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Can't control heat setting

Replaced heating coil (broken coil), high limit thermostat, thermal cutoff and internal bias thermostat. Except for the no heat setting, dryer is heating up to the point it blows the thermal fuse.

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Either your dryer vent is clogged, the blower wheel is striped out and not turning or the internal bias thermostat you bought is bad. These are the only things that can make the dryer over heat.
Please rate solution.

Posted on Sep 05, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Electric dryer getting way too hot


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3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS

To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.

The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.

The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.

In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.

3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES

These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.

Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.

A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)

A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.

Dec 01, 2013 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a kenmore gas dryer, the drum turns but no heat, I replaced the radiant sensor and the control thermostat but still no heat?


here is a partial list of componets that could cause the dryer to not heat
Ignitor
control t-stat
high limit t-stat
gas valve coils
thermal cutoff
thermal fuse
flame sensor
electronic control/or timer depending on your exact model
cycling t-stat
motor

Jul 23, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

My CDT40 is not heating when used and when I press the option lights, they flash once then go off


Check the bias thermostat on the blower wheel housing, thermal fuse, high limit thermostat, and heating element on the back of the machine for continuity with a multimeter. Replace any of the mentioned parts with new one form the parts list below. Below is a video to show you how to check for continuity. The dryer is a little different, but the principles are the same.

Bias Thermostat Thermal Fuse High Limit Thermostat Heating Element

Dec 30, 2010 | Hotpoint NBXR463EBWW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer shuts off before load is dry. it will not turn back on for about a half an hour. is this an easy fix?


Yes it is. It is more than likely your high limit thermostat. The high limit thermostat is located on the back of the dryer after the heating element, (right before the entrance into the drying chamber). They high limit and thermal cutoff usually come as a kit because they should be replaced at the same time. The thermal cutoff is located on or around the body of the heating element. good luck!

Apr 06, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

How many thermostats are there and where are they located?


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 9)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 8)
Thermal Fuse (Item 7)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

If you have any questions, or need further assistance, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Mar 21, 2010 | Whirlpool WED5700S Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I know which thermal unit is the one that shuts the dryer off when the clothes are dry? one's called a cycling thermostat, another is called a fixed thermostat and the third is called thermal...


Usually the Fixed Thermostat (also known as the High Limit Thermostat) and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) are used in conjunction to regulate and protect the heating circuits.

The Cycling Thermostat (also know as the Internal Bias) controls the amount of heat required/desired to dry your clothes.

You need to remove the rear panel of the dryer to access the heating circuits on this model dryer. With the back panel removed, the heating circuits will be on the right hand side and the blower fan assembly is located on the left. The Hi-Limit Thermostat and TCO are located on the outside of the heater box with the Hi-Limit Thermostat mounted next to the heating element terminals and the TCO located at the opposite end of the heater box. The Cycling Thermostat is located on the blower fan housing next the Thermal Fuse. It will be the metallic round component, while the Termal Fuse will be a white plastic component.

For better clarification, you can view an exploded view diagram of your appliance at pcappliancerepair.com. If you type in your model number, all the parts I've mentioned are listed under Section 3 (Bulkhead Parts). The components are listed as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit (both parts should be replaced at the same time).
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat (sold separately)
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Cycling (Internal Bias) Thermostat

If you are experiencing heating problems or longer dry times, please review the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the section that discusses dryer ventilation. The majority of dryer heat related problems and failures are attributed to poorly installed, clogged, or kinked dryer ventilation. If you haven't had the ducting checked in a while, now may be a good time to do so.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 10, 2009 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Does not heat as fast as it used to. Has to run for two cycles before it gets warm.


Check for a partially burnt heating element or a faulty high limit thermostat. The high limit thermostat is a round device mounted on a metal plate and is usually attached to the internal ductwork. Check the heating element for any sign of burning or broken wire. It can be tested using a multimeter or ohmmeter. Check for continuity. A lack of continuity indicates a bad heating element. The high limit thermostat can be checked in the same manner. It should have no continuity. I will attach a photo of a thermal cutoff and high limit thermostat for reference. Hope this helped and best wishes.

b008280.jpg

Sep 07, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

No heat,tumbles,but no heat. good cont. thru thermal fuse,no cont. thru thermostat internal bias? think that is my problem? Any thing else I should check? I get good cont. thru heat coil also. thanks mike


If the dryer runs, but does not heat, you need to check the Thermal Cut-out and Hi-limit thermostat. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The TCO and Hi-Limit Thermostat are mounted on the heater box near the heating element. Read through the info I provided and double check the continuity of these components. If either the TCO, or Hi-Limit thermostat are bad, replace them BOTH at the same time. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any replaced components. They are commonly sold as a set.

NOTE: The Thermal Fuse and Internal Bias Thermostat are located on the air blower housing. If the Thermal Fuse were bad, the dryer would not run at all. The Internal Bias thermostat may still cause heating problems, but is less likely. Replace it if you like, but I think you may have a TCO that has failed.

If there has been a failure of the heating circuits, I would recommend you do a thorough cleaning of the dryer exhaust ventilation ducting to ensure you have no clogs. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

May 05, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Clothes dryer not heating


I eventually changed the thermal cutoff switch and the high limit thermostat as suggested in one of your replies to another consumer and now the dryer is working fine. Thanks.

Nov 13, 2008 | Zanussi TC7114W Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Whirlpool Dryer Thermal Cutoff Wiring


the thermal cut off wires do not matter how you put them on.. The high limit is wired in series with the heating element.one red thick wire to element the wh/red top side of the high limit stat out of the high limit sat(other side) then goes to the other side of the heating element

Feb 20, 2008 | Dryers

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