Question about Viking VGSC366-6B Gas Kitchen Range

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Viking Range I have a six year old VGIC306-4B - 30" wide range with four burners, single oven. When using the oven, it takes a very long time to pre-heat, sometimes as long as an hour. I can see that the gas flame is weaker on the left and I can see that the flame fluctuates in size as it is heating up. All the burners and the broiler seem to work fine. Is this a regulator problem? If so, is there a regulator that I can replace or clean?

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  • wrinkledman Dec 29, 2007

    This looks like a possible solution, but 125.00 (for two Maytag components) is a lot to spend on a guess. Have you done any more research?

  • wrinkledman Mar 16, 2008

    http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/...



    This link is exactly right. I bought these parts for under 40.00, including shipping for both on ebay and installed them in less than an hour with no special tools. It took a little bit of work to get the old ones out, but not too much. I didn't have to break or force anything. My oven works better than it did when it was new. No exaggeration.

  • heatheoven Jan 10, 2009

    I have a Viking Range Model VGRC365-4GD which is taking up to an hour to get to 350 degrees; I took the bottom liner out, turned on the oven and noted that the left ignitor did not light up at all - so all the work was being done on the right side. Is the only part needed a new ignitor? and do I understand that Maytag makes a comparable & better part than Viking?

    Thanks.

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I'm having a similar problem. I don't know the exact fix yet, I'm just starting to research. Check this link: http://www.applianceguru.com/forum1/1916.html
It sounds like the ignitors are suspect. This may be a weak component for Vikings. This link recommends a Maytag replacement part.

Posted on Dec 26, 2007

  • 906miles Mar 18, 2008

    Sounds identical to my symtoms (make that my Viking's symtoms). The Maytag part works fine. Fit is exact and the mounting plate is identical. You will need to wire nut the connections Vs a spade type connector on the original, but other than that it should solve that problem.



    I don't know the technical relationship with ignitors and the valve/regulator, but there is. I believe that when the ignitors are not drawing enough amps the regulator/valve senses that condition and reduces gas flow. Most likely a safety feature.

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I don't have the answer down pat. I'm a DIY with a similar experience. I had my ignitors replaced about three years ago (Viking parts) and they are suspect again! IMO, very short life span. The Viking parts are more expensive. The link mirrors my experience and when I replace mine again I'll try the Maytag part and repart back on the fit/function. A little shopping around gets the part at ~$40 ea.

Posted on Dec 30, 2007

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