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How to test the motor - Ryobi Saws

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  • garry1958 Sep 09, 2009

    the motor is on a Ryobi ETS1825 saw bench.
    The supply voltage is 230v and fuses blows has soon has motor is switched on.
    Is there a diagram of the motor windings I can get or a supplier in UK for a new one.

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I don't know what we are testing for but you need a volt ohms meter and I would unplug the tool and remove the handle half. Test the cord to the switch and then engage switch and test thru it, Remove the brush caps and brushes and test from the switch to the brush holders if you have continuity thru all these look at the condition of the commutator thru the brush tube and rotate the blade by hand and look for major discoloration or the raising of a comm bar. Check the condition and length of the brushes for the spring being collapsed. That would be a good way to start, but if you can give me some idea what you are looking for I will try and help more, I would also need the exact model number and brand.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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How to Hot-Wire Test a Cordless Drill Motor


<span><span>The power switch may not be the problem if a cordless drill stops turning on. Sometimes a bad drill motor can prevent the tool from starting, even if the switch is good. </span></span><br /><span><span>To determine the problem, the best method is to remove the switch and then hot-wire the drill motor to the drill's rechargeable battery to test it. If the motor checks out, then it's probably the switch. </span></span><br /><span><span>The steps for testing a drill motor .</span></span><br /><span><span>In addition to tools needed for dismantling the cordless drill, such as a drill/driver, <b>two</b><b> wires</b> are needed to connect the motor wires to the drill battery. </span></span><br /><br /><span><span><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><b><a></a></b></span>Hot-Wire Test a Drill Motor</b></span></span><br /><span><span><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span><br /><p><span><span>1. Remove the drill's battery and dismantle the drill.</span></span><br /><p><span><span>2. Disconnect the wires leading from the switch to the drill motor. Sometimes this means completely removing the switch. </span></span><br /><p><br /><p><span>3. Now that the motor is isolated from the switch, <b>connect </b>one of the <b>motor </b>wires <b>to </b>one of the <b>battery </b>contacts <b>using one of the two wires</b> set aside for this test.</span><br /><p><br /><p><span><span>4. <b>Connect </b>the <b>second wire </b>to the other battery contact. </span></span><br /><p><span><span>(<b><i>Note:</i></b> It does not matter which motor wire is connected to which battery contact. The orientation is not important because it is a DC motor and will only determine which direction the motor spins.)</span></span><br /><p><span><span>5. Hold the motor firmly in one hand, and then <b>complete </b>the electrical <b>circuit </b>between the battery and the motor by connecting the second wire to the the second motor wire.</span></span><br /><p><span><span><b>If</b> the <b>motor does <i>not</i> spin</b> once the second connection is made, <b>then the drill motor</b> <b>is most likely fried</b> and needs to be replaced. </span></span><br /><p><span><span>If the motor <b><i>does </i>spin </b>after completing the electrical circuit, that's a good indication that <b>the motor is</b> a <b>healthy </b>one. If the motor tests out OK but the drill is still having trouble starting up, the problem is most <b>likely </b>caused by <b>a faulty power switch</b>, not the motor.</span></span><br /><p><br /><span><br /> </span><br /><span><span>The power switch will have to be reconnected to the drill after the motor has been tested. It is important to reinstall the switch wires correctly after performing this test. </span></span><br /><span><span>The example drill used in this article has a very simple wiring configuration in its power switch. Drawing a switch wiring diagram is especially useful for switches with complicated wiring configurations.</span></span><br /><br /><span><span>If you're testing your drill's motor, chances are that some kind of part replacement is on the horizon. </span></span><span><span></span></span>

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Frigidaire Dishwasher Error Codes and Service Test Mode


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CE is a Configuration error (Replace Control Pn#154543602)

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uF is a Vent fan Not running (Replace Vent Pn#154682301) or remove blockage

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CL is close Door

01-24 hours of delay

Service Test

To enter service test you must turn off the power and PF will be displayed. While in PF press and hold Pad # 1 and Pad # 7 at which time an “rt” will appear in the display. To get it out of service test Press Pad # 1 and the Pad # 7 this will return you to PF mode.

