Question about Lakewood (5500) Oil Filled Radiator Heater

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Lakewood oil filled heater model 5500

It was tipped over. The lights come on, but it does not heat up at all. Is there a reset button, or is it done for?

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  • barjean Dec 15, 2007

    I hope someone has a suggestion soon as mine was tipped over also and now the lights go on but no heat at all either. Is this a common malfunction? Should I take it back and get another brand?

  • Anonymous Dec 20, 2007

    This heater was purchased winter, 2006 and worked fine. I turned it on this winter. The lights work, but it does not heat up at all on any setting. I have tried several different outlets in the house, but it does not heat up at all.

  • Anonymous Dec 23, 2007

    LAKEWOOD OIL FILLED HEATER PURCHASED 1-06 USED MAYBE 2 MONTHS LIGHTS ON NO HEAT PLEASE HELP

  • Anonymous Dec 26, 2007

    It was tipped over. The lights come on, but it does not heat up.

  • Anonymous Jan 04, 2008

    Same problem here. Tipped over and was never the same.

  • Pookawirra Jan 13, 2008

    Mine wasn't tipped. It just quit putting out heat. It's only about a month old. I sent Lakewood customer service an e-mail as they invite on their Web site. That was about a week ago. No reply to date. Given that most of these posts are fairly recent, I'm wondering if they made a bad batch, or if they're generally just not very well made.

  • Ed the B Feb 11, 2008

    Like the Guest on Dec. 20, 2007, purchased this oil-filled radiator model for use in 2006; worked fine that winter; then worked fine for part of this winter; know of no special upsetting or bumping of it. However, as mentioned elsewhere here, we normally set it on maximum (both switches on with both lights appearing), in order to supplementally heat a drafty largish space.



    Have tried the second suggested solution, gently shaking it, but that has not worked. Don't know if I was too gentle or not gentle enough.



    Does anybody know of the existence of a schematic to show how to take it apart and attempt to replace the possibly faulty sensor, mentioned in the first suggested solution? How do I even get at the electrical innards behind the two switches?

  • coldfeet2 Feb 23, 2008

    Bought 2 different Lakewood heaters in January 2008, both are not working now. They did Not fall over but were used a lot when we had a series of snow storms. Why doesn't the heater have a reset button if overheating or tipping is a problem ? Sounds like a bad batch to me too with so many people having similar problems...........they should have a product recall for a defective product.............

  • Aoey Apr 28, 2008

    The one I have is four months old (too late for a refund from where it
    was purchased). No tipping or anything other than a few nights of use. It just suddenly quit working, but the lights stay
    on. Obviously a very poorly made product. A few months of very
    infrequent use (I wasn't even home to have used it for two of the four months), then off to the landfill . . .?

  • carloscostne Oct 27, 2008

    where is the fuse located? Cani change it myself

  • mingojoyl Oct 28, 2008

    i echo the prior poster, where is the fuse located?

    i have the same symptoms... worked all last season, now with 2nd use this season, lights come on but no heat. I do not use both wattages at once and i'm not aware that it was tipped at any time.

    If you have to buy a new one every year, that doesn't make for good cost/value!


  • sherlock22 Nov 15, 2008

    I bought one of these heaters some time ago. It was never unpacked, so it never got used. Last week I gave it to a renter to use. This week I am told, it was no longer working. So I took it back to check it out.

    I pulled the front section with the control panel off. When you take two screws off, you can squeeze the panel and take it off. The power switch has a relative heavy metal weight attached to it, apparently to cut the power when the heater falls over. Unfortunately that heavy weight is attached with a weak plastic piece. That piece broke off and fell down to where the heater element connections are. It left a burn mark ob the weight and the panel. Since the panel itself is grounded, it pulled a short. I don't see any overload at the heater element connections; I measured 16.5 ohm and 23 ohm across the two elements. That is about right for 600W and 900W at 120VAC. The Lakewood factory shows two companies that sell spare parts. I am checking with Nelson Appliance in Colorado whether I can get a replacement switch.http://www.nelsonappliance.com - the switch will cost about half as much as a new heater. Will see how that plays out, I may buy me some better heater in the end.


  • jcloud906 Dec 21, 2008

    My heater tipped over and now does not heat. The lights come on, but it won't get hot. Does it have a reset?

  • Anonymous Apr 14, 2009

    Lakewood Model 5500.

    Same problem-lights on and no heat. Also have oil leaking out of it. It has never tipped over or been bumped in any way.

  • hankosaurus May 11, 2010

    Hello fellow Lakewood 5500 "Surprisees."



    After a couple of years of good service (well, except for the gurgling sound of boiling oil when warming up) one of my two 5500 heaters stopped working last evening while running on 1500W with the thermostat set about 2/3 of its clockwise travel. Both 600W and 900W switches were on. Now the orange neon lights are on, but no heat whatsoever. I checked with an ohmmeter from the power plug. The circuit is open (broken) and shows infinite resistance, no matter what thermostat or switch settings are selected. The other 5500, and which still works, shows 15 ohms at the 900W on setting, 23 ohms at the 600W on setting, and 9 ohms with both switches on (the two heater elements in parallel). That makes sense, and is close to what another poster measured upthread.



    So, now I'm ready to do surgery.



    Now, the question is HOW do I get the unit open so that I can replace the thermal fuse element or a switch if it needs it? I assume that the warranty is out of the question after several years use. And evidently, customer no-service is a waste of time too. I just don't want to make it unnecessarily "ugly."



