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Removing back panel from 800 series to remove water valve

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You will not want to remove the back, if you do it will be very difficult to put back together. The way to get inside one of these is to remove the case. Vary simple and easy; Each end of your console has a cap that you will need to remove by pulling it forward from the top. It should un-clip. They are sometimes tricky and you should be prepared to replace the first one in case you break it. Once you have removed the first one you'll know how to remove the next. Now that you have removed the end caps, there is a screw under each. the screws hold the console on the top. After removing both screws, pull the console forward and then flip up. It should stay attached to the back. Now unplug the wires plugged into the top, you will see them a little to the right on the top, they were under the console. Now look toward the corners, you will see a square hole that has a metal clip. Use a flat screw drive and un-clip one on each corner. Your ready to take the cabinet off. Open lid, put a hand on each side of the whole you load the clothes in and pick up while you tilt towards you. The case comes right off. If you have the dispensers around the inside for soap and all. You will need to take these hoses off before you lift it off. You can now get to any part on the machine.
Note: If your machine is older than 3 or 4 years. You might want to replace your coupler while your inside it. It's also very easy. Notice the floor beneath the center of you machine. If you see a black powder, you will want to replace it. If not you will be before long anyway. These are great machines and the coupler is the most common thing to go bad within ten years. Good luck and i hope I didn't get to complicated, Remember I work on these every day and forget to mention things because I see them all the time. If you need more help just respond back.
Please rate solution.

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

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1 Answer

Need to remove and replace electronic water valve


First off unplug washer.
Turn water off hot and cold.
Disconnect water lines from valve.
Remove screws from top panel on washer then slide top panel off.
Remove connections on valve. Make mental note for what goes where. ;)
Remove valve.
Install new valve.
Connect wires.
Put panel back on and screws back in.
Connect water lines hot for hot and cold for cold.
Turn water on and check for leaks around connections.
Plug washer in.
Run a load!
Hope this helps.

Oct 26, 2012 | GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore fridge ice maker makes ice sometimes and sometimes doesn't


There are precisely 2 causes of such problems. Either the defrost thermostat is bad and need to be replaced or the water inlet valve is blocked or faulty. Either ways you will have to run a test on them both and replace the faulty component. Before you begin to test your icemaker's water inlet valve or the defrost thermostat, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.
To test the water inlet valve,
  1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.
  2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.
  3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.
  4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve.
  6. If the test you conduct with your icemaker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component.
To replace the water inlet valve:
  1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.
  2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.
  3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.
  4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  5. Discard the used water inlet valve and proceed to connect the new one. Attach the new valve in the opposite order of what the old one was removed. Replace the rear lower access panel and restore power to your refrigerator. Push your refrigerator back in its spot.
To test the defrost thermostat,
  1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
  3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
  5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.
To replace the defrost thermostat;
  1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
  3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
  5. To install your new defrost thermostat, reverse the removal process. Reconnect the wires, replace the panel, and restore power to your refrigerator. For those models where the defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator coil, make sure you install the new thermostat in the same location and position of the old one.
Hope this was helpful. Thanks for using fixya

