Question about Northstar Generator 9 Hp, 5500 Watt, Gasoline

# Hi output from generator

Starts at 120 volts and progressively gets higher. Goes to 200+ volts.
Put a voltage meter in the 120 volt plug. When generator was first started the voltage was normal and steadily went higher.

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I found out that the gasoline motor was turning too fast so I had to turn down the speed of the motor with the adjustment screw.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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## Related Questions:

### How to increase the output voltage

Measure the Generator after 10 minutes the first measure but not only to one power outlet with doing a measure with a multimeter its not done so because the generator is fully unloaded then you will see 105 vac
Measure on one outlet and use a paint stipper a 2000 watt type and measure at the same time on the second power outlet with a multimeter on AC you should get more volts out to measure instead of 105 volts then you hear that its generate power and blow more smoke you will be seen a 115 or 120 volts if you increase this generator its possible you get if you are increase the idle power to 120 volt can create an over loading of 200 volt or more over the outlets that can give damage if it the stator electric field generate power outside its level it can blow up your expensive tools and in a short time you think there is not enough power on my tools anymore then your armatures are become bad and the tools are hot in a short time warmt dissipation has blow up armature and nothing smels hot but the tools are blowing up. and you see nothing inside because the tools will not are getting black burned and hot but the to high magnetic pulse burns the weak points inside the armature in a fraction of time.
Beware of that the adjusting is normally doing with a tacho meter and a suggestion of about 3000rpm and not more of the stator what its max depend on model . but adjust by the load power of a working paint stripper it can have enough if you adjust 120 volt by load.

Mar 06, 2016 | Electrical Supplies

### 1963 ONAN SPEC#705JB 3R/1G GEN DATA #705 JB3N1B HAVING PROBLEM WITH VOLTAGE OUTPUT UNDER LOAD ONLY.200 VOLTS ONE PHASE 40 VOLTS ON THE OTHER.FOUR LEAD GEN 120/240 VOLTS.ANY THOUTS,BRUSHES LOOK FINE.

First remove any loads, is the voltage still unbalanced? If not check the grounding of the load, if yes check generator N/G leads are tight. Check the stator windings to make sure they are in tolerance for L1 L2. If you need help let me know. This unit probably has a reactor, so check for any loose connections. Also check the diodes, you may have to lift one end out of circuit to test properly, or else your meter will not read correctly

Oct 19, 2013 | Electrical Supplies

### Briggs & Stratton 12KW Model 040229 LPG Generator. 96 Volts @ the 120 Volts outlet, When I turn the house 2 Ton AC voltage increase to 106 Volts.

Can you manually adjust the voltage on the generator without load?? If you have 120/240 60hz output on it and you are not overloading the unit (amperage), then it may be as simple as adjusting whats called your gain setting for your voltage regulator. Obviously you are seeing what happens when it is set too low. Trying raising that setting until it becomes unstable then back it off. Unstable meaning voltage starts jumping all over.

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### Battery does not stay charged on my 20kw generac generator

WAS A 110 VOLT CIRCUIT RAN TO IT FROM THE NORMAL UTILITY POWER OF HOME OR BUILDING IT FEEDS?
NORMALLY THIS IS DONE IN A SEPERATE CONDUIT FOR CONTROL WIRES.AND THE FEEDERS ARE IN ANOTHER CONDUIT.
WITH A DIGITAL TEST METER,CHECK FOR 120 VOLTS AT THE BATTERY CHARGER IN THE GENERATOR CABINET.USUALLY THERE IS A RECEPTICAL TO PLUG THE CHARGER INTO.
IF VOLTAGE IS PRESENT AT THE BATTERY CHARGER AND INDICATOR LIGHTS ARE ON, CHANGE METER TO DC AND CHECK FOR 13.8 VOLTS OUTPUT FROM THE BATTERY CHARGER.IF YOU HAVE OUTPUT VOLTAGE TO THE BATTERY,AND IT IS DEAD,CHANGE THE BATTERY..

HOPE THIS HELPS YOU,BEST OF LUCK.....

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### I have a 2002 supper glide and the other day as I stoped at a light the eng. came on and it stoped running. I tryed to restart it but the battery was dead. After getting it home I charged the battery and...

It sounds like you have a charging system problem. Charge the battery to full charge. Then connect a digital volt ohm meter to the battery. Red meter lead goes to the positive battery post and the black meter lead goes to the negative battery post. Put the meter's function switch in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT RANGE or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. The meter should read 14.5-15.0 volts. If not, proceed to the the alternator test.

To test the alternator, find the plug on lower left front of the engine where the voltage regulator plugs in. Unplug the plug. Look inside the plug in the case and you'll see two metal connectors. This is where we're going to test the output of the alternator.

Put the meter's function switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLT scale. Insert one meter lead into each of the metal connectors. Since we're measuring AC voltage, it makes no difference which lead goes to what connector. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read 30 volts or higher.

