Question about LG Washing Machines

3 Answers

LG Tromm WM2277HS Washing Machine won't drain, rinse or spin!!

Yesterday I attempted to wash sheets and after the wash cycle an ''OE'' error code displayed on the control panel. Before I could open the door to the washer, I had to turn the machine off so the door would no longer be locked. When I grabbed the sheets, they were completely SOAKED. My washing machine would not drain the excess water from the wash cycle, which is why I assume the rinse cycle will not begin. I opened the lower left panel at the bottom of the unit, drained the water and removed the linens from the machine. I then checked around the rubber seal and found a TON of mold and gunk, trapped due to improper drainage. I have soaked, scoured, cleaned and re-cleaned every component I can find that could be hindering the drainage function and STILL my washer won't drain. PLEASE HELP!!!

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  • katjm1112 Sep 04, 2009

    I have already cleaned the filter at the bottom left corner of the machine

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3 Answers

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  • Master
  • 11,896 Answers

Either the drain is plugged, or the pump or selector switch is faulty.

copy and paste this link in your address bar. It will have all the troubleshooting and repair tips you will need:

http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-repair-a-washing-machine.htm

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

  • 13 more comments 
  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 04, 2009

    Servicing Washing Machine Switches and Timers


    Unlike a toaster,
    which performs the exact same function over and over, washing machines
    run through elaborate cycles with multiple settings. The devices that
    control these cycles can occasionally fail. Here's how to repair some
    of the common switches and timers.

    Servicing the Lid Switch

    The
    lid switch on a washer often serves as a safety switch. If the switch
    is not working, or if the switch opening in the lid is clogged with
    detergent, the machine will not run. To check and repair the lid switch:

    Step 1:
    Unplug the machine. Clean out the lid switch port with a wood manicure
    stick or chopstick. Clean off any detergent buildup around the rim of
    the lid. Sometimes there's enough detergent encrusted on the metal to
    prevent the lid from closing tightly and keep the washer from operating.

    Step 2:
    If cleaning doesn't help, remove the top of the cabinet to get at the
    switch. With the switch exposed, check the screws for looseness. Loose
    screws can cause the switch to move when the lid is closed or as the
    machine goes through its cycles. Check the terminals of the switch to
    make sure they're tight. Tighten the mounting screws after the switch
    is in alignment.
    Step 3: Test the switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale; procedures for using the VOM are detailed here.
    Disconnect the power leads to the switch terminals and clip one probe
    of the VOM to each terminal. Close the lid of the washer. If the meter
    reads zero, the switch is working. If not, the switch is faulty and
    should be replaced.Step 4:
    If necessary, replace the lid switch with a new one of the same type.
    Connect the new switch in exactly the same way the old one was
    connected.
    Step 5: If the
    switch still doesn't work, it is probably misaligned. Realign the
    switch by repositioning the screws holding it in place, testing the
    switch as you go until it works properly.

    Servicing the Temperature Selector Switch
    This
    control panel switch regulates the temperature of the water in the tub.
    It also plays a role in controlling the fill cycle. If you suspect this
    switch is faulty, remove it and take it to a professional service
    person for testing (the test takes special equipment). Or, hook a test
    wire across the switch terminals; if water flows, the switch is faulty.
    If the switch is faulty, replace it with a new one of the same type.
    Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.

    If
    there's a problem with both water temperature and tub filling cycles,
    both the temperature switch and the timer may be faulty. Test both
    components and replace them as necessary. Procedures for testing the
    timer can be found below.

    Servicing the Water Level Control Switch

    This
    is another control panel switch, usually located next to the
    temperature switch. There is a small hose connected to this switch, and
    sometimes this hose becomes loose and falls off the connection. When
    this happens, the water in the tub usually overflows. To solve this
    problem, cut about 1/2 inch off the end of the hose and use a push fit to reconnect it to the switch.

    The
    switch itself can also malfunction, resulting in tub overflow and other
    water-level trouble in the tub. If you suspect this switch is faulty,
    remove it by backing out the screws holding it in place. Take it to a
    professional service person for testing. If the switch is faulty,
    replace it with a new one of the same size and type. Connect the new
    switch the same way the old one was connected.

    Servicing the Timer

    Most
    washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls
    most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and
    emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this
    reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by a professional
    service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when
    you suspect the timer is faulty -- you may be able to install a new
    timer yourself.

    Step 1:
    Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and
    the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or
    access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully
    examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the
    washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into
    position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use
    long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections -- never pull
    a wire by hand.

    Step 2:
    To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power
    leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM
    should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple
    switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in
    turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more
    readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.
    Step 3:
    To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new
    timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many
    wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old
    one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting
    each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections
    are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before
    removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the
    connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into
    place.


