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Murray Select 22'' 4hp is revving up and down

My Murray Select revs up and then down about every 5 seconds, changed spark plug and put in new gas, does not seem to have a chock adjustment. What else could be wrong?

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  • jagoin Sep 05, 2009

    I found where there are 2 springs attached to a lever, but i get no movement when i move the level back and forth. Is there a third spring I may be missing? I guess I need a diagram to see what should be there.

  • jagoin Sep 06, 2009

    I cleaned around the governor, recleaned the filter and it seems to be workin' fine right now. Thanks alot for your help.



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The carburetor is loose or a loose or broken gasket. Try cleaning the air filter and check the governor linkage the spring may have come off causing it to react this way. Look at the carburetor and you will see a rod that has a spring on it that controls the engine speed depending on power needs. If you need more help please post a response here.

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

  • Bruce Hathcock Sep 05, 2009

    See if your Governor works when you start the motor if the arm moves back and forth it is working however that does not mean the Governor is free on the block and it is what controls engine performance and cause it to do what your saying, so start it and see if the Governor is moving on the block going to the arm of the carburetor if not get back to me and I will see if I can get a diagram but need the model number.

  • Bruce Hathcock Sep 07, 2009

    Not a problem glad I could help,



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Mowing at mid throttle, suddenly the engine started over revving. Acts like governor isn't working. Every time I try to restart it instantly starts to over rev.

According to Amie Taylor on "Airflow Issues A lawnmower that hunts and surges may be experiencing something as simple as an airflow issue. If the air that the engine requires to run is blocked, especially sporadically, it can cause the engine to slow down. When the blockage moves or clears, the engine may suddenly rev up in response. To fix this type of problem, check the air filter to ensure that it's not clogged with dirt and debris. Check the vented gas cap as well. Both issues can cause reduced or sporadic air flow, and clearing them will fix the problem.
Spark Plug Problems Another problem that can cause revving and dying of a lawnmower engine is a faulty or poorly adjusted spark plug. Check the spark plug to see if the wire is connected to it firmly and not wobbling about. If it is connected correctly, remove the spark plug to see if it's covered with corrosion. If so, a simple scrubbing with a wire brush can restore it to working order. If necessary, replace the spark plug with a new one. Check the spark plug gap with a spark plug gauge to ensure that it's adjusted to the proper setting recommended in your owner's manual.
Carburetor Adjustment A carburetor that's incorrectly adjusted is a common cause of poor engine idling that results in hunting and surging. Fortunately, most lawnmowers have two screws that allow you to adjust the carburetor yourself. One screw controls the idle speed while the other adjusts the idle mixture. Check the manual if you're unsure of the location of the idle adjustment screws. Start the mower and allow it to run for 5 minutes. Then slowly adjust the screws tighter or looser in turn until the mower runs and idles smoothly.
Fuel Problems A particularly simple fix that can be at the bottom of many lawnmower idling problems is old or contaminated fuel. If the fuel has been left in the mower while it was stored over the winter or while the mower has remained unused, drain it and replace it with fresh fuel. If you have gas-powered blowers and trimmers that use a mixture of 2-cycle oil and gasoline, check to see that you've not placed that mixture in the lawnmower inadvertently."

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1 Answer

My 10685 is steady over revving. What would cause this? How do I fix/adjust?

Check the springs and brackets at the governer and you can bend the governer spring bracket to adjust the engine speed.

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1 Answer

How to change spark pluigs on 1997 mercury mountaineer

A Simple 5/8 deep socket( get a spark plug socket they work nicer) and get some extensions and a ratchet and some swivels. I like to use 3/8 size tools. Once in a while a 1/2 tools may be nice if a plug is not coming out. Next soak the plugs in the engine with some penetrating oil if they are giving you a hard time. dont use alot, just 2 seconds of spraying. Allow engine to cool off to air temp. This will allow thing to not burn you or for you to damage the soft threads in the aluminum head.

Changing plugs have not changed much on these vehicles than vehicles in the past. Just remove the spark plug boots carefully. Now you can remove each spark plug. Use the extensions and swivels in many combinations if one is not working easy enough. Always make sure you know what gap these plugs need to be and set them. Always use an Anti-seize lubricant on the threads of the spark plugs. This will prevent them from under torquing and getting stuck in the future. Put preferably new spark plug wires back on and use Dielectric grease to prevent the boots from sticking to the spark plugs and from moisture getting in between them.

The first 30 seconds or so of running may be rough if you decide to use penetrating oil to loosen the spark plugs. This is why you should us as little as needed. More oil makes for longer crap running time. Just let the engine idle on its own and clear it out on its own. Dont rev the engine or force anything until it warms up to normal operating temps. Cold engines and revving is not good for internal parts.

Good luck :)

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Lower gas millage related to transmission not dropping down (lowewr revs)?

I would get ride of it

No reason to even discuss all the possible issues

The trans sounds as though it is slipping

Not worth putting any money into,not at the kind of
mileage your putting on

Your better to lease a new one

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Pressure in the tank is normal, let it sit overnight if possible, turn the key on, but don't start the car, listen for the fuel pump to to on and then shut off this is normal, turn the key all the way off, then do it again, listen for the fuel pump to the same thing on then off, after doing that about three times then start the car like you normally do, if it starts ok, then one of you injector is leaking down or the check valve is bad. If you still have a problem look and see if you have any smoke coming out of the tailpipe. If is kinda blue, it could be your valve seals leaking oil down on your spark plugs. Did the old spark have a white looking ash on them?

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at

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My grang cherokee2002 us spec, while driving trnz changes fine but when cick down or full excelrate and RPM reaches 4.5 or 5 engine is loosing power and getting noisy and RPM not going more, while gear on...

You are hitting the rev limiter top range, which cuts off your ignition.

I have a 2001 Grand Cherokee and the problem drives me crazy, but it is the way the car is designed- as soon as you hit the rev limit, it shuts down ignition and your jeep will "buck" - a real pain when you are trying to accelerate into traffic!

You have the 4.0L straight six engine, yes?

If so, please take my advice and learn to live with the minor annoyance of the rev limiter- that engine is IMHO the best Chrysler ever made (nearly "bulletproof"!) and it was so reliable you cannot even get it in a jeep now! For decades, that engine was used in welders, tractors, generators...and yes, jeeps... and it is a favorite among mechanics for its durability!

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My mower surges. its a Murray, model number

first check to see if you have good clean gas in it. No water. if you have good clean gas. then I would recomend taking the gas tank off wich should have a plastic carburetor mounted to it. after that is removed and free of excess dirt. take the carb off there should be 5 phillips head screws. pull the carb off gently while observing just how it all goes back together. you may want to take pictures. you will find a fuel screen that you should take off and clean with carb spray. also there is a fuel pickup tube clean that also with carb spray. a couple words of caution if using compressed air Do not carried away with it. also same with the carb cleaner to much of it in rubber primers is not good.

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