Jan 27, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

My lg fridge wont make ice


If Your fridge wont make ice, there are just 2 components responsible for that. The water inlet valve and the defrost thermostat. You need to run a test on both to be able to tell which is the faulty component. To test the water inlet valve, Consult with an appliance repair technician if you do not feel you have the skill or the ability to successfully complete any of these test.Before you begin any test on your icemaker's water inlet valve and defrost thermostat, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.
  1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.
  2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.
  3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.
  4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve.
If the test you conduct with your icemaker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component. To replace the component, please follow the steps below:
  1. Locate your icemaker's water inlet valve, it is typically located behind a refrigerator. Gently pull your refrigerator away from the wall. You may want to place scraps of carpet, of some other soft material below the fridge to prevent damage to the floor. Turn of the water valve's water supply by closing the shut-off valve in the waterline leading to the water valve. Remove the lower access panel on the back of the refrigerator using a screwdriver or a nut driver.
  2. Place a container under the valve to catch any water that may spill from the water valve and its fill tube. Remove the water valve's fill tubing. Loosen the flare nut on the brass fitting that is found on the inlet side of the water valve. You can use a wrench to loosen the flare nut.
  3. Your water inlet valve is held in place on your refrigerator by means of a metal bracket. Use a screwdriver or a nutdriver to remove the screw that holds the water valve's bracket to the refrigerator cabinet. Gently pull the water valve out of the cabinet, and remove the tube from the outlet port.
  4. There are two wires connecting to the terminals of your water inlet valve. If yours is a double solenoid water valve, it will have four wires. Be sure to label each wire so that you know where to reconnect them later. Firmly grasp the metal connector of the wires in order to remove the wires. You may need to use a pair of needle-nosed pliers. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  5. Discard the used water inlet valve and proceed to connect the new one. Attach the new valve in the opposite order of what the old one was removed. Replace the rear lower access panel and restore power to your refrigerator. Push your refrigerator back in its spot.
To test the defrost thermostat, please follow the steps below:
  1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
  3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
  5. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting. Place each of the multitester's leads on a thermostat wire. When your thermostat is cold, it should produce a reading of zero on your multitester. If it is warm (anywhere from forty to ninety degrees Fahrenheit), then this test should produce a reading of infinity. If the results you receive from your test differ from the ones presented here, then you will need to replace your defrost thermostat.
To replace the defrost thermostat, please follow the steps below:
  1. Locate your refrigerator's defrost thermostat. In freezer-on-top models, it may be located under the floor of the unit, or it could be found at the back of the freezer. If you have a side-by-side refrigerator, the defrost thermostat is found at the back of the freezer side. The thermostat is wired in series with the defrost heater, and when the thermostat opens, the heater shuts off. You will have to remove any objects that are in your way such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, icemaker parts, and the inside rear, back, or bottom panel.
  2. The panel you need to remove may be held in place with either retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or use a screwdriver to release the clips holding the panel in place. Some older refrigerators may require that you remove a plastic molding before you can gain access to the freezer floor. Exercise caution when removing the molding, as it does break fairly easily. You could try warming it with a warm, wet towel first.
  3. There are two wires leading from the thermostat. They are attached to terminals with slip-on connectors. Gently pull on the connectors to release the wires from the terminals. You may need to use needle nosed pliers to help you. Do not pull on the wires themselves.
  4. Proceed to remove the thermostat. It may be secured in place with a screw, clip, or clamp. The thermostat and the clamp on some models are one assembly. On other models, the thermostat clamps around the evaporator tubing. In some other cases, the thermostat is removed by squeezing in on the clip and pulling the thermostat up.
  5. To install your new defrost thermostat, reverse the removal process. Reconnect the wires, replace the panel, and restore power to your refrigerator. For those models where the defrost thermostat is attached to the evaporator coil, make sure you install the new thermostat in the same location and position of the old one.

  6. Hope this information helped.

Jan 16, 2011 | LG LSC27910TT (265 cu ft) Side by Side...

1 Answer

I have a Bosch washing machine, 500+ series. I am receiving an error: E:02. Can someone assist me with this issue as soon as possible? I'd appreciate it. Best Regards, Darcy Mendoza


E02 means the unit is not getting adequate water or the drain is coming clogged. Remove the round access panel on the lower right front panel and take the drain catch off by twisting it. Water will come out so be careful, remove and clear all the debris in the drain catch. If you don't find anything then the issue might be with lack of water getting into the unit. If you are sure the water hoses are not frozen and have good water pressure then you will need to replace your electronic water valve on the back of the washer.

Aug 20, 2010 | Bosch 3.81 cu ft WFMC530 1UC Nexxt 500...

