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Re: it tumbles - no heat and just keeps going and going
You either have a bad element or thermal fuse. Most likely a thermal fuse. You can access it by removing the back panel. If you find that it's the thermal fuse, you will need to replace the cycling thermostat also. When it goes out, the dryer then cycles off of the thermal fuse until it goes bad.
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Suspect vent still plugged with lint, leave vent disconnected and run dryer, stay within eyesight when doing this, if the dryer dries the clothes, then look for blockage in the vent pipe to the outside.
Check the wall plug voltage for the dryer outlet with a voltage meter. The two holes on opposite sides of the wall outlet should read around 240V. Either of the two outside holes to the middle hole shoul dread about 120V. If your readings differ from these it's likely you have a problem with the fuse/breaker associated with the dryer or the person who fixed your heat made a wiring mistake.
Hi, If the dryer heats but will not advance in either time or auto cycles, you need to change the timer. You can test to see if the timer is getting voltage. Remove the top rear panel and locate the two wires going to the timer motor. There should be 120V when the dryer is running in time dry. Please let me know if this helps or if I can assist you further.
I have a Maytag Atlantis Gas Dryer that will turn on, rotate, but will not get hot and dry the clothes. A load of clothes in the afternoon, didn’t dry, tried again but didn’t dry – went to bed after putting on auto dry - next morning the dryer was still rotating and didn’t turn off. No hot air – only cold air.
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.