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Replaced pump and presssure vessel, water outside

Replaced pump and presssure vessel, water outside okay, very little water to house, ex husband is back flushing? He has been working on this 24 hours,

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If your like me your house has a pressure regulator to keep the pumps high cut out pressure from blowing your lines. Also a lot of domestic wells have a filter at the house to keep sediment out.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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Air conditional water drip


That happened to us. It was a broken pump, pump was up in attic. attached to our inside air-con unit. We had it fitted on an inside wall of the house, and so a pump must be installed to take away the condensed water to the outside of the house. Hindsight being 20/20 I would never buy one that needed a pump to get the condensed water out of the house. We would have put it an outside wall where the water goes straight outside, no pump needed. Our First pump lasted just over 2 years so warranty was expired. Cost us over NZ$500 to have new pump installed. Never again. Only attach your unit to an outside wall, even it looks prettier on the wall where it would need a pump. Bottom line:- Don't touch a pump. Pump was cheap but labor cost for serviceman astronomical! Bet of luck.

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Replaced diverter valve on worcester 9.24 combi and still only luke warm water


check your expansion vessel is not flat.if so recharge..simple way to check press in valve on vessel if water comes out or little air recharge..if water still in vessel the diaphram in vessel has split so replace vessel?hot water relys on expansion??

Dec 10, 2012 | Water Heaters

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Have a ecotec 824 plus boiler the bar goes upto 2.7 and stays round 1.5 when not operating,what is causing this?


Sounds to me like the expansion vessel is not working correctly. When the boiler is on the water gets hot and expands into the expansion vessel but if the vessel is not working the pressure will rise and will eventually escape through the pressure relief valve.

Feb 18, 2012 | Computers & Internet

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My worcester bosch 24i junior pressure keeps dropping if i have heating off for an hour i have to top up boiler and reset also when i have heating on the pressure jumps right up to over 4.0bar


When water is heated it expands. To deal with this all boilers are fitted with a small expansion vessel which is like a reservoir which holds the excess water.

This expansion vessel is like a balloon in a metal pot. When the water goes in the metal pot the baloon squashes a bit to make room for the extra volume of water. When it cools the balloon pushes the water back into the heating system.

What has happened is your expansion vessel no longer works. When the water heats up there is nowhere for it to go so the pressure jumps up to 4 bar. The Worcester boiler lets high pressure water escape (most boiler allow this to go through the safety valve at say 3.5 bar).

When the water cools the pressure drops very low as the volume of water contracts.

The problem is your expansion vessel - normally a little red painted metal cylinder inside the boiler.

Dec 22, 2010 | Bosch Water Heaters

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Pump pressure high pump won't shut off


This sounds like a pressure switch and if water is comming from both ends the diarpham is probally bad and it's best to get a new one.

Jan 27, 2010 | Northern Tool 12 Room Purple Martin House

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Evaporative cooler not getting water from water line


The pump is probably gone. the way it works is a float allows the water level to stay the same in the reservoir so check that. Water is pumped up to the hoghair and trickles down into it. A big old blower pulls the wet outside air into the room. We call that one a swamp cooler down here on the gulf. Go outside and spray some water on the unit to cool down the house till you can get the pump replaced.

May 10, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

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Primed my shallow well pump---started okay--


sometimes pipe will scale over time depending on the water chemistry.
You can use PVC pipe indoors where your water enters the house.

May 06, 2009 | Flotec Corrosion Resistant Shallow Well...

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Combi Boiler pressure gauge reading 0, and radiator half on!


The first thing you need to do is to put some more water into your heating system. This is usually done by allowing water from your (pressurised) domestic cold water supply to flow into the system: On older boilers, this is done with a connection (often made with a removable hose) on the pipework just outside the boiler. Newer boilers may have a built-in connection with some sort of removable link (sometimes looks like a plastic key).

Once you've got the boiler up to working pressure (typically about 1 bar - 15 psi), you should be able to bleed your upstairs radiator properly.

This may be all it takes, though the pressure excursions you're getting when you run the hot tap suggest there may be another problem. See what happens to the pressure as the boiler heats up and cools down. There really ought to be very little pressure difference between the two conditions. If you see significant changes, this usually means that the "pressure vessel" (or in hydraulic terms, system accumulaor) has lost its air charge.

The pressure vessel is a metal container inside the boiler, usually painted in red enamel. Somewhere near the top, you will find a schrader valve (like the one on a car tyre), and you can use this along with a tyre pump to replenish the air in the top of the vessel. This will reduce your pressure transients for a while, but you need to keep an eye on it. If the problem returns, you probably need to replace the pressure vessel (or clag another one into the plumbing alongside the boiler).

A.

Feb 03, 2009 | ACCO Brands Water Heaters

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