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Locate the heater core of your vehicle by finding the two rubber hoses going into the firewall. Your heater core is inside the firewall, between the engine compartment and the cabin of the vehicle. Detach the two hoses from the heater core valve stems by loosening the spring clamps around the hoses with a screwdriver. Twist hoses back and forth carefully to remove from valve stems and move hoses out of the way.
Run water through one of the valve stems by turning on the garden hose and placing the end of the hose on the valve stem. Flush out the heater core this way until you see clear water coming from the other valve stem. Turn garden hose off.
Replace the two rubber hoses from the engine and secure to valve stems by tightening screw clamps with screwdriver. Be careful not to over-tighten.
Turn car engine on and turn on heater fan to test and verify that heater is working.
Sometimes you can start turning them out (they unscrew) with a tiny flat blade screwdriver. Or you can go to a parts store and buy a small package of tire valve caps that have the two small prongs for removing valve cores. Walmart probably has them, too.
CORD? THE ONE TO START THE ENGINE.
Park the Polaris ATV on level
ground in an area with plenty of light. Allow the engine to cool if it
is warm so that you don't burn yourself.Remove the four Phillips head
screws from the corners of the metal cover that the cord is coming out
of using the screwdriver. Pull the metal cover off the engine. Unwrap
the cord from around the turn wheel completely.Spin the turn wheel using your
hand until the nut securing the cord is at the top of the wheel facing
you. Grab the metal stem on the cord with the pliers. Loosen and remove
the nut using the box wrench. Hold the stem to keep the cord from
turning as you loosen the nut.Pull the cord off the turn wheel
and through the hole on the metal cover. Keep the nut just in case the
new cord did not come with one. Insert the metal stem on the new cord
into the hole on the metal cover. Insert the stem into the hole on the
turn wheel.Tighten the nut onto the stem
the opposite way than you removed it. Spin the turn wheel
counterclockwise until you hear the spring lock into place. Wrap the new
cord around the turn wheel. Make sure that the cord does not overlap
itself. Replace the metal cover to the engine. Replace and tighten the
screws to secure the cover to your Polaris's engine.
1. You only should have one check valve; the one in the water is best, remove the other if you can.
2. Make sure there are no leaks in any of the piping between the water and the pump inlet.
3. Take the pump apart, thoroughly clean the new seal, the two halves of the pump that go under the metal band, the inside of the metal band.
4. Lubricate the new seal, the outer sides of the pump halves where the metal band squeezes together, the inside of the metal band where it contacts the halves and even the screw on the tightening device using petroleum jelly (Vaseline) or equal. Make sure the pump literature does not recommend against whatever you use.
6. Fill the pump with water, open the discharge on top of the pump if possible and prime.
Normally, a pump, even with a long run will prime in 5 minutes or less.
If it is a dedicated presta pump, there should be a threaded cap on the head where it attaches to the valve stem - it has a hole through it to allow the stem through. Tighten that stem slightly and it should compress the rubber enough to hold on. But don't tighten too much or it will be hard to get off.
The head holds on with a rubber donut under that cap. By tightening the cap, the donut gets compressed and closes the hole tighter.
Sometimes on the stems on the side the handle attaches is a nut that can be tightened. Inside this nut is a rubber or other type of seal. tightening this nut stops the water from coming out of the handle. If the nut has already been tightened then possibly need to replace this rubber seal.
if they are still the factory wipers, pull the black rubber inserts out, remove the 2 metal peice from the side of the rubber insert, install the metal into the new inserts. slide the insert into the blade. repeat for other side. i recommed that you use factory parts.
Pull off entire plastic wand off by unscrewing the top plastic piece. Inside the piece that connects to the screw top you should see two o-ring type spacers. The top one should be hard pastic and the one beneath should be rubber. Take the entire unit apart and clean, making sure to put all pieces back in the way they came out.
To put back on, take the top piece and put it back on the metal stem first then put the rest of the wand back on and gently push it as far up the metal stem as possible and screw back together. If you don't have the rubber spacer this could be the problem since the wand really has nothing grabbing onto the metal stem except for the rubber spacer. If this doesn't work, order another wand:
If you're talking about the spark plugs, it's pretty easy. Follow the spark plug wires back to the cylinder heads. This will have a rubber cap on it, pull that off and you'll see a little metal stem. Use a 5/8" Sparkplug socket (deep well with a little rubber insert to protect the plug) and unthread it. After this, coat it with some spark plug thread sealer (it's in a little pack sold at the front counter of an auto parts store like Autozone). Put your new plugs in and tighten them down. Don't tighten too much, you just want them to be snug. Hope this helps.