My Kenmore S106 626636 Ice Maker is not producding ice.
I removed my ice maker in order to access the defrost drain pan on my top refrigerator freezer. When I re-installed the ice maker, it would make one tray of ice and stop due to the ejector arms not completely finishing their rotation. Some of the cubes were ejected into the bin down below but most remained onto of the ejectore arm. The metal wire on/off switch remained at the 4 O'clock position.
I disconnected the ice maker and removed it. When I assembled it again, the metal on/off switch moved to the 6 O''clock position and water filled the ice tray. When the cycle completed and the ice was ready to be ejected, the exact same defect occurred.
I seems strange that the icemaker was functioning fine until I disconnected it the first time.
Re: My Kenmore S106 626636 Ice Maker is not producding...
You probably have the back side of the I/M hitting the fill tube and pushing the white cup at the end of the I/M in some, which would put pressure on the arm and not let the arm fall down free during a cycle.
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Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. Since you did not mention any model number I will be responding in GENERIC terms. The procedure for a top mount freezer is different than a side by side. I am going to respond in the context of a top mount unit.
UNPLUG THE REFRIGERATOR
1. First remove ALL shelving in thefreezer compartment
2. Then remove the ice maker. There are 3 screws that have to be removed in the ice maker. The lower screw and then the 2 upper screws. Completely remove the lower screw and then loosen the (2) upper screws until you can lift the ice-maker over the key hole slot mount holes and remove it. The wiring harness for the icemaker is then disconnected by gripping the bulkhead connector top and bottom to release the locking tabs.
3. Now remove the light bulb cover by releasing the two lock tabs with your thumb and pivot the cover toward the remaining tabs. Unscrew the light bulb and remove the bulb.
4. If there is ice on the rear cover you MUST manually defrost the unit. I recommend that you use a floor fan for about 2 hours. This makes a water mess but if you do not defrost the unit you will break the plastic air ducting during the access panel removal process.
5. AFTER manual defrosting remove all of the rear access mounting screws and tilt the panel top first at an angle to remove the top panel. I usually stick my finger in the ice maker tube hole to begin the tilting.
6. If you have to completely remove the access panel to clear the drain you will have to release the bulkhead connector from the panel by unlatching the 2 locking tabs on the female connector.
NOTE. You must also remove the bottom REAR fiber cover to gain access to the end of the compartment drain tube.
7. Remove the fiber rear cover / compressor access.
8. Inspect the drain pan and tube END for debris. Over time the END of the drain tube will self block from evaporation. Clear the END of the drain tube and use a shop vac to clean the drain pan. (not easy to reach!)
9. Remove any lint and debris from condensor coil and fan while you in this area! (nothing sharp) __________________________________________________________________________________
10. Use a cable tie (spot / Zip tie) to clear the evaporator drain in the freezer section if it is still clogged. You can use a piece of house wire if necessary to clear the drain. DO NOT use anything sharp as it will puncture the drain tubing.
11. Pour about 1/2 cup of HOT water in the drain and check to see that you have the same amount of water now in the drain pan in the bottom of the unit.
Reassemble in reverse order steps 7 to 1. (read below first)
Just so you know often ice build up is a result of an automatic defrosting circuit problem. You should check the defrost heating element and defrost thermostat for continuity BEFORE reassembly. If you have continuity reassemble everything. If either the element of the thermostat do not have continuity replace the one with NO continuity. Reassemble steps 7 to 1.
You can still have a defective defrost control even after all of this. If ice starts to build up again in 3 to 4 days after doing all of the above most likely the defrost control / timer (depending on model) will need to be replaced.
This is a generic top mount response. The procedure for a side by side is similar. Only the ice maker removal process differs slightly and you should be able to figure out how to get it out. If you need advice just respond with your model number and I will locate a manual "on line" that you can use for the ice maker removal process.
The defrost drain tube is froze up. Unplug for 48 hours with the freezer door open or take the evaporator cover off the rear panel in the freezer section & defrost with a hair dryer being careful not to melt the plastic. Confirm the drain is draining by poring water through As you watch it go into the drain. pull the unit out & remove the cover off the back to access the drain pan. Make sure there is no junk in the end of the defrost drain where it goes into the drain pan.
Remove the ice maker and back panel in freezer.1/4 inch nut driver to remove screws. there are 3 screws for the ice maker 2 on the back wall and 2 on the bottom panel. Use a hair dryer to melt ice block.All water will flow down into drip pan under fridge. May overflow use a turkey baster to remove water from pan. Pour hot water onto drain until the water flows freely into the pan.
sounds like your fill tube is leaking
you should be able to pull it out from the back of the machine
to inspect it
if the fill tab on the tube is facing in any other direction than down it should be straight down
It is probably your defrost cycle causing this. Obviously if you shut the water line off then it is not coming from there so there is only 1 other place it could be. Every 8, 10, or 12 hours depending on you defrost timer the refrigerator will defrost itself.......the frost melts into water and drains into a pan under the fridge. If the drain is plugged then it will just run into the refrigerator. If you have a freezer on top model then just remove the back wall inside the freezer, it will be a few 1/4 inch screws....If you have an icemaker then remove that too, it will be held on with 3 screws. Just look behind that wall and you will probably see ice at the bottom.....defrost the ice and pour a cup or 2 of water into the drain to make sure it is unclogged. If it is still plugged up then you have to find the clog....either in the back of the fridge behind the lower cover or in the refrig compartment near the back of the roof.
I have the exact same Kenmore and exact same model #77292798. It's the top freezer model with ice maker. Here's what I did:
Empty everything in the freezer.
Turn water to ice maker off from source behind unit.
Remove bottom panel (two screws)
Every screw in the freezer is the exact same size. I used a screwdriver style socket and, I think
this works the best.
Remove ice maker (4 screws) and unplug from socket.
Remove rear panel (2 screws).
My freezer was loaded with ice underneath the bottom panel. The ice scraped away easily. There is a tin pan underneath the coils that drains toward the middle where the drain hole is. Again, my freezer was full of ice beneath this tin pan and, I had to scrape away. You may be tempted to try and remove the coil because it would be easier to get to drain hole. I tried this and, it did no good. Don't try it. Once all the ice was scraped away, I realized that the drain hole was plugged with ice. I used boiling hot water and used a squeeze bottle to pour the hot water into the drain hole. I then wrapped a paper towel around a thin screwdriver and used that to soak up the now cold water in the drain hole. After doing this a dozen times or so, the drain finally cleared.
Then, reassemble. This was a much easier task than I thought it would be and, will take care of it much quicker next time.