Question about Slider 18K Select Plus Fifth Wheel Trailer Hitch with by Draw Tite, Reese and Hidden Hitch

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When I try to hook up my camper it takes a few tries before my hitch locks in place. i have to work & work on it before it latches.

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Lubricate the latch mechanism with lithium grease spray. Make sure the latch is fully open and the hitch is fully seated. If there is rearward pressure on the mechanism it won't latch.

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

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(1) Just bought a pop-up camper for my 2000 f250 super duty crew cab diesel. I'm a little nose up with it on board. (2) I also want to tow a 2-horse trailer and find with the camper on board...


Hello, The hitch extension is available I believe at Tractor Supply. It goes into the receiver just like the normal size receiver parts do and can be changed like current hitches. What you want is a drop hitch with an extension, or an extension that allows any type of hitch to be added to the end.

There are some hitches that have an adjustable drop end, but you will need to do some looking on the Web to find a 1 piece extension with an adjustable drop. You may have to buy a separate extension and plug in a drop hitch.

When you have a height problem between the towing vehicle and the load, sometimes you can change wheels or tire profiles on the trailer or camper to level the load.

Check out Draw-tite, Tractor Supply, and possibly Ranch-Hand products. There may be Hitch parts on sites for Construction trailer equipment.

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I am trying to obtain step by step instructions on how to dewinterize a 2010 rockwood roo 23ss camper. can you help?


1. If you removed yourbatteries, top off the water and give them a good charge and install them 2. Check all tires forcorrect inflation pressure. 3. Remove any coversthat you put on for storage. Make sure to get them all, especially if youcovered up the refcampererator or furnace vents. Replace the plug in your lowpoint drains and water heater. Check the water heater and refcampereratorcompartment area and clean out any spiders or critters. 4. Check for propaneleaks. Use a spray bottle of soapy water and make sure that there are no openflames or ignition sources. Turn on the main propane supply valve and carefullyspray soapy water on each and every fitting. Watch for soap bubbles forming atconnections that would indicate a leak. Wipe excess soapy water off with apaper towel. Don't forget to use your nose, if you find a leak or smell gas,turn that main valve off camperht away and get a propane service technician toinspect the camper. 5. Do a visualinspection of the interior and keep an eye open for telltale signs of leaks.Discolored ceilings or paneling near windows and vents may indicate a problem thatdeveloped during storage. Open cupboards and storage areas also and take a lookaround. 6. Take a careful lookat the outside of the camper. Make sure that everything is in place and in goodrepair. Open any storage compartments and have a look inside. Clean out any oldgear that you no longer need or use to make room for new toys and evict anyadditional unwelcome residents that may have found a new home last winter. 7. Take a close look atall hitch components. Look for any damage and replace any items that lookquestionable. Clean off old grease and re-lubricate the hitch componentsfollowing the manufacturer's recommendations. Go ahead and hitch up, plug inyour lights and test them. Remember to test those trailer brakes manuallybefore moving the camper down the road. A simple, non-technical test is toslowly pull the camper forward and manually apply the trailer brakes to bringthe camper to a stop. Sometimes electric brakes will grab fiercely at firstafter a long period of storage. This is caused by corrosion on the drum's innersurfaces. Grabby brakes should go away almost immediately, the first few timesyou apply the brakes should clear up the problem. If the problem persists, getthose brakes looked at before you take off on a trip! This may also be a goodtime to have those wheel hubs serviced and the brakes inspected for wear. Do ityourself, or have the local camper shop take care of it. Many campermanufacturers recommend servicing the hubs every 12,000 miles or once a year. 8. Next, check the plumbing.If you don't have fresh water available where your camper is stored, then youneed to move it. We need to flush out the plumbing system, especially if camperantifreeze was used. Hook up your water hose and fill your fresh water tank.Run your water pump and open each faucet in the camper one at a time and allowwater to flow for a minute or so. If you used antifreeze, let the water flowuntil all color and odor is gone. Also run water in the toilet and the showeruntil all the color is gone and the water is clear. Remember to open your graywater dump valve. Turn off the water pump and hook up your hose to thecity water inlet. Run some more water through the system to get that last bitof antifreeze out, then unhook the hose again. Be sure not to un-bypass thewater heater until you've flushed all the lines. 9. To put your bypassedwater heater back in service, reset the valves for normal operation and makesure that the drain plug is in or that the drain valve is closed. If you seewater running down the side of the camper, you may have left the drain plug outof the heater. Now run the water pump and open a hot water faucet. Oncethe water heater tank is full, shut all faucets and wait until the pump turnsoff. Listen for a few minutes to make sure that the pump does not cycle again.If the pump cycles on and off repeatedly, it may indicate a leak somewhere inyour fresh water plumbing. If a leak is suspected, take a flashlight andvisually inspect all the plumbing under your sinks and see if you can spot anyleaks. Look carefully in compartments and inside of cupboards and storage areasuntil you find the drip. Fix any leaks before continuing. 10. Next, sterilize yourfresh water tank and plumbing. Mix about a cup of plain household bleach in agallon of water. Pour this mixture into your fresh water tank and top it offwith the hose. Turn on the water pump and run each faucet until you can plainlysmell the chlorine. Top off the fresh water tank again and let the system setfor at least a few hours, longer is better. Then, drain the fresh water tankand refill with clean water. Flush the system out by running the clean waterthrough each faucet again. Use lots of water, until the chlorine smell is gone.This procedure will usually result in clean, odor free water in your camper. Ifyou have problems with lingering antifreeze taste or chlorine odor, you canre-flush the system using I cup of baking soda dissolved into 1 gallon of waterand follow the same procedure as above.

