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Im needing to stall a new switch and timer on a 2 speed attic fan. I'm not sure what type of switch to use and what the connections would be. I was told to get a Intermatic 12 hour timer with shut off. The attic fan has 4 wires. Red, White, Black and a Ground. The power has 3 wires. White, Black and a Ground Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Sorry, but I don't know who the manufacturer is for the attic fan.

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  • kholm Sep 08, 2009

    Is going to work. It does work.

    The attic fan is a 110. The Red is high, the black is low and the white is the common.

    After some thought, I finally figured it out. The Timer is wired first. It is basically the switch for the attic fan. The black wire from the source (L1) goes into the timer and out of the timer to the black screw or common connection on a 3-way switch. The red line and the black line from the fan connect to the 3-way switch on the other two connections. The white wire from the source and the white wire from the fan are tied together with a wire nut. The 3-way switch acts as the high/low.

    To operate you select what speed on the 3-way switch and then decide on how much time with the timer.

    Works like a champ.

    Thanks anyway.

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Your fan is a 220 volt, your power supplyu is a 110 volt. Not going to work.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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1 Answer

I want to replace our old carling toggle switch to a new timer switch for an attic fan. I have 2 black wires and one red. My new switch has one black one red and one green wire.....what do I do?


Is the fan 2-speed?
Old switch has 2 black and 1 red... sounds like 2-speed.
One black is probably Hot, and other black and red go to each speed??
Choose 1 speed and wire timer as follows:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-timers.html
Add a comment with more details about the timer you are using, and include if fan is 2-speed and what each wire tests.

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Hampton bay Fan 54 in


How old is fan, and did you check to see if all screws are tight? If it was working before, then sounds like something happen either losing ground or motor ran hot or over heated. Does it make noises?

Dec 29, 2007 | Hampton Bay 54 In. 5-Blade Fan, Chestnut,...

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Wiring problem


11-1-12
Thanks for link to manual.
Solution might take more response for full clarity, and you seem a good electrician.
I have numbered two questions that may be unimportant.
Add a comment, response after 5 pm CST

Here is illustration showing Black Hot and White Neutral in attic junction box, as you described. With black-red-blue wires connected as shown in Broan manual. And each device connected to White neutral wire in junction box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Triple-fan-light-night-light.jpg

You have access to attic, and can drop another cable down wall into switch box. This will give necessary total 4 wires between switch and Broan
http://waterheatertimer.org/OWB1.html

Key start point: Junction box in attic has the Black Hot wire and White neutral coming from circuit breaker box.
This cable powers the junction box.

There are 3 cables in junction box, each cable with black and white.
Cable from breaker box with Hot and Neutral. Cable going to light switch.
Another cable jumps power to next box in the circuit, and will be reconnected when finished, black-to-black white-to-white

Old light switch in wall was single pole.
1) How many cables are inside switch box? Just one cable from attic with black and white wire?
2) 3-way switch is the wrong switch, unless you mean 3-pole triple switch with 3 screw terminals on one side of device?

Here is another link that shows wiring choices if you decide to use 3 separate switches (or timers or occupancy sensor to turn on night light) instead of triple switch: Install triple box.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#4-f

Oct 31, 2012 | Broan-NuTone Dryers

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I have a new 5 ton Grand Aire A/C. It seems to take much longer to cycle than my old unit did. Also my plenum is sweating in my attic? Is this normal? Any Suggestions?


sounds like poor airflow if unit is same size as old equipment and duct work is sized correctly you can try raising fan speed if using a pleated type 90 day filter switch to fiberglass non-pleated type filter that restricts less airflow. Also check return air for leaks you could be introducing unfiltered hot air from attic or enterior walls.

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We have a fan 60 minute push button timer we purchased and installed with a 3-wire system. WE need to purchase another one but they all have 4 wires now. Where can we purchase a 3-wire one.


It sounds like you have mechanical push-button type timer.
I need more information to avoid guessing which timer is best for your situation.

I'm not sure what a 3-wire system is?
Add a comment
1) How many switches control same fan
2) What color wires inside box.

Is this
3) low-horsepower bathroom fan?
4) other fan, for example: higher horsepower attic fan, 3/4 horsepower industrial kitchen fan, or 1-horsepower whole house fan?
5) Is this your home or is fan for continual commercial use?

6) Is this a countdown timer that turns fan OFF automatically after 60 minutes?
7) Or what kind of timer are you looking for.

Open following link for list of home-use countdown timers and horsepower ratings of countdown timers.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Countdown-timer-horsepower-ratings.html

Spring-wound timers do not require extra Neutral wire, and can control 1 HP whole-house fan.
The push-button timers each require Neutral wire to run electronics inside timer, and they range from 1/6 HP to 3/4 HP which will work for any bathroom fan.