[ (#1)(#2)(#3)(#4)(#5)(#6)(#7) (#8)(#9)(10)(11) ]

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Press pad # 2 Test Speed motor (3 Times) wash motor @3150 rpms Speed Wash pad “31′ in display

Press pad # 2 Test Speed motor (4 Times) wash motor @3450 rpms Speed Wash pad “34′ in display

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Press pad # 4 Test Drain pump on/off China Crystal or Party glasses on = dP off = “rt”

Press pad # 5 Test Fan dry Active vent on/off Top Rack,Eco Wash Glasses on = Fan speed off = “rt”

Press pad # 7 Test Rinse aid level none Rinse only low = RE full = RF off = “rt”

Press pad # 8 Test Soil Sensor none Wash Silencer or Wash pressure on = sensor voltage reading off = “rt”

Press pad # 9 Test Thermistor none Wash Temperature on = Temperature in °F off = “rt”

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2 Answers

A/c blower motor works if I pull power and plug back in until I cut engine off. Then I have to repeat process


Daryl, You may want to check the blower relay/ just switch with one of same type and try and if OK, problem could be the blower motor, wires/plug loose,damaged,burnt or a faulty blower motor resistor. Second link has some trouble shooting of a overheating wire problem, that is to be common in these trucks. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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F92

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please rate me solved...thanks

DTC P0411/16795: SECONDARY AIR SYSTEM - INCORRECT FLOW DETECTED
Test Requirements
Ensure all fuses are okay, battery voltage is at least 11.5 volts, all electrical accessories are off, A/C is off.
Ensure engine is mechanically sound.
Test Procedure

NOTE
Secondary air system is activated by ECM and blows air into exhaust pipe
upstream of catalytic converter for 100 seconds during a cold start, 41-91°F (5-
33°C). Engine must be cold to perform following test procedure.

1. Ensure fuse and secondary fuse (secondary fuse is 40 amp and is located in fuse holder on top of battery)
are okay. Check hoses and components of Secondary Air Injection System, for damage, loose fit and
improper installation, check vacuum hoses for Secondary Air Injection System. Repair as necessary.
Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. If DTC does not reset, test is complete. Perform ECM relearn
procedure. See TEST DRIVE RELEARN PROCEDURE .
2. Remove engine cover. Disconnect pressure hose from Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101), by pressing
buttons on hose connector. See Fig. 33 . Using scan tool, check Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) in
scan tool Output Diagnostic Test Mode (Secondary Air Pump Relay activation mode). See OUTPUT
DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE .
3. Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) should run in intervals and air should exit pump at hose connection.
If Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) is okay, go to step 7 . If motor runs and no air exits secondary air
pump motor, replace faulty Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101). Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. Test
is complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure. See TEST DRIVE RELEARN PROCEDURE . If
secondary air pump motor does not run, go to next step.
4. Disconnect Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) harness connector, install LED test light at secondary air
pump harness connector terminals. Turn ignition on. Using scan tool, activate Secondary Air Pump Motor
(V101) in scan tool Output Diagnostic Test Mode (Secondary Air Pump Relay activation mode). See
OUTPUT DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE . LED test light at Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) harness
connector should flash. If LED test light at Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) harness connector does
not flash, go to next step. If LED test light at Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) harness connector
flashes, replace faulty Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101). Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. Test is
complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure. See TEST DRIVE RELEARN PROCEDURE .
5. Using DVOM check resistance of Secondary Air Pump Motor (V101) wiring. See appropriate WIRING
DIAGRAM under ENGINE PERFORMANCE in SYSTEM WIRING DIAGRAMS. Resistance should
be a maximum of 1.5 ohms for each reading. Check wiring for short circuit to one another in Secondary
Air Pump Motor (N101) harness connector. Repair as necessary. Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. Test
is complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure.
Secondary Air Pump Motor (N101) wiring is okay, go to next step.
6. Check Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) and Secondary Air Pump Relay (J299) wiring. See DTC
P0418/16802: SECONDARY AIR PUMP RELAY (J299), MALFUNCTION . Repair or replace as
necessary. Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. Test is complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure. See
TEST DRIVE RELEARN PROCEDURE .
7. Disconnect vacuum hose from Secondary Air Injection Valve (N112) and disconnect pressure hose from
secondary air pump motor, press buttons on pressure hose connector to disconnect pressure hose. See Fig.
34 . Blow lightly into disconnected pressure hose, Combi-Valve should be closed. Connect hand vacuum
pump to disconnected vacuum hose and apply vacuum to Combi-Valve, Combi-Valve should open. If
Combi-Valve opens when vacuum is applied, Combi-Valve is okay. Go to next step. If Combi-Valve
does not open when vacuum is applied, replace faulty Combi-Valve. Erase DTC memory. Verify repair.
Test is complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure. See TEST DRIVE RELEARN PROCEDURE .
8. Check Secondary Air Injection Valve (N112). See DTC P0412/16796: SECONDARY AIR
INJECTION VALVE (N112), ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION . Repair as necessary.
Erase DTC memory. Verify repair. Test is complete. Perform ECM relearn procedure.
NOTE: Do not use compressed air to check Combi-Valve.
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