE: If you disconnected a green grounding strap in Step 4., you can connect these two wires at the same point.
8. Re-install access cover. Turn off the service breaker to the appliance PRIOR to plugging it back in. With the breaker in the off position, plug the appliance in, and THEN turn the breaker on. In the event, something was wired incorrectly, it is far better to have your hands away from the receptacle and controlled from a distance. Safety first.

These steps will work for nearly all appliances that require a 220-240VAC power cord conversion. The power cords are usually rated at 250VAC, 30 amps, and are carried by any hardware store or appliance parts retailer.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:

1. If you desire to convert an appliance from a 4-prong to a 3-prong, make sure you reconnect the bonding strap and/or ground wire to the Neutral (white) wire at the terminal block.
2. On some newer appliances, it is REQUIRED that you use a 4-prong plug in order for the timer or clock circuits to function properly due to the way they are configured. Refer to your owner’s manual for the correct recommendation. Even if you currently have a 3-prong receptacle, you still may be required to upgrade to a 4-prong if you encounter this situation.
3. In many circumstances, new appliances are NOT sold with the power cord due to the various power configurations in homes. Always refer to the contents description on the shipping container the appliance comes with to see what additional items or tools may be required for installation.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Mar 31, 2009 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE4t Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Had 4 prong had to switch back to 3 prong, now no heat???


Take a voltage reading across the RED and BLACK terminals to ensure you have 220-240VAC. It could be that you are missing one leg of the 220 service. An electric dryer requires 220 for the heating circuits to operate, but only uses 110 for the drive motor. You can perform this check in one of two ways:

1. Unplug the dryer and check at the receptacle across the two hot sockets. This will be the longer diagonal slots in the receptacle. A reading across the terminal should read 220-240VAC. If you're only getting 110-120VAC, you need to check each one to the neutral socket to determine where you're losing the voltage.

2. Unplug the dryer and remove the access panel in the rear, where the power cord plugs into. Plug the dryer in and take the same readings at the terminal block. Taking checks in this manner will also prove whether or not the power cord good or bad. CAUTION: There is live voltage present at the terminal with the dryer plugged (even with the unit turned off). Use care not to come into contact with the terminal when taking measurements.

I hope this leads you in the right direction. Please post back if you have further questions.

Jul 31, 2008 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

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