The voltage input at the jack plug is correct but is zero at the battery terminals with battery disconnected hence the player only will perform if connected to the mains.
I have checked the soldered joints at the jack plug to board and all is OK.
I have checked continuity from jack plug to battery terminals + to + no continuity, jack plug to battery terminals + to - yes continuity, jack plug to battery terminals - to - continuity and - to + again continuity.
This is where the extent of my knowledge ends, could you please advise.
Thanking you in anticipation
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Your charging system is not working correctly. Unlike most other vehicles, the alternator in yours does not have a built in regulator circuit. Some troubleshooting must be done to find the defective component. Most of this can be done with the vehicle still assembled.
First, check that you don't have a blown fusible link. In most newer cars, these will be in the underhood fuse panel, and look like giant fuses. If good, you will read very nearly zero volts and zero ohms when measuring between the positive battery terminal and the alternator output terminal. If either measurement doesn't read zero, find the loose connection, bad wire, or blown fusible link.
Next, check the ground connections to the engine, battery, and car body to make sure you don't have a bad wire or connection somewhere. Again, measure voltage and resistance between the negative battery terminal and all associated grounding locations. For a quickie test, you can rig a jumper cable between the battery negative terminal and the alternator case. If there is a spark when you make the connection, you have a bad ground somewhere.
If your battery is well connected to the alternator, the problem may lie in the control circuit. Most Chrysler alternators have two control wires that control the field coil. Some control the battery current and have constant ground supplied, and some have battery voltage applied and control the ground current. To test, disconnect the control connector and measure the voltage of both terminals with the ignition in the "off" and "run" positions. Make a chart of each terminal and its corresponding voltage.
Start the vehicle and measure both terminals again. If the terminals tend to be zero volts, except when the vehicle runs you have voltage on one terminal, you have a system where the computer controls battery voltage. If the terminals tend to be 12 volts when the ignition is on, then one terminal goes low when the engine runs, the computer controls ground current. If the voltages of one terminal change but not the other, this suggests a bad computer.
To do a go/no go test of the alternator unit, you can connect the control pins on the alternator with the control connector disconnected. Simply connect jumper wires to the two control terminals of the alternator. Connect one jumper to a known good ground, leaving the other jumper loose. Connect a voltmeter to the battery terminals or to the output wire on the alternator. Start the vehicle and briefly connect the second jumper wire to the positive battery terminal while watching the voltmeter. While the jumpers are both connected, the battery voltage should rise dramatically.If it doesn't, this suggests a bad alternator.
If all this sounds too complicated or dangerous, a good mechanic can perform a similar diagnosis in under an hour with definite results. Good luck.
From your description, the car took a voltage spike. Some electrical components are very sensitive to this. Low battery voltage would cause this as well. Ensure that your charging system is working correctly by checking the output of the alternator with a multi-meter. Charging voltage should be around 13.5V with the car running. Verify that your battery is good as well. If all is found to be in good working order, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery and let the cars electrical system discharge completely by leaving disconnected for about 15-20 minutes with a door open. Connect your battery terminal ensuring that you do not arc it to the positive terminal. If this does not correct the instrument cluster, you may have a defective electrical component that requires further investigation. Hope it helps!
If you have a Volt-ohm meter you can check if the AC adapter for your laptop is giving out the correct voltage. Also if you have a meter and you can see that the voltage is correct on the adapter try taking out the battery and plugging in the ac adapter and test the battery connection on the computer for voltage, if do have voltage to the adapter but not the battery terminal it could be a motherboard issue. A quick question, is the ac jack loose or does the plug move around easily when plugged in?
Holding the switch does not always work. The problem is that the Garmin batteries wear out very quickly and if you don't charge them every few days they drain completely and the voltage drops to zero. The problem is the brilliant Garmin engineers designed the Nuvi 700s so that the charging circuit doesn't activate when you plug it in if the battHolding the switch does not always work. The problem is that the Garmin batteries wear out very quickly and if you don't charge them every few days they drain completely and the voltage drops to zero. The problem is the brilliant Garmin engineers designed the Nuvi 700s so that the charging circuit doesn't activate when you plug it in if the battery voltage is zero. See the Catch 22? Also, even if you replace the battery, if the new battery is not already charged, you are in the same boat!
I solved it by taking the Nuvi apart and zapping the battery with 5 volts across the red and black terminals. It's very difficult because the plug has tiny holes smaller than a typical pin. You have to be very careful too because the lithium polymer battery could catch on fire or explode! I used a very low current to lessen the chance of this. After doing this for about a minute and raising the battery voltage to about 3 volts, I plugged it back in, put it back together, and it was able to charge.
If your not getting enough voltage to the inverter it will beep to let you know you don't have enough power. Most common cause is a lose connection thru your cigarette lighter. Also if you turn your key off it might be shutting down power to your plug. Make sure you have a good connection with your battery or plug adapter. You also need a good battery so you don't go into a low voltage condition which will make your inverter beep.
you will get some funny answers from some of these "experts " The symptoms suggest to me with out much doubt that the regulator is not doing its job correctly ,consistently.Iwould take it to an AUTO ELECTRICIAN and get it tested in situ.... there is only 4 things it can be , wireing ---battery---alternator-----regulator and of those the reg. is the only one that chops and changes. it will cost little for a sparky to check the reg ,. AND I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW THE OUTCOME
Here is how you might check the polarity of a 7.5 volt DC replacement adapter:
Put the 5 batteries into the unit and verify operation. NOW using a DC voltmeter measure the voltage from battery negative and meter negative connected and meter positive to the pin on the power jack. IF you see 7.5 volts positive, then the pin is the positive lead for the adapter.
If you see zero, then continue testing.
With the 5 batteries inserted, connect the positive meter lead to the positive of the stack of batteries. Now touch the negative meter lead to the pin.
If there is 7.5 volts there, then the pin is the negative lead for the adapter.
READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY.
USUALLY the jack has a contact that disconnects the batteery when the plug with sleeve is inserted.. We are testing the jack without inserting a plug here so the plug should HAVE THE BATTERY VOLTAGE with correct polarity on the pin.
First suspect the battery. As I guide I have split the task into the following steps.
1. Get a voltmeter and test the battery. It should report 12.4 or 12.6 volts. Branded batteries frequently incorporate a battery status indicator in the form of a watch glass at the top. The color change indicates the battery condition.
2. Now connect the battery with the UPS leads securely and plug into AC mains (with electricty). Test the battery terminals for voltage. If voltage is between 13 to 14.5 volts then the charger is OK. If not then check if the fuse with the DC charger is blown. With the battery disconnected check voltage between leads. It should be zero (if it showed zero volts with battery connected). If not then the charger is faulty. Also if it shows 13 - 14.5 volts with battery connected and disconnected then it is OK.