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[Large view automatically opens to the Top view, of the Cooling Tube/Heatsink. In the two small views underneath, click on the Right small view.
This shows the Bottom view of the Cooling Tube. The square copper plate to the right, that has 4 'ears' on it, sits on top of the Processor.
The copper curved tube is the Cooling Tube. Slightly flattened copper tube sealed on both ends, and filled with Nitrogen. The finned rectangular object is the Heatsink.
The Cooling Tube metal plate absorbs heat from the Processor. In turn, the Cooling Tube absorbs heat from the small metal plate, and transfers it up to the finned Heatsink. The Heatsink absorbs the heat, then radiates it away with it's tall, thin fins.
Air flow from the Fan Assembly, helps carry heat away from the fins]
A magnified view would detail, 'Hills, Valleys, and Pitholes'. When the two parts are mated together Air Pockets are created. In this case air is an Insulator, not a Conductor.
Thermal Paste fills the above imperfections, and is an Excellent conductor of heat.
After time, and also repeated overheating; the Thermal Paste dries up. Looses it's thermal conductivity properties.
This, is what I believe is going on with your laptop.
Secondly; A Thermal Pad is a material that is impregnated with Thermal Paste. Carefully peel it off if used on the Processor. They're junk, and can't be reused anyway.
[Usually just 1 Inch by 1 Inch, and 1/16th inch thick ]
I use an old credit card (It's plastic), and scrape off as much of the old Thermal Paste, or Thermal Pad residue; that I can. (Wipe credit card off of paper towel, repeat scraping; paper towel, and so on)
Then follow with Q-tips dipped In Isopropyl Alcohol. (Rubbing alcohol) 91 percent or higher is best, but 70 percent will do. 50 percent = no IMHO, because it is now 50 percent Alcohol, and 50 percent Water.
CAUTION! Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE! Use in a WELL ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present.
If using an eraser on the end of a pencil, and not a solid eraser; refrain from letting the metal band of the pencil; touch the gold plated contact pins.
Rub across each pin, and up and down. BOTH sides. Use air to remove the eraser dust. If you have a can of compressed air for computers available, use it. If not air pressure from your mouth will be sufficient.
5) Also, Thermal Paste compound is used in-between the Processor, and the metal plate on the Cooling Tube. Thermal Paste dries up over time. Also due to overheating.
When it does it looses it's thermal conductivity properties.
It's used to fill very tiny imperfections, in the surface of the top of the Processor; and bottom of the metal Cooling Tube plate. Plus help transfer the heat from the Processor, TO the the metal Cooling Tube plate.
Suggestion is to also replace the Thermal Paste, while you have the computer apart for cleaning. I can guide you with this procedure.
6) The last thing, and I just noticed from looking at the Service Manual, (Page 125), is that a Voltage Converter Board is used.
That small board could go out, and cause what you are seeing also. It is HP part number; HP 152928-001. You can find it listed in the Illustrated Parts Catalog, on Page 82. It is listed as No.8,
1) If you are trying to play too intensive a game for it, the laptop will freeze up.
2) Most of the time, the fault can be attributed to the laptop is dirty inside. Also the Thermal Paste on the Processor may have dried up.
The Dell Studio 1735 Notebook PC, is just like a LOT of laptops. Draws the air in to cool the hardware components, from the Bottom.
The Fan Assembly draws air in from the air intake duct, on the bottom of the laptop. Now take a look at how close the bottom is, in relation to the hard flat surface it is sitting on. Pretty close.
This allows all kinds of \'Gunk\' to be \'inhaled\'. Dirt, dust, hair, lint, food crumbs, carpet deodorizer,....you name it.
The \'Gunk\' then coats the cooling components for the laptop. The cooling components are;
1) Cooling Tube: Copper tube sealed on both ends, and filled with Nitrogen. Has metal plates on it that sit on the Processor, and graphics chipset.
2) Heatsink: Rectangular finned object. One thin strip of metal, usually, and has Tall, Thin fins protruding from it.
3) Fan Assembly: Small multi-bladed fan in a D-shaped shroud.
The metal plates on the Processor, and graphics chipset; absorb heat from the two aforementioned two hardware components. Heat is then absorbed by the Cooling Tube.
The Cooling Tube absorbs the heat, then transfers it up to the finned Heatsink. The fins of the Heatsink radiate the heat away. The Fan Assembly blo-ws air through the fins of the Heatsink, and helps carry heat away.
When the Processor overheats it turns off. (BIOS turns it off) This is a fail safe feature that is built-in. Keeps the Processor from burning up. (Sometimes Literally!)
Processor overheats, and laptop starts freezing up.
The Fan Assembly could be bad also. The fan has to run at a certain RPM. (Revolutions per Minute) It cannot run intermittently either. Spin, slow down, then spin back up; or spin, stop, spin.
If so replace.
To clean the laptop yourself;
A) Recommend a ESD wrist strap, and connect it to a good ground source. (Electro Static Discharge) Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out (Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components, inside a laptop.
Wearing an ESD wrist strap, and having it\'s alligator clip attached to a good ground source; will alleviate Static electricity.
I connect to an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of an open, empty desktop computer. You can set a large metal serving tray, on the table you\'re working on, and connect to it. (Unpainted) Or a large metal knickknack. (Unpainted)
B) Use a multi-compartment container, for the various screws you will remove. Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of. SOME screws look VERY similar to other screws. Advise DO NOT mix them up!