If the alternator reads 30 volts or higher but the battery test fails, replace the regulator. If the alternator test fails, you need a new stator installed on your bike.

good Luck
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### 1993 Harley Sportster 883 Batt. is tested and good, generator tested and good, regulator is tested and good, no drwa on batt with ignition off, Charging system putting out 13.5 VDC at 2000 rpm. At idle...

You've already spotted the problem. 13.5 volts is not enough to keep the battery charged. It will slowly lose it's charge. You should be charging at 14.5-15.0 volts.

Check your regulator output. Look just behind the base of the rear cylinder and you'll see the wires coming out of the primary that go to the regulator. There's a plug in the line somewhere. Unplug it. You'll be measuring the output of the alternator so you'll be dealing with the wire on the alternator end of the plug. There are two metal contacts in the plug. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to do this test. Set the meter's function selector switch to AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Insert one meter lead into each metal contact. It make no difference which lead goes where as you're measuring AC voltage. Your meter should read at least 25 volts or higher. If not, your stator is bad.

Good Luck
steve

BTW: Early 1984 was the last year for a generator on the Sportster. Late 1984 to present, the bikes have alternators on them. Much better than the old generators. Much better.

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### I disassembled my EM650 Generator and to clean out

Most generators (except the latest inverter generators)
produce power directly dependent on RPM's.
This usually is in the form of an adjuster that through a spring, applies a preload to the governor arm.
The governor arm is attached to a shaft that disappears into the motor. Inside there is usually a set of weights that when spun faster will attempt to slow the motor and when spinning too slowly will attempt to increase revs. The adjustment you need to make is to the preload spring.
They are very sensitive to the motor being in good tune so do the air cleaner, spark plug etc before trying to get it right. Under voltage can do more damage than over voltage so take your time and get it to a good steady correct voltage with your usual expected load on it. A safety trip out box gives you a way to test voltage with a load on & some protection.
Work safe

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### I got a output voltage of 100.1 on a trace dr3624

The rms voltage is what counts, because it tells how much power the output will deliver to a resistive load. Inexpensive multimeters on their AC ranges are usually average-responding rms-calibrated meters. This means they measure the average of the absolute value of the AC component of the signal, and display that average multiplied by about 1.11 (actually, pi over sqrt(8)), the ratio of rms to average value for a pure sine wave. That way, the meter will give the right rms reading for a sine wave.

If the signal is a square wave, where the average and rms values are equal, the average-responding meter will read 11% too high.

Many inverters put out a modified sine wave (MSW), which sits at zero for a while, goes to a constant positive level for a while, goes back to zero for a while, and goes to a constant negative level for a while to complete the cycle. The positive and negative parts of the signal have the same magnitude and duration.

The rms and average values of an MSW depend on its duty cycle D, the fraction of a cycle for which the signal is not at zero. In a well-designed inverter, the duty cycle will be adjusted when the DC input voltage goes up and down to maintain the nominal rms output voltage. If we use peak voltage Vp to mean the magnitude of the positive and negative voltages the signal goes to, then Vavg for an MSW is equal to Vp times D, and Vrms is equal to Vp times the square root of D.

The duty cycle for which an MSW will have the same rms to average ratio as a sine wave is 8 over pi squared, or 81%. For any duty cycle less than this, an average-responding meter will read a lower voltage than the inverter rms output, and for a duty cycle higher than this, the meter will read too high.

If your MSW inverter is putting out 120 volts rms and its duty cycle varies from 50% to 75%, the meter reading will vary from 94 volts to 115 volts. I avoid the problem by using a Radio Shack 22-174B true rms digital multimeter.

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Check the voltage with a meter in all the recepticles with your meter leads in the left and right slots on the plugs. Is that 184 volts AC there? If so, your gen has big problems with the voltage regulator. Let me know what you read. You can check the right slot of each plug to the round ground hole on the plug too, should be 120 volts there.

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### No charge

You'll need to test to see if you are getting voltage from the brushes. This is a live test so, using something like alligator clips or such on the metal bracket of the brushes for your volt meter is a good idea. Simply start your generator with the volt meter leads attached to the the brush holders or exposed electrical connection to the brushes and see if they are producing electricity (120vac or greater). No voltage then it's your brushes, field, or stator. If they are good check the output of the voltage regulator. If it to does not kick down any voltage above 120 then it's your problem.

Note most cheap generators do not have a voltage regulator. All generators depend on the correct engine rpm to achieve normal voltage. 3600 rpm is the correct speed on a two pole generator to produce 110 to 125vac and 60hz (normally found on gas generators). 1800 rpm is the correct speed for four pole generators (normally found on diesel generators). You may set your rpms slightly higher to ensure that it's maintained underload ie 3750 for gas. Diesels usually have very good governors and don't need to be set higher.

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