Someone recommended to replace the heater element due to freezing up. I took it out and checked it, and it is bad.
However, the sound from the fan was like it was slowing down and then speed up. Is it supposed to sound like that? Also it has been about an hour and the fan is not running at all.
I am wondering if it just happens to be in the defrost cycle.
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Re: Fan cycling low and high
The freezer fan slows down due to the refrigerator section being at the desired setting but the freezer section still needing coolant . If the refrig section needed more coolant , the fan would speed up , forcing more air into the refrig section .
After replacing the heater , it could be in the defrost cycle . The thermistors tell the main control board , " hey , we're freezing , turn on some heat " , in which the heater comes on and defrosts the coils , until behind the rear freezer panel , can get up to 140 degrees . As it gets this hot , the frozen food in the freezer , is what keeps the freezer cold . After defrost , the fan comes on and blows the residual heat into the refrig sectio , until the coils get cold again . So , if the refrig section warms up temporarily , it's normal .
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It sounds like you've done just about everything except to check if there is a bad or intermittent wire causing this or perhaps your low-pressure safety cutout switch is possible going bad causing the compressor to kick on and off?
when you first bought the heater even if it wasnt "red" as you say did you get heat from it? now those type of heaters are good when they work. First the heater has 2 settings say low and high now in low the wattage will turn some of the elements partly red the reason you dont see it is because it is fan forced heat on those type heaters which causes the elements to look like they are not red but they are on, only low will do this. Now high will cause all elements to get "red" even while the fan is running. If there is no heat someone needs to bypass switch to see if they work.process of iliminitation.Hope this helps for you.
The salesman at the hardware store should be able to confirm my answer.
Match up the voltage, wattage and thread size and you should be good.
My element burned out two years ago and aside from draining the water, the job only took a few minutes and I was back in service.
Check the control knobs, make sure they are not turned all the way on high. If not and you have ice building up on the panel below the one with the fan, you will need to go back inside where you replaced the fan and replace your defrost heaters also. It will be bast to replace the defrost thermostat while your in there. It only cost around $15.00 and will save you trouble later. You could see both of these parts behind the panel the fan is in. The heater in you model is a cal rod type, made of the same material that ele stove elements are made of. You can ohm it and if it has no resistance, it's bad. If it does then the defrost thermostat is the one bad.
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Actually, the dealer is somewhat correct. In the hotter months of the summer, the rooftop units have a tendency to freeze up if not run on high cool due to the lack of air movement across the evaporator. If the unit fines on High/Cool, then run it in that mode but adjust the thermostat.
It should not however, cycle on and off that fast unless you have a bad freeze switch or the incoming AC is too low. If during that 8-10 seconds, the air begins to get cold and then it shuts off, then I would say you have a bad freeze switch. If it runs fine on high, but shuts off in low, I would say it is a lack of air movement.
Usually short cycling means that High side pressure is getting to high (due to not working condenser fan, or dirty condenser coil), or low side pressure is getting too low (might have low level of freon or restriction in sealed system). low side would drop dramatically if indoor blower is not running, so if air is not circulating thru evaporator coil, coil will freeze up and low side would be much lower then normal. Here is video how I found issue with package AC not coming on. Thermostat call for cool, but condenser would not come on, indoor blower runs ok.
I have a Samsung Side by Side Refridgerator RS21 FCNS which has stopped cooling the fridge - the temp sticks on about 14deg. Yellow pages engineer came out and quoted a ghastly job and £350.
Called Samsung on 0845 726 7864 and they told me that the defrost heater is a design fault and that warranty on this component has been extended to 5 years. Someone coming tomorrow to fix it (for free).
The defrost heater and compressor can't operate at the same time unless the timer is bad. It disconnects the compressor and evap. fan during defrost cycle. Not sure what you call the "fuse", are you talking about the clip on disk that's on the evap. coil? If so that is the safety "fuse" as you call it to "open" and kill power to the heating element if the element gets the interior too hot. Usually water seeps in then freezes and pops the expoxy plug up thus breaking the normally closed power loop. If you have power going to the heating element (and it's hot, etc.) AND the fan/compressor is running then it has to be the defrost timer that's bad. There's just no way the heater element can be getting power at the same time the compressor is getting power unless that timer is bad (or a major short in some wiring somewhere). If you unplug the timer what effect does it have on your system? Let us know, this one sounds interesting...