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Can i use 30mm guide bush to cut worktop with a 1/4 router

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Yes you can. You probably would want to do some test cuts in the wood that you are using.
If your worktop is hardwood then each pass will have to be maximum 1/8". It will take many passes depending on the thickness of the worktop. This is assuming that a carbide bit is being used. The smaller the diameter of the bit the less resistance. Also using a 1/4" shank on the bit and the HP of the router determines how fast the router will cut.

Posted on Sep 07, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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What do I do if my router has 33mm guide bush but jig a want to use says I need a 30mm guide bush?


Look up 30mm router guide bushings on the web. Do a search. You'll find several sites that carry a 30 mm bushing.

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Makita template guide does not fit


My Makita router arrived with a couple of template guide bushes of different sizes. The size of guide bush chosen for use with a particular template will be dictated by the template - stock templates usually state the size of guide to be used with that template and mostly these are generally so common sizes a good router is supplied with them, from memory I think the smaller of my guides is something like 17 mm.

Template guide bushes are flimsy and easily damaged and so it is expected router users will be buying spares and other sizes. They are almost universal but not quite and router users are quite adept at minor modifications to make things fit, and not just guide bushes but also router tables, adaptors for various tasks and so forth.

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Need to replace a 185 mm blade with 15mm bore. All I can find is 16 mm bore blades. Does this mean buying a new saw?!


look for a bush, typically with a 30mm outer and any 30mm saw blade may then be used.

Nov 16, 2011 | Saws

1 Answer

This jigsaw seems to suffer from the same problem as its predecessor. Whenever i use it to cut through a kitchen worktop or any material it never gives a straight vertical cut through the material but...


I can't speak to the diffuculty you're having with that particular model, as I haven't used it. But in general, the stability of the cut depends upon the guide mechanism of the saw, and a three point guide is better than two point or single point. A three point guide assemble will hold the blade firmly locked when inserted into the column, will have a roller bearing that supports the center of the blade path, and will also have a finger pinching mechanism at the base near the material, so the blade can't waffle in the cut. Aside from changing saws, all I can recommend is that you make sure the base is correctly locked in place at an angle square to the blade, when fully extended. Check this with a small trysquare against the base, and look from both sides of the blade. Some folks will even attach an auxiliary base to stiffen theirs up, though this shouldn't be necessary. Then make sure you're using a sharp blade with the correct tooth count for the material you're cutting, and don't force the cut. Let the saw do the work, and make sure you hold the base firmly against the worktop as you cut. If you force a cut with the orbital action on full, you'll get more deflection.
Other than that, all I can say is that I've had good luck with the newer Bosch jigsaws, and the best cut I know of comes from the Festo, but we're talking serious dollars there.
Good luck.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Dec 19, 2010 | Hitachi CJ110MV D Handle Jigsaw

1 Answer

How do i get a nice finish on the end of my worktop using a worktop jig ?


i have this router and it is the nicest one i have ever used. setting up a jig take time and if you are only making a straight cut then put a straight edge along your top and clamp it down. you only need the distance from the roller on your bit to the back endge of the router fence. set the straight edge that distance from the front of your top. I suggest tryinng it on a scrap piece of wood to make sure the distance is exact and the profile being cut doesnt need adjusted

Dec 19, 2009 | Bosch Plunge Router

1 Answer

Fixing a franke sink


Turn sink upside down on paper/cardboard & trace around outside. . Measure from outer edge of unit to just beyond inner edge [where the clips fit] transfer this to cutout and mark/cut on this inner line. This is not your template to cut out the worktop.
Push the clips over the inner ridge on the underside until they click into place.on small cutouts make sure the worktop grips face outwards.
place into worktop cutout - most likely there will be some more worktop to trim to fit. When fitting easily, fit the seal on the underside where the sink fits into the worktop & screw up the clips until they bite into the underside of the worktop.
Not got the seal? use silicone [clear]


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1 Answer

Got a worx router,model wx15rt cannot find a 30mm guide bush


If you can't fabricate your own. Get a dedicated or universal sub base for the WX 15RT Router, this allows attachment of trend and other bush guides

Jul 24, 2009 | Tools & Hardware - Others

1 Answer

Need instructions to use Worktop jig


Screwfix were happy to send me a copy of the instructions for their jig which adapted perfectly.

