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Dryer doens't heat - Kenmore Dryers

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Model Number is always helpful

Unplug unit and turn off gas if gas model. Check to be sure you have 240 Volts at wall outlet.

Most parts likely to fail on electric dryers are inside the rear cover. Heater is on right inside can, safety thermostat on lower left of can, High limit thermostat (non-resettable) higher left of can. On the blower housing to the left are the operating thermostat and, in some models, a thermal fuse (white plastic). ALL can be continuity checked easily. Always disconnect wire on one side of what you are testing. One will likely be open. Replace the component that fails the continuity test.

The thermal fuse or high limit thermostat failure generally points to a reduction of air flow due to SOME blockage either inside the dryer or in the vent pipe leading out of the house. If you find either of these parts bad be sure to check the vents after replacing parts to ensure the same parts won't fail again.Heater replacement sometimes requires lifting of top. Under the lint filter cover there are two screws. Remove them WITHOUT dropping them into the vent or you may cause a more serious problem. Insert a putty knife between the front and top about 2 inches in on both sides. This will release the top for raising.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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Navy 2nd Class Diver 1969-73

The Ignitor is fine? So, it heats on some settings and not others?

The OHM Meter test for continuity.
Some parts give a reading of a certain amount of OHM's but, most the time all you need to know is if you get any reading on the meter at all. This shows there is no break inside the part. You can check the ignitor this way also the solenoids on the gas valve.

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If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Igniter
Gas valve coils
Thermal fuse
Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.

The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.

Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.) Below is a link that will help you with parts and diagnostic procedures that are specifically tuned to your manufacturers data plate information.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SmartSearch.aspx

If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Jun 23, 2008 | Dryers

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