C) Philips screwdriver, No.2, and set of cheap Jeweler\'s screwdrivers will help also. A Spudger Tool, or a thick guitar pick. Patience.
D) Use a can, or two of compressed air for computers. (I say two because while you are using the first one, it will freeze up. Set it down, allow it to warm up, then use can 2)
Also suggest Q-tips, and a small fine soft brush, (Makeup brush?) Use to \'stir\' the thick gunk a little, so it will be easier for the air to remove. (Good for where the fan\'s blades meet the Center Hub, and other tight places where heavy Gunk will accumulate)
FORTUNATELY for this model (Studo 1735), the Base Cover comes off. Cooling assembly is right there.
(Most laptops have to be disassembled from the top down, i.e., Switch Cover, Keyboard; remove Display Assembly, then Top Cover, (Palm Rest Cover), Harddrive, optical drive, Wireless antenna wires, then Motherboard. The Processor, and cooling assembly is on the Bottom of the motherboard)
(Suggest click on the image. Don\'t wait for the small image to \'clear up\')
May be two different Fan Assembly\'s also. Wanted you to be aware in case you have to replace the Fan Assembly.
In this example, the small metal plate that has the Tri setup for screw mounting; sits on the Processor.
Even though this model, is for Studio 1735\'s that do NOT have dedicated graphics, it is MHO that the smaller square metal plate at the end of the Cooling Tube; sits on a graphics chipset.
On top of the Processor is Thermal Paste. On top of the graphics chipset, is a small Thermal Pad. The Thermal Pad is material that is impregnated with Thermal Paste.
The Processor MAY also use a Thermal Pad, and not paste. The Thermal Paste is scraped off the best you can, with a plastic scraper. (DO NOT use metal) I use an old credit card.
[ You CANNOT reuse a Thermal Pad. The Processor, and Cooling Tube metal plate, have made an impression in it. Won\'t contact the same if you reuse. Also the Thermal Paste that is impregnated in it, can dry up. DO NOT reuse a Thermal Pad ]
A Thermal Pad is carefully peeled off. Then credit card scraper. Then use Q-tips dipped in Isopropyl Alcohol. (Rubbing alcohol) Don\'t worry about dripping, as the alcohol will evaporate.
91 percent is best, but 70 percent will do. 50 percent = No IMHO, because it is 50 percent Water, and 50 percent Alcohol. It will take a LOT of alcohol dipped Q-tips, and is usually a gooey mess. (Not that bad though)
CAUTION!! Isopropyl Alcohol is EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE! Use in a WELL ventilated area with NO sparks or flames present.
Clean the Top of the Processor, and top of the graphics chipset. Clean also the Bottom of the two metal plates of the Cooling Tube; which sit on them.
Don\'t know if you are familiar with Thermal compounds that use real Silver. VERY good thermal conductivity properties, BUT can be hazardous to the computer!
Silver is not only an excellent conductor of heat, but also of Electricity. Using too much will cause it to ooze off the top of the Processor, and down onto the Processor\'s contact pins, and any exposed solder joints on the motherboard; once the Processor reaches operating temperature.
Result is Short Circuit, and bye-bye motherboard, processor, and more.
Thermal Pad material? Make SURE you get the correct thickness.
Cut to fit.
I haven\'t read any Service Bulletins, nor have seen info about problems with the cooling, for the graphics chipset.
You didn't give us much detail but is the CPU fan running at all? This can also be caused by the lack of silicone heat-sink compound between heat-sink and cooling assembly.
Over-clocking can also cause thermal problems.
Your fan speeds up and slows down in response to temperature inside the computer. More so the CPU.
I would suggest getting a can of compressed air made for computers
Take it outside, take of the side and blow all the gunk out of there, Really go to town around the fan (you might want to wear eye protection) While you are in there just check that the CPU cooler itself is not loose
If it is it will have to be re-seated.
If it needs re-seating don't just take it off and put it back on as that might make things worse with your temperature problem they have to be cleaned and new thermal grease put on ($2-5)
DON'T remove the CPU just the fan/cooler assembly.
You must clean both the surfaces without scraping anything off. Use isopropynol alcohol and cotton bud sticks until both surfaces are clean, you can use your finger nail to scrape harder residue if you wish but nothing else.
DON'T pour the alcohol over the CPU
Now apply some new thermal grease (most computer shops have it)
Be careful about how much you put on
Here are some basic instructions Once you have re-assembled your cooler and re-connected it check everything is OK and power up the computer.
If everything went to plan you should now be back in business
Hope this gives you the information you need
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Hey there chandru 2020, the configuration problem which you are experiencing is related to the positioning of your ram in the appropriate slots. Servers work with matching pairs of ram, installed in either two, four or eight sticks of memory. The placement of less than a full set , in your case two minimum is also very specific. You should go to the Dell website to access configuration diagrams for your server model. Also check to ensure your ram is compatible, and try installing just one pair at a time. There is also a possibility that a blank may need to be inserted in empty dimms. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
Here is suggestion:
Disconnect the HDDs and other storage devices and then start your machine.
If this does not isolate your problem. Try changing the keyboard.
Hint: also make sure your motherboard is not touching the metal cabinet anywhere. If so it can cause serious damage to your system.