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 04, 2009

    Servicing the Water Pump

    Of
    all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most
    punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you
    can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a
    failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here's what you can do to
    fix the problem:







    ©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
    Take the pump apart and clean
    away all debris inside the pump.
    Also clear away debris from
    the water tubes.

    Step 1:
    Check the drain hoses to make sure they are draining properly. Remove
    the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nosed
    pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer
    or from the hoses themselves. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then replace
    them and reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or doesn't
    drain, examine the pump.

    Step 2:
    To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the
    machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy
    blanket or pad to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service
    panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but
    with the unit tipped on its front it's easier to remove the pump
    through the back than through the bottom of the washer.

    Step 3:
    Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or
    strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the
    clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down
    the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to
    loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the
    connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections,
    straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the
    machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the
    machine still doesn't drain, you'll have to remove the water pump.

    Step 4:
    To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and
    move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor
    out of the way and unbolt the pump; it's usually held by two or three
    hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen
    the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the
    pump out of the washer.

    Step 5:
    You should take the pump apart if you can, because the trouble could be
    lint, dirt, or pieces of cloth or paper clogging the pump impeller.
    Clean away all debris inside the pump and clear any debris out of the
    water tubes. Then reassemble the pump. Hook up the pump again and test
    it. If cleaning the pump doesn't put it back into working order, or if
    the pump housing can't be removed, replace the pump with a new one of
    the same kind.

    Step 6:
    To install the new pump, set it into position and connect the mounting
    bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten
    the drive belt on the motor by prying it taut with a hammer handle or
    pry bar; it should give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.

    Step 7: Reconnect the hoses leading to the pump.


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 05, 2009

    Servicing the Timer

    Most
    washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls
    most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and
    emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this
    reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by a professional
    service person. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when
    you suspect the timer is faulty -- you may be able to install a new
    timer yourself.

    Step 1:
    Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and
    the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or
    access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully
    examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the
    washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into
    position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use
    long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections -- never pull
    a wire by hand.

    Step 2:
    To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power
    leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM
    should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple
    switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in
    turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more
    readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced.
    Step 3:
    To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new
    timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many
    wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old
    one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting
    each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections
    are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before
    removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the
    connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into
    place.
    In the next section, we will examine two of the most
    crucial elements of a washing machine -- the water inlet valves and the
    agitator.

    Servicing the Water Pump

    Of
    all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most
    punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you
    can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a
    failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here's what you can do to
    fix the problem:








    ©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
    Take the pump apart and clean
    away all debris inside the pump.
    Also clear away debris from
    the water tubes.

    Step 1:
    Check the drain hoses to make sure they are draining properly. Remove
    the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nosed
    pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer
    or from the hoses themselves. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then replace
    them and reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or doesn't
    drain, examine the pump.

    Step 2:
    To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the
    machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy
    blanket or pad to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service
    panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but
    with the unit tipped on its front it's easier to remove the pump
    through the back than through the bottom of the washer.

    Step 3:
    Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or
    strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the
    clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down
    the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to
    loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the
    connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections,
    straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the
    machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the
    machine still doesn't drain, you'll have to remove the water pump.

    Step 4:
    To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and
    move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor
    out of the way and unbolt the pump; it's usually held by two or three
    hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen
    the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the
    pump out of the washer.

    Step 5:
    You should take the pump apart if you can, because the trouble could be
    lint, dirt, or pieces of cloth or paper clogging the pump impeller.
    Clean away all debris inside the pump and clear any debris out of the
    water tubes. Then reassemble the pump. Hook up the pump again and test
    it. If cleaning the pump doesn't put it back into working order, or if
    the pump housing can't be removed, replace the pump with a new one of
    the same kind.

    Step 6:
    To install the new pump, set it into position and connect the mounting
    bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten
    the drive belt on the motor by prying it taut with a hammer handle or
    pry bar; it should give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.

    Step 7: Reconnect the hoses leading to the pump.





  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 09, 2009

    You can try using a wetvac in the drain. Or try draino in the rinse drain cycle. I washer refuses to drain and everything is clear. Then the pump is bad.



  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 10, 2009

    I would also test the lid switch. This could cause this type of problem. From other forums you can read user experience ratings with this machine. You can see that others have the similar problems.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 25, 2009

    Most likely the pump is faulty. Check selector switch first.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Sep 28, 2009

    If motor is running, and pump is not rinsing or draining, then there is a clog in the drain. If drain is cleaned and the system is still not draining, then the pump or bearings could be faulty.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Oct 10, 2009

    http://www.applianceaid.com/maytag-dryer...