Sep 29, 2008 | Tools & Hardware - Others

1 Answer

Put together


1 Chrome Rail (for attachment to Worktop)
4 Self-Tapping Screws (to attach chrome rail)
1 CO2 Cylinder Support Stand
1 CO2 Cylinder (empty)
1 CO2 Regulator (high/low pressure gauges)
1 CO2 Air Line Hose (red)
2 CO2 Air Line Hose Connectors (black)
1 Beer Keg Coupler
1 Beer Tower Unit (complete with faucet, hose and wing nut)
1 Rubber Washer (to be installed inside wing nut)
1 Beer Tower (Quick Connect) Bayonet Attachment (beer tower installation)
4 Machine Screws (to attach bayonet to beer tower)
1 Gasket (beer tower base)
1 Pull Handle (beer tower faucet)
1 Beer Keg Stand (required for 30 liter keg installations only)
1 Protective Plate (refrigerator cabinet floor)
2 Cantilever Wire Shelves (conversion to all refrigerator application)
1 Chill 'n Tap Exterior Cabinet Plug (located on worktop)
1 CO2 Air Line Hose Plug (located exterior rear cabinet)
1 Plastic Drip Tray (2 piece)

1. Remove Worktop: Using a Phillips Screwdriver, remove the
three screws located on the front underside edge of the
worktop and the three screws located at the rear (back)
side of the worktop.
See Fig's. 1 & 2
Remove the worktop from the cabinet and position the
worktop on top of the cabinet so that the front corners
are staggered across the front corners of the cabinet.
2. Installation of Top Rail: Attach the chrome rail to the work
top using four self-tapping screws from the underside of the
worktop through the pre-drilled holes. (attach the front ends
of the rail first)
3. Re-Install Wo r k t o p : Install the front of the worktop onto the
cabinet, then lower the rear side of the worktop over the
backside of the cabinet. Secure using the same screws
removed earlier. (the smaller screws at the front the larger
screws at the rear)
4. Installation of CO2 Cylinder Support: Install the cylinder
support onto the four studs located on the exterior back
wall of the cabinet. (no tools required) Align the holes in
the cylinder support with the studs and push down firmly.
See Fig. 3
5.
Installation of CO2 Cylinder: Install your " fully charged"
CO2 cylinder into the support stand. IMPORTANT NOTICE:
ALWAYS EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
HANDLING PRESSURIZED C02 CYLINDERS:
6. Installation of C02 Regulator:
Attach the CO2 Regulator to
the C02 cylinder by screwing the regulator nut onto cylinder
valve and tighten (snug) using an adjustable wrench.
7. Installation of C02 Air Line Hose to Regulator: Attach one
end of the (red) air line hose to the hose barb connection
on the CO2 regulator. Secure hose by using one of the two
(self locking) black plastic snap on clamps provided.
(use pliers to snap the clamp tight to assure that there are
no leaks)
See Fig. 5
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5


CHI
1. Remove Worktop: Using a Phillips Screwdriver, remove the
three screws located on the front underside edge of the
worktop and the three screws located at the rear (back)
side of the worktop.
See Fig's. 1 & 2
Remove the worktop from the cabinet and position the
worktop on top of the cabinet so that the front corners
are staggered across the front corners of the cabinet.
2. Installation of Top Rail: Attach the chrome rail to the work
top using four self-tapping screws from the underside of the
worktop through the pre-drilled holes. (attach the front ends
of the rail first)
3. Re-Install Wo r k t o p : Install the front of the worktop onto the
cabinet, then lower the rear side of the worktop over the
backside of the cabinet. Secure using the same screws
removed earlier. (the smaller screws at the front the larger
screws at the rear)
4. Installation of CO2 Cylinder Support: Install the cylinder
support onto the four studs located on the exterior back
wall of the cabinet. (no tools required) Align the holes in
the cylinder support with the studs and push down firmly.
See Fig. 3
5. Installation of CO2 Cylinder: Install your " fully charged"
CO2 cylinder into the support stand. IMPORTANT NOTICE:
ALWAYS EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN
HANDLING PRESSURIZED C02 CYLINDERS:
6. Installation of C02 Regulator: Attach the CO2 Regulator to
the C02 cylinder by screwing the regulator nut onto cylinder
valve and tighten (snug) using an adjustable wrench.
7. Installation of C02 Air Line Hose to Regulator: Attach one
end of the (red) air line hose to the hose barb connection
on the CO2 regulator. Secure hose by using one of the two
(self locking) black plastic snap on clamps provided.
(use pliers to snap the clamp tight to assure that there are
no leaks)
See Fig. 5
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 4
Fig. 5
LL'N TAP ACCESSORIES (included with this unit)

Jan 07, 2008 | Danby DKC646BLS Full Size / Pony Beer Keg...

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