Question about Washing Machines
Check for 220-240 volts across the two hot legs on the outlet. A
voltage reading of 110-120 volts from hot to neutural is normal.
Confirm the cord is wired correctly at the dryer.
If so, then its really a matter of discovering where the voltage stops.
your problem could be your door switch.
When the door is open, the switch will provide a neutural to the light in the drum. When the door is closed, that switch chances, and provides a neutural to the timer. If the switch lets say has a burned contact on the common side, then neither will work. If the neutiral wire came off the common on the switch, then neither will work.
Check the switch first. You can use a voltage check on this, but checking a neutural can be tricky, I recommend removing the switch and ohming it out. Hold one lead on the common side. Do not actuate the switch and theck the normally closed contact (NC) you should read continuity. Acutate the switch and check the normally open side (NO), you should read continuity. If these checks reveal infinite, or "OL" on digital meters, or reads a otherwise high resistance, replace the switch.
if ur wiring and plug sockets are fine... then the fault Could only be a door switch, thermal safety or a thermal fuse.
Thermal fuses, or thermal cutoffs, are small electrical temperature sensitive ‘switches’ designed to interrupt electrical current flow when heated to their specific rated 'trip' temperature.
Unlike a thermostat, which automatically resets itself when the temperature drops, thermal fuses are more like their cousins, electrical fuses, another single-use type device that can’t be reset and must be replaced when it fails or is triggered.
The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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