Question about LG RZ-42PY10 42 in. HDTV Plasma

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I removed the back cover and powered the unit up. Neither if the fans is functioning. I can trace these back to a small (regulator) board to the lower left of the chassis. Does this offer us any clues?

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  • arnaud73 Sep 07, 2009

    The screen is working fine at start. The fan do not turn at all. Is that could be an issue of over heating, the screen to go red and make it to switch off for security?

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Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. The red tint on the screen is due to a bad lamp or a faulty inverter board. It could also be a dry joint somewhere in the drive electronics. Lamp faults are often intermittent as they can be dependent on temperature among other things. This can make internal shorts come and go. Service Engineers will often take the back off the set and gently tap the neck of the tube to prove or disprove the lamp problem.

Please get this checked as disassembling the TV could be very dangerous as it has very high charge even when it’s switched off.

There is an internal short on the circuit board of your TV & due to this the TV screen first turns red and then after overheating (due to short circuit on the board) it turns itself off. However, these kinds of short circuits on display board cause the lamp to go bad.

If you can't see the fans moving and neither anything appearing on the screen then due to shorted connections and which resulted in overheating of lamp. Further checking the TV circuit is not advisable as i have earlier told you that the TV contains very high voltages even when it’s switched off and fiddling with any unknown part/circuit can be fatal.

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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Unfortunately, none of that will fix your machine, as this is a common fault with these units.
Fortunately though, it can be fixed.

In 99% of cases this is caused by a faulty regulator on the main power board.

The power board is located on the right hand side of the unit. The regulator is IC001 which is mounted on a thin metal strip which acts as a totally inadequate heatsink. This means that this component constantly works at temperatures beyond its tolerance.

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Hi

Unfortunately, this is a common fault with these units.
Fortunately though, it can be fixed.

See my earlier solution show below.......

Ok guys, you asked for a fix for the DMR E55 Self Checking cycle. Here goes.
In 99% of cases this is caused by a faulty regulator on the main power board.

The power board is located on the right hand side of the unit. The regulator is IC001 which is mounted on a thin metal strip which acts as a totally inadequate heatsink. This means that this component constantly works at temperatures beyond its tolerance.

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If you are competent in using a soldering iron with care, order an STRG 6353 regulator. These can be obtained online from a number of suppliers.

Disconnect your DMR E55 from the power source and remove the lid. Next, remove the fixing screws from the circuit board on the right where the regulator is located. Carefully remove the multi connector on the left side of the board. Remove the screw above the power connector on the rear of the unit. The power board can now be removed from the cabinet.

Using a small pair of wire cutters, clip all five pins from the old regulator as close the the top of the board as possible. Undo the screw securing it to the heatsink and remove the old regulator which can now be thrown away.

Next, using your soldering iron, remove what's left of the pins from the printed board and with a solder ****** or desoldering braid, clear the holes ready to accept your new regulator. Be careful because if you over heat the print it can lift away from the board.

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Ok guys, you asked for a fix for the DMR E55 Self Checking cycle. Here goes.
In 99% of cases this is caused by a faulty regulator on the main power board. The power board is located on the right hand side of the unit. The regulator is IC001 which is mounted on a thin metal strip which acts as a totally inadequate heatsink. This means that this component constantly works at temperatures beyond its tolerance. Because of this it usually lasts a couple of years and then starts causing problems. The Self Checking syndrome is typical. If the regulator burns out completely, it can take other components with it, blow fuses and scorch the circuit board.
If you are competent in using a soldering iron with care, order an STRG 6353 regulator. These can be obtained online from a number of suppliers. Disconnect your DMR E55 from the power source and remove the lid.
Next, remove the fixing screws from the circuit board on the right where the regulator is located. Carefully remove the multi connector on the left side of the board. Remove the screw above the power connector on the rear of the unit. The power board can now be removed from the cabinet. Using a small pair of wire cutters, clip all five pins from the old regulator as close the the top of the board as possible. Undo the screw securing it to the heatsink and remove the old regulator which can now be thrown away.
Next, using your soldering iron, remove what's left of the pins from the printed board and with a solder sucker or desoldering braid, clear the holes ready to accept your new regulator. Be careful because if you over heat the print it can lift away from the board.
Use a little heatsink compound on the back of your new regulator, poke the pins through the circuit board and then secure it to the heatsink. I usually fit an extra heatsink on these units which helps to reduce heat and prolong the life of the new component.
Next, resolder the 5 pins on the print side of the board. Use a magnifying glass and make sure you haven't missed anything or bridged connections in error and caused short circuits.
Now put the board back. This can be a little trick but it's easy enough if you take care. Replace all the screws and carefully reconnect the multi connector.
If you have followed this correctly, switch the unit back on, pop in a DVD and give it a try. Unless you are very unlucky, You DMR E55 will no longer repeatedly self check and will operate correctly. Whilst it saddens me to hear that some of you guys would toss your DMR E55s into the trash can for such an easily repairable problem, please do not attempt this unless you are confident in your own ability.
Finally, do check that the fan operates but remember it is temperature controlled and will not activate until it is needed. Do not assume it is faulty because you do not see it working straight away. I have repaired lots of DMR E55s and I have never found a single fan or fan control circuit to be faulty. That's not to say it can't fail. good luck...

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