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Oct 12, 2009

    on the front lower left there is a panel. Pry it open from the top.
    Unscrew the large black round cap. Be prepared for water to rush out.
    There is a trap to clean out. To the left there is a rubber hose with a
    plug in the end. Remove plug and see if hose is clogged. Clean it out.
    Replace and it should run. If not, try blowing through the discharge
    hose in the back to make sure all is clear.

    An OE error, usually refers to drain plugged or faulty pump.



    LG washing machine error code – OE
    The LG error code OE simply means “the pump is blocked”.
    Presumably the water isn’t being emptied properly. As with all
    error codes it is possible that there is a cause other than the exact
    description in the error code explanation.



  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jan 16, 2010

    on the front lower left there is a panel. Pry it open from the top. Unscrew the large black round cap. Be prepared for water to rush out. There is a trap to clean out. To the left there is a rubber hose with a plug in the end. Remove plug and see if hose is clogged. Clean it out. Replace and it should run. If not, try blowing through the discharge hose in the back to make sure all is clear.



    You probably need to clean the drain plug at the bottom of the machine



    OE error on an LG machine is not draining. Probably something stuck in the pump or pump impellor broken off.

  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 11, 2010

    After the drain is cleared, and/or component is replaced, the machine needs to be on for a while, then turned off, then unplugged, then wait a while, press and hold power/start button for 5 full long seconds, then wait a bit more before plugging it back in.
    Now the machine should be reset.
    Usually shuting if off, then unplugging it, press and hold buttons, wait a bit, plug back in and resetting the machine usually works as long as pump and motor aren't faulty and drains and traps are cleared.


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 13, 2010

    You can get your entire service manual for your machine here:

    http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.ph...


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Mar 13, 2010

    Most likely pump trap is clogged up. Access it
    behind small door at front. Drain water out through small hose that is
    there otherwise water will be all over the floor when you unscrew the
    trap




  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Apr 30, 2010

    If the machine does not operate at all, then the door switch could be faulty.
    If the machine works properly but does not drain, then either the drain or drain screen could be plugged.
    A loose, faulty, or jammed pump can also cause this.
    Let me know if there is any other information you need and I will be more than glad to help you fix your problem


  • Nate Stansfield
    Nate Stansfield Jul 11, 2010




    An OE error presents if the washing machine has
    not successfully drained the water in ten minutes. However, the OE
    error code does not always mean that the washer requires a service call.
    If periodic maintenance has not been performed on the washer, there are
    a few simple steps to take before calling for service.




















    LED display models

    LCD Display Models







    Step 1: Check the drain pump filter.




    Step 3: Confirm that the washer is
    leveled properly.








    Items caught in
    the drain filter will prevent proper drainage. Over time build up can
    occur from detergents and additives used in the machine. Manually drain
    unit through the drain hose, then lay a towel down to catch the water,
    and remove the filter. Clean the filter thoroughly and restart the
    machine.




    If the unit is not
    leveled properly, it will not drain properly. The front of the unit
    cannot be higher than the back or vice versa. If not properly leveled,
    the water can flow back into the machine. If this is the cause of the
    problem, please level the machine using the supplied leveling wrench.
    When you place a LEVEL on the washing machine, the bubble should be in
    the center. Confrim that the washer is leveled from side to side and
    front to back.






















    Step 2: Check the washers drain
    hose.














    If the drain hose
    is not installed properly, the washer will not drain properly. The drain
    hose should not be installed more than 1 meter higher than the bottom
    of the washing machine.




    NOTE:
    Perform a diagonal test when leveling the washing machine to
    ensure that the unit does not tilt from corner to corner.

































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  • 5,081 Answers

This may be obvious but have you cleaned the filter that precedes the pump? Open the small access panel on the bottom left ( front of the washer) and twist out the filter trap.. clean all debris.. and the little bit of water that trickles out onto your floor.. Hope that helps...

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

  • INDIRA KUMAR
    INDIRA KUMAR Sep 04, 2009

    Check the drain pump,some models have a little coin trap ,do you see a square opening on the front panel?
    If so pry open and bleed the remaining water out (smaller hose) then check inside to see if anything binding the impeller?
    Check drain hose outlet,if one time thing and you were washing something abnormal like bath mats etc rubber backing couldve plugged up the pump and had a slow drain,if all that checks out you may need to access the drain pump and have a look ,tilt machine back they usually have an open bottom,pump usually in the lf corner


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  • 15,935 Answers

CLICK HERE
Thanks!!
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Posted on Aug 09, 2010

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Presumably the water isn’t being emptied properly.

As with all error codes it is possible that there is a cause other than the exact description in the error code explanation.
And from your original post, I see that you have checked the drain pipe and the pump filter..

Those are the only 2 things I would of asked you to check aswell.

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Hope that Helped
Please Rate Me
George

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