    Thanks!

    Hank

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Follow up to my post of 13 January. Out of desperation, I took the heater apart and determined that an electrical fuse-like thermal overload device had opened on the neutral side of the feed to the heating element thus rendering the unit non-working. This device is wrapped in a sheath around the underside of the heating element's electrical connections where the element enters the radiator's core. If the element exceeds the rated temperature it apparently "blows" or electrically opens much like a fuse. The lights still come on but no electricity is getting to the element. When I removed this from the circuit, the the unit began making heat. Apparently, when the heater is on full (both switches on for the full 1,500 watts) the core temperature gets too high. So, I now use my heater on only the 900 watt setting and it's putting out plenty of heat. Today's high is 2F and the room is comfortable. I've no doubt the manufacturer would not condone this modification and I have no intention of turning my modified heater back on "HIGH." Therefore I do not recommend doing this yourself unless you are competent in electrical and soldering work and are sure you won't overheat the unit. Having said that Lakewood clearly has either a design flaw or a bad batch of heater elements or overload protectors out there. When I have time, I'm planning to send my defective protector back to them with a letter. But given that they never responded to my e-mail to their customer service don't expect much in the way of a reply. As they say on TV, don't try this at home.

Posted on Jan 31, 2008

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Pookawirra is correct in why the Lakewood 5000 heater may not heat, yet all lights are on. I don't recommend bypassing the thermal fuse, however, due to it's a safety issue.

Be sure to get a thermal fuse that is of the same temperature rating ( Lakewood 5000 heaters uses 167 C fuse)

I found onw at the following link:

http://www.goodmans.net/get_item_th-tf167c_thermal-fuse-167-degrees-celsius.htm

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

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If the lights come on, but there is no heat, the unit has tipped over and the safety shut off is stuck. There is a plastic hinge with a weight on it located on the bottom of the thermostat. After falling it will open the circuit. Open the unit up and free the plastic hinge

1. Remove plastic feet
2. Remove screw on bottom of unit.
3. Slide the front panel down until off
4. Remove both screws on the thermostat cover. (top of panel)
5. Look for the weighted hinge under thermostat

The 5500 unit that I brought home from work because it was shorting the circuit breakers, had the plastic hinge broke off and the weight was shorting out the out the 600w wire.

Posted on May 05, 2010

  • stephenhartl
    stephenhartl May 16, 2014

    YZFRIDER is correct. I fixed mine after buying the 167 degree thermal coupler and replacing it. It now works as it should.

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I have 2 of the lakewood 5500 heaters that I bought at a garage sale the one worked and the other one didn't. The problem that I found was that the fuse blown out. I replaced the fuse and it now works like a champ , also suggest that you get a couple of extra fuses to keep on hand for the next time you have a problem.

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

  • Malcolm Jackson
    Malcolm Jackson Dec 20, 2016

    I do not see a fuze in there :( Where is it?

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A couple things.... first check the tilt breaker, stand it up right and bump it a couple times! when laying on their side the weighted disconnect will break power to the unit, designed to shut down the unit to prevent a fire! Or 2, There is a heat fuse ( thermal disconnect) inside the panel that need replacedIf you have never messed with electrical appliances, take it to some one that knows about these things...The part is like $1.50 but the labor will likely increase the cost by $50.00

Posted on Jan 28, 2013

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Hello Folks.

Pookawirra's observations match mine exactly. I also removed the failed thermal fuse device, shorting across where it had been.

I know it is risky to run it on high without that protection.

I chose to use it with a small electric fan pointed at the fins, and with it on the 600 or 900 watt setting, but not both. My thinking is that this will keep the core temperature lower than it was when it failed. It has worked okay since. I also make a point not to have it on when I am not nearby.

We have a second identical which has not failed, but since the first one did fail, we have used a small fan next to it also. That may have kept its thermal fuse device from blowing.

If you choose to replace the thermal fuse, here is a source:
http://www.goodmans.net/get_list_632_2.htm

The 167 Celsius device is Item#: TH-TF167C

Good luck with yours.

Posted on May 10, 2010

  • hankosaurus May 10, 2010

    Hello again fellow "Lakewood Surprisees."



    When I got the unit apart I discovered that the thermal fuse device had
    opened (blown). I am wondering if it should not have had one rated a bit
    higher in temperature, e.g. 184 Celcius instead of 167 Celcius.



    In testing the unit, I shorted around the blown device and noticed that
    the heater works again (but without that missing thermal fuse's
    protection). I have not replaced the thermal fuse yet, although I
    should. In the meanwhile I have chosen to use it on 900W or 600W, but
    not both. I only use it with a small fan blowing on the fins. So far, so
    good through the past winter. I also make a point to only use this
    heater when I am physically present and awake since it does not have the
    thermal fuse protection.



    I have a second identical unit which has not failed. But since the first
    one did, I have used a small fan next to it as well. No problems with
    it, even running on its highest settings all day.



    Here is the replacement part, FYI:
    http://www.goodmans.net/get_list_632_2.h...



    Item#: TH-TF167C



    Good luck with your heater.



    Hank

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Don't bother with the Lakewood heaters as they are filing a Chapter 7 and no longer in business. Check out the phone # 888-858-3506

Posted on Mar 05, 2010

Mine did the same thing... i think there's an automatic shut off for tipping... I got mine restated by stetting it upright and shaking it gently a little bit (i suppose the tipping sensor was stuck in place)

Posted on Jan 30, 2008

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