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1 Answer

I want to instal a Reese hitch on my 2000 ford f150 4x4 pickup to tow a popup camper that weights 1550 lbs what hitch should I purchase and what would the toung drop measurement be?


in my opinion ,why not install the biggest one so that you can tow anything in the future because the price difference in buying and installing is verry little. as far as the toung drop after your hitch is mounted on truck just measure camper heigth in comparisom to hitch receiver on truck and buy the correct one

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1 Answer

I have an early 90's Starcraft pop up camper. I just went to hook it up to the van and the travel lights (running, brakes, directionals) don't work at all. All lights worked when the camper was stored last...


When you say that you have power up to the camper, do you mean power through the pigtail/wiring harness with the tow vehicle connected?

The trailer harness wiring is the only way to power these exterior camper lights, i.e., through your vehicle. There are no fuses within the trailer for the exterior lights. These lights are only fused from the tow vehicle's fuse box. So either the connections in the trailer harness are open, or they're open at the tow vehicle connection.

Do the turn signals work on the tow vehicle? If yes, then the only other thing to check is the turn signal flasher in your tow vehicle. A heavy duty flasher is recommended.

From the trailer, yellow, white, brown, red, green, is connected to your vehicle backup, ground (frame), right turn signal, left turn signal, running lights, respectively.

The trailer's blue wire is for an electric brake connection to your vehicle.

The trailer's small black wire should connect to the vehicle's hot, 12V lead for the interior lights. The large black wire at the trailer hitch is for charging an RV battery on your trailer, if it's supplied with one. Of all of these wires, only the large, 12 gauge, black wire goes to the 25 amp converter, which is fused, for the inside lights of the camper.

I hope this helps.


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1 Answer

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As I recall, your Axiom has a Tow Rating of 5000 pounds -- but check your Owner's Manual to be sure. I have several friends who tow with their Isuzus (using 1st and 2nd Gen model Troopers and Rodeos) and pull pop-up campers, high-profile campers, ATV trailers, etc... There's even even one guy who pulls his Trail Rig (another Isusu) to various off-road events on an 18-foot tandem axle steel frame trailer -- All of them do so without any problem whatsoever. The thing is, all of them use a Load Distributing Hitch System, such as this: http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpages/hidden-hitch-weight-distributing-hitch-systems.htm It makes a HUGE difference. Hope this helps.

May 18, 2008 | 2007 Isuzu Axiom

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