If you cannot give required information for more free help, then request fixya interactive answer and pay fixya expert to ask same questions while expert supplies you with immediate information.

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I am trying to replace an old spring loaded attic fan timer. The old time simply had a black line in and a black line out. There was both a white and red line capped off in the box along with a bare...


The timer is wired differently than the old spring-loaded timer.
This is because the timer has an electronic clock instead of a spring.
The electronic clock needs power just like an alarm clock.
The white wire powers the clock.

Here's the wiring.
Black-timer wire connects to Hot-wire-from-breaker
Red-timer connects to Load (attic fan)
White-timer connects to white Neutral
In absence of a Neutral, connect white-timer to bare ground.

If you have your black-timer and red-timer wires reversed, it might cause the symptoms you describe.
Simply reverse the black-timer and red-timer.

If you want to test your wires to make certain:
Remove timer.
Separate wires for testing.
Turn on power.
Use ordinary tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away.
Power is ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
When tester lights up, that is hot-wire-from-breaker.
Now test hot-wire to each of the other wires (except ground)
When tester lights up, that is Neutral
Not every switch box will has a Neutral
In that case white-timer connects to ground

Nov 08, 2010 | GE 60minute Automatic ShutOff Timer Switch...

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How to wire to attic fan? Old Sping loaded timer has two wire connections Marked LINE and LOAD . There are two Romex- Three wire cables with Black , White (Common) and bare (Grd) wires coming into this box...


OK, your new switch will require the use of a neutral wire. So you will have to do what is called a pigtail. You will have to twist another white wire in with your other white wires to attach your neutrals to your switch. Note: white wires are called neutral not common. Hook the wires that were originally hooked up to your LINE to your HOT (Black) on your new timer, and the what was originally LOAD up to the new timer LOAD. SO as far as wiring all that will change is your white wires that need to attach to your timer NEUTRAL.

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I am installing a intilitech 7 day in wall timer replacing an old mechanical 12 hr timer. The load is a 1/4hp 2 speed attic fan. The original wiring had hot in hot out of the timer. This has hot in, hot...


Utilitec does not make a 2 speed timer.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Program-wire-Utilitech-LW60419.html

1) One possible option is a timer with NO and NC terminals like Intermatic-Grasslin FM1 series rated 1 HP. This example timer would have the motor running continually on either one speed or the other.
http://www.intermatic.com/~/media/files/intermatic/products/instructions/grasslin/fm1%20series%20time%20switches.ashx

2) Inside a 2-speed motor are two separate windings.
Windings are loops of copper wire that cause the fan motor to rotate.
For 2-speed, each winding has to be connected to a different 'switch.'
For example, like a ceiling fan. You pull the chain once, and electricity flows to one winding. Pull the chain again, and the switch sends electricity to another winding.

3) The following wiring diagram shows ordinary on-off timer connected to 2-speed switch: This is the basic plan for Broan Nutone 2-speed switch timer, which might be the product you are replacing
http://blog.airscapefans.com/wp-content/uploads//timer_option1_1-1024x768.jpg

4) Nutone makes a 2-speed whole house fan timer.
http://www.nutone.com/PDF/InstallGuides/CFS2WHins89777.pdf

5) And open following Broan Nutone manual that show the two spped timer wiring
http://www.nutone.com/PDF/InstallGuides/CFS2ins57169.pdf

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You probably can't get the existing mechanical timer to operate any quietier, since it's old and likely starting to wear out. You can either swap the timer out for a new automatic digital timer, or install a standard single pole switch in its' place.

I believe the code you refer to regarding the fan having to be wired onto a timer switch was a local requirement from many years ago.

Some local jurisdictions have impossed more stringent requirements, but frankly, having an exhaust fan is normally a good idea. If the fan is vented into the attic space, it can cause some serious problems in cold weather with condesation of the warm, moist exhaust air.

Building Code requires that bath fans be piped/vented to the outside of the house and not into the attic space.

There are newer preset timer switches that will turn on the exhaust fan for a fixed amount of time, based on which button you push. These are great as they will run the fan long enough to remove condensation from showers, etc.

If you're going to replace the timer, disconnect or turn off the breaker or power to the switch. Then simply install a new timer or switch by connecting the black supply wire to the bottom of the single pole switch, or to one of the black leads of the timer. Then connect the black wire going to the fan to the top screw on the single pole switch, or the other lead on the new timer. The white (neutral) wires should already be connected with a wire nut inside the box. Connect the ground wire to the ground wire in the box and if the switch box is metal, attach the ground wire to the box with a green grounding screw too.

You can now operate the fan with either a manual on/off switch or the new digital timer, whichever you chose to install.

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It sounds like you are replacing a two speed motor with a single speed. Check the side of the old motor and see if it has high and low speed wiring schematics. If so you need to replace with same model number. Good luck!

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