1 Answer

Washer drips after cycles are completed.


yes the water inlet valve is bad! might be easier to remove the base, when you remove the base the back stays connected to the frame. just unplug the machine,remove the end caps on your control panel and remove the screws holding it on, them pull slightly forward and up to fllip the control panel back it has plastic hinges on top,be careful not to break them. then unplug your lid switch, with a screwdriver remove the 2 gold clips that hold the base to the back panel, then open your lid lift from back towards you and the whole base will come off leaving the back panel and frame, should be a whole lot easier to replace the valve, then replace reversing your steps , when you are lifting off the base look at the bottom of machine through your lid and you can see how to put it back on the frame! not to hard!

Feb 17, 2010 | Kenmore 24902 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore HD Series 80 - hot water trickles in.


Pull the two screws at the bottom corners of the control panel. Pivot the panel up. Lever the two metal keepers underneath forward and up to remove them. Tilt the housing forward and pull it toward you to remove it. Make sure you unhook the lid switch wiring plug before you remove the housing.

Water inlet valve should all be one piece for hot and cold.

Nov 15, 2009 | Kenmore 26882 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Does water continusly pour on clothes when it dries them ?


The inlet valve is where the water comes into your machine, top behind. The cold water valve is probably stuck open. It should open only when there is voltage across the valve. Check if wires are fitted tight. It could just be clogged inside. If you can remove it, you might be able to take it apart and clean it. Just make a note of how parts fit together as you are taking it apart. Clean all parts with old toothbrush and reassemble. Before you reinstall, connect it to a garden hose outside. No water should come out when you turn the hose on. If it still fails, just buy a new valve.
  1. Unplug washer, turn off water supply and remove hoses from the back of the washer.
  2. Remove the top panel by removing the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then lift off.
  3. The water inlet valve will be located at the left rear of the washer (as viewed from the front).
  4. Remove the dispenser hose, electrical connections and mounting screws and the valve is removed.
  5. Install new valve by following these steps in reverse order. NOTE: When reinstalling top panel, make sure you lay panel on top of washer, leaving a couple of inches of room from the front panel. Then, slide panel towards you (front of washer) so that the top panel slides into the mounting clips.
Try these sites for spares:
RepairClinic.com
espares.co.uk
AppliancePartsPros.com

mcminone.com

Apr 14, 2009 | Frigidaire Washing Machines

2 Answers

Kenmore washer continully runs


Hello Friend, Your problem is easily solved. You need to replace the water inlet valve. It's easy to replace the water inlet valve on your machine. First, remove the two screws that hold control panel in place and tilt back exposing the two metal clips that hold the cabinet in place. You will see some wires plugged into the cabinet, just unplug them. There are two clips, one on each side. Just pop these clips off and lift cabinet slightly from back and tilt forward. At this point you will be able to completely remove the cabinet. Once you have cabinet removed just set it aside. Now, you will be able to gain access to the water inlet valve. Simply remove the hose and wires from valve and replace with new one. Re-install the cabinet, control panel etc. This should solve your problem. Happy to help, Tim.

Jan 06, 2009 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore washer leaks water,


on the back of the machine there a two water inlet valves, these are electric solenoid valves and one of them is leaking.  You need to remove the back panel on the washer to replace this valve assembly.  It's a common easily obtained part.

Dec 30, 2008 | Kenmore 24902 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

F20 Error Message


"F20" is a water inlet problem. This indicates you have insufficient water supply for the washer. Whirlpool is the manufacturer of your washer and they recommend that you unplug the washer and check the following:


1. Check water faucets to ensure they are completely turned on.
2. Check the inlet hose screens where they connect to the washer. The screens can clog with sediment over time and require cleaning. This can be a problem if you live in an area with well water and/or hard water.
3. Ensure the inlet hoses are in good shape and are not kinked.

If you check all the common sense items first and the problem still persists, you need to check the water inlet valve. To access, you will need to remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws that hold it in place. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. The water inlet valve is located in the left-rear of the washer just prior to the dispenser. Double the electrical connectors to make sure they are not corroded and double check the hoses that run from the inlet valve to ensure they are not kinked. A resistance check of the water inlet solenoids (with the connectors removed) should read about 800 ohms. If the solenoid readings are abnormal, replace the valve.

Please post back if you have questions or require further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

Jun 12, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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