I need to know how to take the vertical grid/screen out of the second bay (inset about 1 & 1/2 inches) so that I may install a 1/2 height combo CD/DVD drive. It is an older e machine case that has different components installed. I have no manual, the person who built it is out of town.
I did look on the e machine web site, but they required a s.n. & model number, which I obviously do not have.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: e machine case
Not sure what model you have but on mine I had to take off the front plastic off. Then rock the metal grid back and fourth till the metal tabs on the end broke off. You can use a dremel tool if you want to be fancy about it.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I am a technician for brother printers. Yes it is your drum unit that is printing the grid on the unit. go our web site www dot tonerconcepts dot com and place an order for a drum from us. The drum your machine uses is the DR520/620 Our online price is $120.00 with free shipping
To answer your concern, all you have to do is to change the setting of your aspect ratio on your TV.
Here is my suggested way to procede:
1. Apply 1080i signal, which should produce an oversized HD image on ColorStream1or 2. 2. Select an HD channel that is broadcasting standard 4:3 image, not wide screen. 3. Switch to the Service Mode ( Please refer to the above links). In the Service mode, press channel up/down to find the Adjustment parameters needed for the following steps.
4. Adjust HIT with volume up/down control for the image height to 22.5 inches.
6. Adjust WID for image width of 30 inches, (22.5*4/3) 7. Adjust HPOS to center the image. 8. Adjust PARA and TRAP to minimize geometric distortion. 9. Switch into Convergence mode and Adjust VLIN to get equally spaced horizontal grid lines. 10. Measure the length of the central grid lines and note the number of horizontal and vertical grid lines. This information is used to create an overlay grid. 11. Create the overlay grid on 40x25 x0.003 inch clear Acetate sheet, which you can get at the Art Supply store for under $2. Draw the grid with a fine line erasable pen. Draw vertical and horizontal lines through the center of the sheet so that the lengths are the same as the central grid lines. Now draw the grid so that it has the same number of lines as the convergence grid but are equally spaced, with the outer ones at the ends of the central lines. 12. Cut off about 1/4 inch from the right side of the sheet so that the sheet can lay flat against the screen, which is slightly less than 40 inches. 13. Put a reference mark on the TV frame 2.5 inches down from the upper left side of the screen. 14. Place the overlay on the screen so that the upper edge lines up with the reference mark. The overlay sticks by electrostatic attraction. 15. Use convergence controls to remove grid distortion and converge grid colors. Refer to the Anamorphic link for details. 16. Enjoy 1080i.
Other Comments: I didn't realize I could create the overlay grid before placing the Acetate sheet on the TV screen, until I finished drawing the grid with the sheet placed on the screen. I added grid lines as called for in the procedure. I'm sure this method took much longer no only to draw the lines but some of them were difficult to see.
Part way through the convergence procedure, I became concerned that the image width was off since I did my screen adjustment with wide screen image. Thus, I decided to repeat that step with a 4:3 screen.
I confirmed the need to press 7 often to save results since after I adjusted one grid color without it, I accidentally hit a key that switched me out of convergence mode and when I switched back, all settings were gone.
Another mistake I made was not realizing that the cursor color determines which grid gets moved.
Printer DPI and PPI Ratings, General
Dots per inch stands for the maximum number of tiny spots of ink that the printer can place in a straight line where the spots are theoretically small enough (i.e. ignoring spreading or smearing effects of ink on paper) that if placed in every other such dot position leaving white space between them, the spots can be individually distinguished.
Pixels per inch stands for the maximum number of unique positions in a straight line that the printer can place an ink spot under control from the outside world, namely from a computer connected to the printer.
Lines per inch stands for how close thin parallel lines can be printed and still be distinguished in the finished printout. The spaces between the lines count as "lines".
Pixels per inch and dots per inch originally referred to the same thing. The printer mechanism was under the direct control of the computer and was physically positioned and placed dots as directed by the computer. Back then, most printer mechanisms were limited to placing dots only in positions suggested by a grid of dots X per inch horizontally and Y per inch vertically, for example 100x100 dpi
Nowadays, many printers put dots "wherever they want" as opposed to in positions suggestive of a horizontal/vertical grid. Still there is a minimum dot size and a minimum dot spacing.
A picture file (image file) represents pixels in a uniform horizontal/vertical grid pattern. And the printer needs to make a finished picture of the size, say 5x7 inches, that the user chose regardless of the number of pixels in the picture file. To simplify the process of relating the pixel count in the picture file to the possibly non-uniformly spaced dots on the paper, the printer or its supporting software may generate a temporary intermediate picture file with a set number of pixels per inch. The printer may have, internally, several choices of ratio of pixels to dots and the published rating can be the largest ratio except that the published rating may not exceed the dpi rating. Therefore there might be three "per inch" values involved at a given time, the pixels of the original picture file, the pixels per inch that the printer works with, and the dots per inch of the printer mechanism.
Pixels per inch is usually not mentioned with printers. All printers come with their own software (including parts called drivers) to install on your computer. Usually the software does not let you exercise control over individual dots using your picture file. Rather the printer takes your picture file or data file and uses its own built in logic to lay down the dots and create the printed output. We are led to believe that a printer's ppi is usually a fraction such as a half or a third of its dpi rating.
When a temporary picture file is created, there are at least two levels of software in use. High level software (which may run in your computer) takes your picture file and creates the temporary file. Low level software runs in the printer, takes the temporary file and controls the dot size and dot placement on the paper.
Sometimes a printer is advertised using a phrase such as "300 dpi 1200 dpi quality". This means that the printer has some way of making dark edges on a light background appear smoother than the first number would otherwise suggest. A printer with 300 dpi 1200 dpi quality definitely cannot resolve alternating dark and light pixels less than 1/300'th inch each. But curved and diagonal lines and color boundaries should not have jagged edges suggesting individual dots rigidly positioned on a grid with a 1/300'th inch pitch.
This screen sounds like the charge corona grid. The grid is about 1 inch wide and a foot or so long. If so then it came out of the drum cartridge. If you look at the top of the drum cartridge, there is kind of a chrome metal bar with plastic "blocks" at either end. This is the charge corona assembly and that is where the grid fell off.
You can try to install it or as you suggested you can just replace the drum cartridge.
Good Luck and Thank You for using Fixya.
If this is a metal screen kind of chrome in color then it sounds like the charge corona grid. This is a part of the drum unit. If it came from your old drum unit then I would not worry about it. If you are installing a new drum unit then I would go ahead and install it and test the machine. Should be ok.
There are two display modes newly added for the DiMAGE 7i, grid and scale.
The grid mode is to show a grid over the entire screen. This makes it easy to align the camera to objects vertically or horizontally. In the scale display mode, horizontal and vertical lines cross at the image center to divide the view to four sections, and each axis is scaled. This function is useful for close-up photography.
The grid or scale on display is not recorded.