Platina mask with Tusa lenses leaking round side of lense
I have a Platina mask and have bought Tusa lenses to for it. They are great but I cannot stop water entering through the left side round the lense. Is there a way I can stop this by using silcone grease or Vaseline or something?
This has NOTHING to do with my mask not being correctly situated on my face or hair or anything like that. It is from rond the lense.
Re: Platina mask with Tusa lenses leaking round side of...
Yes you can use vasaline for a temp fix however this is nothing like relieble and could fail without warning at any depth (pressure)
may i suggest "milliput" its a two part resin which can make water tight seals, once set; it form a perminant hard join which can be filed for a better fit.
one word of warning it is oil based so under no circustances take it into a decompression chamber.
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somewhere on the lense or on the bakside of it has been compromised,theres probably a small rock chip in front or crack of some sort.sometimes the seal between lense an bakside housing itself leaks.only fix for this type of complaint is to replace lense w a new or used one
Sounds like the shop is your problem not Rudy Project. They have great service. I am a Rudy Project dealer and have never seen Rudy leave a customer out to dry. I would contact them directly and plead your case.
I believe this is a Tusa mask, if it is then yes they pop off, although a little stiff, a little washing up liquid can help. Try phoning your nearest scuba store that stocks Tusa masks they should be able to get a spare for you. :)
This shouldn't be a problem at all. It is better to have a eyeglass kit made that allows the use of prescription lenses to be installed inside of the mask. Remind your optometrist that glasses are regularly made and fitted to the inside of facemasks of self contained breathing apparratus (SCBA) for firefighters. You don't grind lenses for the facemask, you have the lenses mounted inside, and when you wear the mask, the glasses are held close to your eyes. The beauty of this is that when you buy a new mask, you just refit your kit into the new mask.
Best regards, --W/D--, a former firefighter, 25 years.
Mirror lenses have no aperture nor AF, so they mount via a T mount. A $30 item that screws on the end of a mirror lens that fits your camera. A mirror lens has it's physical likes and dislikes against a glass 500mm. A glass 500mm will give a better image if you can stop down to F8 F16. Then you have shutter speeds to consider and those lenses are usually connected to the camera's contacts. So they can be specific to a single body. There are older Tamron lenses that take Adaptall mounts, they are old and hard to find. But they solved the multiple body problems for "auto" program lenses. None had AF, when AF camera around, we were back to individual lenses per body.
The camera and lenses you mention are non-autofocus equipment and have a different mount than newer ones. Your best choice for reliability, price, and ease of service would be one of the Canon EOS digital SLRs. Second choice would be Nikon D series. Minolta autofocus lenses used on the older Maxxum series film cameras can be used on the new Sony digitals, but Sony is new to digital SLRs and their track record remains to be seen.
The inserts would be specifically for your eye prescription and are bonded to the lens. You can even get bifocals done for your mask and also correct for astigmatism. Your specific prescription can be fit into any dive mask that you choose so there is no need to buy a new mask.
prescription scuba mask
Manufacturers also offer scuba masks with lenses already premade and the same prescription in both eyes. You choose the prescription that fits your needs. Some divers find this adequate to use underwater. The premade prescription mask would obviously be cheaper than custom made scuba diving masks.
Personally, I wear contact lenses when I dive and have had no problems (besides losing one after I surfaced and got hit by a wave). I wear the daily soft lenses and don't notice them when I dive.
I've never dove with hard contact lenses so I do not know how they would respond to pressure. If you wear lenses, you should consult your eye doctor to see what they recommend in your case before you dive with lenses for the first time. Let them decide whether you would be better off with a prescription scuba mask or diving with contacts.
One site I found which seems very professional is www.prescriptiondivemasks.com. They even have a testimonial from Cathy Church, the renowned underwater photographer, on their site so it can't be too shabby.
I just fixed mine and what came out of the end of the lense housing was the shutter assembly. Your camera will still work but the shutter will not operate for protecting your lense.
What was on the ground from the shutter assembly looked like six parts but actually there's eight:
1 - Front round plate (what you see if shutter assembly was still in the lense housing).
2 - Hair size springs that hopefully stayed in the sides of the front round plate. IF NOT OR EITHER ARE LOST, THE SHUTTERS CAN'T BE SET TO CLOSE SO SKIP THE STEPS BELOW ABOUT INSTALLING THE BLADES.
1 - back round plate (black with four tabs).
2 - Larger L-shaped blades.
2 - Smaller L-shaped blades.
Place the front round plate with cosmetic (engraved 'PENTAX...) side down and look at the inside for two round mounting posts on the left and right. You will be using the larger of the two posts on each side for placing the L-shaped blades.
Place the larger L-shape blades with the hole end onto the posts. Blades should swing freely and their backs match with the shape of the inside of the front plate when open.
Place the smaller L-shape blades on top of their respective larger L-shape blades with the hole end onto the same posts used in the last step. Blades should swing freely and their backs match with the shape of the inside of the front plate when open along with the larger L-shape blades.
Springs (long ends) will need to notch into the smaller L-shape piece end (nearest the hole/post end). This is a real trickly part of the assembly and I used two tools like large pins or needles to pry the spring into the notch. If you can't do this, no sense in even leaving the four L-shaped blades inside of the front round plate since the shutter will not close properly without the springs.
Align and snap the back round plate tabs onto the front round plate. The shutter assembly is now ready to put back into the lense assembly.
MAKE SURE THE CAMERA IS IN THE OFF POSITION AND THE LENSE ASSEMBLY IS RETRACTED!
Align the front of the shutter assembly with the engraved wording properly oriented (not sideways, not upside down, etc.) and press gently into the lense assembly until completely in the end of the housing.
If blades were installed properly, they will open when the camera is turned on, and close when the camera is turned off.
If blades were not installed, the empty shutter assembly (back round plate snapped onto front round plate) can still be pressed into the lense housing...the shutter will just not work and the lense will always be exposed. Actually, this is one helluva lot easier than fixing the shutter assembly and not the end of the world for your camera's operation!