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will try to help.if it's only the valve cover leaking,i'm guessing they sold you the rubber one that says ne rtv sealant needed. take your back off, try not to break the rubber seal when removing!clean the top of head where gasket goes. clean the valve cover really good!clean the grooves out that the gasket slides into. buy some blue trv glue, apply a thin coat to top of head, let it setup while you apply another thin coat to valve cover, let set 10mins. apply gasket to valve cover making sure to push the gasket into the grooves on valve cover. don't worry about neatness. let the valve cover set on a hard surface with the gasket against the hard flat surface[such as a garage floor,or clean driveway] after10 more minutes install the valve cover,make sure and take your time. place valve cover onto motor,than hand start each bolt to insure thay are going into the prope bolt holes. after you have each bolt hand started, start at center of valve cover snugging the bolts down to motor. do not crank down or apply excessive force when tightening those bolts. you should see some of that blue rtv glue coming out around the valve cover when applying torque to the valve cover bolts. only secure them snug at first. let car set for 15mins. start car and look for leaks around the cover, do not over tighten those bolts but you may need to look for a leak, go to bolt closest to leak and turn it 1/4 at a time until leak stops. but if you do this step by step, you'll not have a leak issue. you may have pinched the gasket when you replaced it. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com
Since you did not provided the model of the car. Here's the general step in replacing the head gasket.
Disassembly 1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal 2. Drain the cooling system 3. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands . 4. Remove the two 13mm exhaust bolts holding the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold, lower the vehicle 5. Remove the air cleaner assembly 6. Remove the upper radiator hose 7. Loosen the 13mm nut holding the dipstick tube bracket to the thermostat housing and remove the coil (if it is attached to the thermostat housing) and unplug the coolant temperature sensor 8. Remove the spark plug wires from the plugs, remove the distributor water shield and the distributor cap (this step is so you don't damage the distributor cap). 9. Remove the two uppermost 15mm-head bolts from the top of the a/c , alternator bracket where it attaches to the head and unplug the single wire temperature sending unit 10. Remove the upper half of the timing belt cover 11. Remove the valve cover 12. Disconnect the wiring harness connector that is just to the right of the throttle body 13. Disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle body and remove the two 10mm head bolts holding the bracket 14. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the throttle body 15. Disconnect the fuel lines - NOTE : The fuel lines may be under pressure , use extreme care when removing them 16. Disconnect the throttle position sensor connector and the EGR valve connector (if equipped) 17. Carefully lift up the throttle body wiring harness , the fuel lines , and the vacuum lines together and use a bungee cord to hold them out of the way 18. Remove the ground strap that is attached to the intake manifold from the fire wall 19. Remove the 15mm-head bolt holding the battery ground cable to the engine 20. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power brake booster and the heater hose from the intake manifold left side 21. Use two plastic tie straps to secure the timing belt to the camshaft pulley and remove the pulley . Hold upward tension on the pulley and secure it with a bungee cord to the right hood hinge - NOTE: be sure to hold the upward tension with the bungee cord so the timing belt doesn't jump a tooth on the lower pulleys 22. Remove the head bolts and lift the head off the engine block . (I suggest having an assistant help to lift off the head) With the head removed , carefully check the head casting for signs of cracks. Also use a straight edge to check the head casting for warpage (maximum allowable warpage is .00 23. Clean all the head gasket mating surfaces and wipe clean with a little brake cleaner on a rag. Use a round plastic bristled brush to clean out the head bolt holes in the engine block and blow them out with compressed air.
Reassembly 1. After the gasket surfaces are prepared, set the new head gasket in place and CAREFULLY place the head into position, take extreme care not to place the head on the head gasket until it is in the proper position. 2. With the head in place, install the head bolts. You will need to tighten the head bolts in a circular pattern starting from the center and working your way out. I recommend hand tightening all the bolts before beginning the torque sequence. Head bolt torque: For older style 10mm head bolts : 35 - 45 - 45 - and a 1/4 turn; For newer style 11mm head bolts : 45 - 65 - 65 - and a 1/4 turn 3. Use the two rubber valve cover end seals and a bead of RTV silicone to reseal the valve cover. 4. Do Not let the silicone skin-over before setting the valve cover into place and tightening the bolts, also be sure that both mating surfaces of the valve cover are clean and oil free . 5. After the head is reassembled you will need to reset the base timing to specs. You will also want to double check the timing belt position . Use a variable timing light and set the timing mark on zero degrees . Save the setting on the timing light and shine it through the inspection hole in the top of the upper timing belt cover . If the belt timing is correct , you will see the oblong hole in the camshaft sprocket centered in the inspection hole . Thank you for using Fixya!
remove shaft from power head check to see if drive shaft end is square if ok grab drive cable with pliers and try to turn head while holding pliers to make sure other end of cable and gear box are ok if so may have broke spring in clutch. remove plastic cover from engine you will see clutch bell remove spark plug stick piece of rope in hole to stop piston from moving where cable would go in bell there is a screw that holds bell on either torx or allen remove screw and take bell off there will be 2 shoes ans 2 springs that hold shoes togeather end of springs usually break where they hook in to shoe hope this helps
after safely supporting rear wheel off ground, remove small inspection cover from primary cover. rotate rear wheel until primary chain is at tightest point. cold engine- chain free play should be 5/8" - 7/8", hot engine should be 3/8" - 5/8". to adjust, loosen primary chain adjuster shoe nut (bolt head is similar to a carriage bolt-square head), sometimes you will need to tap bolt end to free up adjuster, as it sits in grooces to hold at desired level. adjust to desired tension and tighten bolt to 22-29 ft/lbs. then recheck chain freeplay after rotating rear wheel at least one full revolution. If OK, reinstall cover.
hi their should be 10 bolts holding the head on and the tool you need is an inverted torque socket these are needed to undo the head bolts using an allen key would just thread the head and would mean drilling the head bolts out which is a night mare, so dont use allen keys as they will not be strong enough to undo the head bolts without threading the head bolts. as for the gearbox as long as you have undone the 2 at the top and the ones either side and the bottom bolt you should then be able to remove the gear box from the engine, the problem with your car is the gear box has not got much room to come away from the engine far enough to allow you to get it out, you may need to undo the engine mountin bolts to allow you to have a bit extra room you may also need an engine hoist to support the engine whilst removing the box, you may get away without one but it will be difficult.
make sure you have removed the drive shafts from the gear box and also the starter motor and make sure the speedo drive is undone and also the electrics for the reverse light if this is located at the top of the gear box.
It all depends on whether the scew heads are flat, or have slots for a screwdriver.
If no slots , then you are going to have to access the heater from the rear of the outer rear cover of the oven.
If the screws can be undone from inside, then simply unscrew them, and pull the element out towards you.
Hope this helps.
most likely it is the valve cover gasket. it covers the valve train where there is alot of oil to lube the top of the motor. if the head gasket was leaking it may have more signs of running poorly. also having coolant leaks also. so i will have to say valve cover gasket. now usally you may have a oil burning smell with it depending on the area of the lek but not always.
the valve cover can easily be seen when the hood is open. it is right on the top and where it meets the clyinder head is where the gasket is and the leak can be seen.
It is a Valve Cover Gasket. You can get a new one at any Auto Parts Store. To make this repair last longer, Do not get the Cheap one, Get a Felpro Gasket and it will Quadrupel the Gasket Life. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!